My 80 got towed home...

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Oct 26, 2019
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The fusible link have 2 link. AM1 ( Black wire) is for the starter. AM2 ( White wire ) is the ignition system, which included ignition coil system, injector and power to the ecu.
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
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Oregon
Some 93s had a bad ECU. They revised it later on. I have ecus if you need one.
Well I replaced the ignition switch and no luck. If you have an ecu, I would much appreciate one. Pm me a price when you have time? I do PayPal or?
 
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Messages
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The fusible link have 2 link. AM1 ( Black wire) is for the starter. AM2 ( White wire ) is the ignition system, which included ignition coil system, injector and power to the ecu.
Grey plug has 12v, as well as both other links. I'm down to a bad ecu I guess.?
 
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Oct 19, 2014
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454
 
Do you have 12v at the ECU-IG fuse with key in ON position? If you don't its not the ECU, possibly a wiring harness issue.
 
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Do you have 12v at the ECU-IG fuse with key in ON position? If you don't its not the ECU, possibly a wiring harness issue.
I do not have 12v at ecu-cig. Ugh. I have another engine harness, but what a bitch to switch out, and it very well could be in the dash harness?
 
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Oct 19, 2014
Messages
454
 
I would trace the wires and try to find the damaged wire before replacing the whole harness. I don't think that particular circuit is part of the engine harness.
 
Joined
Oct 26, 2019
Messages
106
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Garden Grove
if you dont have power to the 7.5 amp fuse Ecu-ign, i don't think is the engine harness. Check to see if you have power to the Black-Red wire at the igntion wire.
Igntion.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
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Location
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I would trace the wires and try to find the damaged wire before replacing the whole harness. I don't think that particular circuit is part of the engine harness.
Thats what I was thinking. This is gonna suck. Thanks for your time.
 
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Messages
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Oregon
Update for anyone thats not bored with my problems yet...
After changing the ignition switch, I now have 12v at 15a efi main underhood, changed out efi relay underhood, changed out 50a ami relay underhood, 15a ecu-ig in dash has 12v, 7.5a ign in dash has 12v, swapped to a 94 ecu, and still no engine light when key is in run position, no vroom.
I've checked all the main harness connectors that I can get to. After lunch I guess I start testing wires. Its hard to believe a wire just severed while I was driving down the road, but im at a loss right now. The saga continues...
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
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Oregon
It runs, finally, and for a weird reason.
I read an unrelated post about the AFM (I think that's what it's called, correct me if I'm wrong) creating a no start issue but would let the engine start for a second when unplugged.
I unplugged my afm, and when I turned the key to the run position I had a CEL light finally! It would start for a second then die.
I then removed the afm, and cut the top off like I've seen in other posts, and I found a bit of metal that was crossing two of the connector posts.

20200502_202015.jpg
 
Joined
Nov 16, 2019
Messages
23
Location
Oregon
It runs, finally, and for a weird reason.
I read an unrelated post about the AFM (I think that's what it's called, correct me if I'm wrong) creating a no start issue but would let the engine start for a second when unplugged.
I unplugged my afm, and when I turned the key to the run position I had a CEL light finally! It would start for a second then die.
I then removed the afm, and cut the top off like I've seen in other posts, and I found a bit of metal that was crossing two of the connector posts.

View attachment 2293507
The other two bits were laying in the bottom of the housing. It looks like they were soldered to the board under the connector posts. I reassembled and to my surprise it runs great. I may need a new afm at some point, but I'm not chasing wires! Thanks to all of you that helped me out. I learned a ton about the electrical system in my rig. Thanks.
 
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