My 75 Pig - Look and See

[75PIG]

Thought I would put this out there to see what you all thought. Was on vacation last week --- still recovering -- fried like a lobster -- just getting back to working on the Pig. Found a new windshield from Toyota -- need to order the rubber gasket from SOR yet. As you can see -- still needs work. I think the Pig is a beauty.

Got some "running" problems. Currently have a Weber 32/34 on it -- loaned from a friend. Burns rich as can be. Took off the vacuum line since it tended to advance it too far (plugged carb port). Set timing w/o vacuum advance right on the beebee -- Is that correct? I also tried my 72 FJ40 carb on it but it seems to fight the vacuum advance distributor. I also seem to have some exhaust leaks on cylinders 2345. Do I probaly have intake leaks too.

I guy on EBay had the same intake manifold up for sale and said it was perfect for higher performance -- I think it is to a 69 since it came with a 69 carb (March 69 through Sept 69) -- as can see -- I have a header too -- not sure if it is homemade or what. I took off the smog stuff and replaced with a 3/8 inch ball bearing and put the cap back on -- thought that was a pretty good temporay fix -- maybe permanent.

It came with the 69 carburetor - I rebuilt but could not get it running right so put on the Weber -- She has the vacuum advance distributor and no condensor --- hook up to the ignitor pack on the coil to reduce voltage and not fry the points -- according to SOR.

Compression in engine is good -- about 145 psi across the board.

It only had one fuel line hooked up since the 69 carb did not have a return. Could that be part of her problem with running so rich? The plugs fowl -- Even when I put the 72 carb on. Do I want to keep the header -- take a look at the studs -- what probalems am I going to have when I take these out -- what is the best method w/o snapping them off.

Interested in what you guys think --

See attached pics -- If I attached them correctely. How do you place them into the text?

75Pig

 

[Lucy_FJ55]

75PIG-

Great looking piggie! Are those brand-spankin' new lower fenders (right and left)?!? It seems as though you know a bit more about your rig's machanicals then I do so I can not help you there. I can say congratulations and have fun with your rig, though. Thanks for sharing.

 

[bull]

75PIG nice rig..


Where are you located? I see WA plates. I have a 85 intake and exhaust that should work on a 2F. Is your engine an F or 2F?

 

[ranger]

Looks like a 2F by the valve cover and head.

 

[RHINO]

nice piggy man!! the more you put into it the sweeter it gets.


the 32/36 is smaller than the factory 2F carb. the "BB" on the flywheel is 7* BTDC.

 

[MiniPigg]

nice pig.

 

[clemson55]

Congrats man good to have you on the board.

 

[bitfreak420]

sweet looking pig, same color as mine. You need blinkers though, get to drillin' those nice fenders...

 

[Pighead]

Dude,
That is the Toyota Hi-Po long runner intake manifold. Good find!

 

[75PIG]

75PIG-

Great looking piggie! Are those brand-spankin' new lower fenders (right and left)?!? It seems as though you know a bit more about your rig's machanicals then I do so I can not help you there. I can say congratulations and have fun with your rig, though. Thanks for sharing.

Lucy 55

Yep -- New fenders --- both -- holes are already in them but I need to replace the attaching "threaded metal post" for them. Lenses and shell are in good shape -- The previous owner was not so gentle when he "twisted" them off. Ouch!

75Pig

 

[75PIG]

Bull, Ranger, Rhino and Pighead

Yep -- it is a 2F.

I'm located in Richland, WA --- The rig was in Yakima and then Ellensberg before it ended up here. Not much rust but some. Desert country -- I got fried this week up at Lake Chelan but had fun in the sun. I am in the Seattle area frequently due to 14 and 11 year old boys that play soccer. Won't be driving the FJ55 till I get it running a bit smoother and less rich (literally -- cost a fortune to drive to Seattle the way it is).

Need to understand which intake/exhaust/carb is best. Pighead said I have the Toyota Hi Performance intake so now need to know which carb would be best to put on her -- Plus I think I have the vacuum advance distributor -- it advances if I apply suction. Can the "dial" on the distributor for advance or retard get screwed up or does it reset when it is "zeroed" out (can somebody keep turning the dial and "wack" octane dial so that it doesn't work correctly).

Is there a "carb" guy out there? Any suggestinons on carbs -- SOR suggested the non-USA carb to go with the vacuum advance distributor -- plus don't need the smog stuff -- currently. Its timed, just not burning completely -- I know it has got to be a "simple" fix. I'm just not smart enough yet to figure it out.

I have the air cleaner for a 75 but I don't think it will line up with this Hi Perfornce Intake manifold in place -- when I placed my 72 carb on it was offset by about quarter to half inch short.

Appreciated the input -- keep it coming if you got time.

75Pig

 

[75PIG]

sweet looking pig, same color as mine. You need blinkers though, get to drillin' those nice fenders...

bitfreak

Which color -- white -- red -- or black or all of the above ---

I will go for Red and White when I am finished.

75Pig

 

[RUSH55]

Well, I don't know too much about Webers, but there should be air/fuel mixture screws to set.
But first you need to make sure your points are set right. I don't know how the adjuster knob works, but that should be in any Land Cruiser manual. By your picture, the diz looks like a vacume retard diapragm as opposed to an advance or advance/retard. It only has the port on the top of the diaphragm housing, right? When you put suction to it, does it move away from the diaphragm housing? If so, that's vacume retard, which is emmissions, in which case you should leave it unhooked and just plug the carb's vacume port.
Then you said you timed it to where the BB was perfectle lined up with the pointer? Try setting the BB about 1/2" (half) to 3/4" (three-quarters) before or below the pointer. This will advance it a couple of degrees. When that's done, then adjust your air/fuel mixture screws on the carb, then the idle screw. There are manuals on Webers as well. Be sure you have no vacume leaks. Tighten your manifold nuts/bolts, carb bolts. Are you sure all of your gaskets are good? Are all of your vacume hoses good, and ports plugged off? Has the carb been rebuilt? Does it have all the gaskets and seals it needs? Are your points new and is your dwell set between, what is it, 32 and 40?
There's a hundred little things to take into consideration, but these engines will run even when everything's waaaay out of whack. I had my timing so far advanced, that the BB didn't even show in the window, and a vacume leak the size of a nickel - ran like s***, but was able to drive about 100 miles going 55-60 mph.

 

[snailwagon]

The mysterious hi-po manifold. Ended up on some 1968 and 1969 models. Wacky toyoda thinking they can compete with muscle cars, just to learn 35 years later that they can. I was told those are interchangable between the f/2f, but then again I've never been up close to a 2f.

I think you need a fuel pressure regulator for your weber. I've refused to run them due to their reputation, but people with good results run very low pressure. Adding a return line would take a new tank or modifications to your current single outlet tank

 

[RHINO]

wacky you say??? back in the day there were a couple guys playing with and running straight six engines on the 1/4 mile, ran so good they outlawed the class for a while. also right now are a couple guys running a car called IGOR, i believe its naturally apsirated, no turbo,blower ect. they run 7's in the 1/4 mile.

were not going to do anything like that in a cruiser, but it sure gives you something to think about.


that weber you have is a 32/36, it must be horribly bad to be running that rich as it is a fair bit smaller than the stock 2bbl carb. i think the best carb to put on there would be TBI, or a stock rebuilt and tuned carb. i dont know about the non US carb, for less money JIM C could build a stocker to run great.

 

[madoc1]

yo! great find. we have 38/38 weber with a return line and love it. dont need a pressure regulator, but most people do recomend a reg. set at about 3pds. cheap at most parts stores(about 25$)

just a memory. used to be a guy, i think they called him hands for obvious reasons that ran a really fast 6cyl. for the time . this in the late fifties/ early 60s at the dragstrip oss the gulf freeway in houston. wow that was fun.


jim

 

[cruiserbrett]

I would find a 74 ish carb. you will need a clamp style airhorn(F engine only) carb inorder to use the 69 vintage manifold, since as you discovered it doesnt locate the carb properly for the 2F air cleaner.

you will need to find/make the return line for the carb if you go with the 74 carb.

Cool piggie. Looks clean!

 

[75PIG]

Well, I don't know too much about Webers, but there should be air/fuel mixture screws to set.
But first you need to make sure your points are set right. I don't know how the adjuster knob works, but that should be in any Land Cruiser manual. By your picture, the diz looks like a vacume retard diapragm as opposed to an advance or advance/retard. It only has the port on the top of the diaphragm housing, right? When you put suction to it, does it move away from the diaphragm housing? If so, that's vacume retard, which is emmissions, in which case you should leave it unhooked and just plug the carb's vacume port.
Then you said you timed it to where the BB was perfectle lined up with the pointer? Try setting the BB about 1/2" (half) to 3/4" (three-quarters) before or below the pointer. This will advance it a couple of degrees. When that's done, then adjust your air/fuel mixture screws on the carb, then the idle screw. There are manuals on Webers as well. Be sure you have no vacume leaks. Tighten your manifold nuts/bolts, carb bolts. Are you sure all of your gaskets are good? Are all of your vacume hoses good, and ports plugged off? Has the carb been rebuilt? Does it have all the gaskets and seals it needs? Are your points new and is your dwell set between, what is it, 32 and 40?
There's a hundred little things to take into consideration, but these engines will run even when everything's waaaay out of whack. I had my timing so far advanced, that the BB didn't even show in the window, and a vacume leak the size of a nickel - ran like s***, but was able to drive about 100 miles going 55-60 mph.

Rush55

Thanks for the advice. Will start working through the list such as advance it a couple of degrees. The dwell is supposed to be between 39 to 43 degrees -- the Pig is at 41 currently and points look fine -- I think they are Bosch.

I do have a return line by the fuel pump that has been plugged -- I may hook up a line to the Weber to see if that helps. The book I have on the Weber says that you don't mess with the idle set screw -- instead you put in a jet that reduces the flow -- of course I don't have one so will try the return line first.

As you said many things that could be wrong -- just need to keep cranking down on the possibilities.

Regarding the diz, SOR thought it was vacuum advance (old ambulance type landcruiser distributor) -- I thought they told me that if the vent is in front of the diaphram (towards fan) then vacuum advance, if behind the diaphram, towards firewal, then vacuum retard --- I don't know but when I hooked up the 72 carb and 69 carb it continuously advanced the engine -- pulled bb down below site window -- Weber does too when I hook it up.

More pictures to show you guys the 69 carb that it came with --- of course it did not line up with the 75 air cleaner either --- plus the carb is short and squatty. The idle selenoid was not hooked up when I ran it --- would that go to the positive side of the coil? for juice?

 

[75PIG]

I'm gonna try the return flow fuel line since the return line is plugged with a bolt and clamp near the fuel pump. See new pics on 69 carb.

Thanks

 

[75PIG]

Will try the return line