Builds My 66 FJ45 Build Up (1 Viewer)

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Bench vise or even a hole in the frame will work. A map gas or propane torch helps, so does a length of pipe to increase leverage. If you need to put multiple bends in a short section, make a few small cuts, weld and smooth when you are done.
 
I've read where some guys have tried bending them without heat and have broken them. I just fear I would become a member of that group...lol.
 
On my 65 I fabed up a short spacer to mount a small Geo Metro brake booster away from the firewall so I didn’t have to cut the firewall bracket...


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This worked great for a few years. Once I swapped in the 3FE there was no room for the booster as it was mounted. So I stole the design of the early bronco and fabricated a new bracket with a change of direction.



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I know guys that have run discs without a booster but I prefer the feel of boosted brakes.

Cool project. I like your tranny hump fabrication. Looking forward to seeing the results.
 
I love any 45 build, will be following keenly. Will you run the H55 crossmember?
 
On my 65 I fabed up a short spacer to mount a small Geo Metro brake booster away from the firewall so I didn’t have to cut the firewall bracket...


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This worked great for a few years. Once I swapped in the 3FE there was no room for the booster as it was mounted. So I stole the design of the early bronco and fabricated a new bracket with a change of direction.



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I know guys that have run discs without a booster but I prefer the feel of boosted brakes.

Cool project. I like your tranny hump fabrication. Looking forward to seeing the results.
Thanx! Now, that is one slick way to put a booster in! I'm curious, how does it actually work with a bend like that? Would you have any of the measurements/designs/drawings from the mount that you made? I do have an MR2 booster that I had purchased and thought I was going to abandon it and go with just the MC.
 
I love any 45 build, will be following keenly. Will you run the H55 crossmember?
I have thought about using a H55 cross member, but I don't plan on wheeling this thing at all. Maybe some light trails and that'd be about it. Plus those cross members are hard to come by and pricey....lol!
 
Thanx! Now, that is one slick way to put a booster in! I'm curious, how does it actually work with a bend like that? Would you have any of the measurements/designs/drawings from the mount that you made? I do have an MR2 booster that I had purchased and thought I was going to abandon it and go with just the MC.

I’ll take a look at what I have. I know I “thought” about a separate thread on the booster bracket but don’t think I ever did it. I won’t booger up your thread anymore but will post a link or PM you the details once I have some more info.
 
I got the shifter all sorted out. Took it to a local machine shop and put in the press. It decreased the angle quite a bit and I'm pretty happy with where it is now. It probably gained a good 6 inches upwards. I'll post some pics later on.
 
Some more progress today: I got the fuel tank in place. I just have to clean up some things, add some weatherstripping along the straps, and start thinking of a skid plate. How thick on one of those do you guys think?

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Obviously I’m taking these pics while it’s dark...lol.

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I don't know whey all the pictures are sideways....I'll take some better ones tomorrow in the light.
 
Can you post a picture from the rear? I've been looking at this option for a fuel tank and there aren't a lot of good write ups on it.
Interested in what you come up with for a skid plate too.
Here’s a few shots of the rear.

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I used 1/8” by 1 1/2” flat bar stock for the straps. I followed the contours of the tank when I did my bends.
I used a jack and a piece of 4x4 to lift the tank about where I thought it should be. Once I had it in place I cut a piece of angle iron for the rear cross member. I was using a 5 ft piece of stock for each strap. The first strap is the hardest one to shape because your test fitting where bends should be. It actually wasn’t that bad to shape. The other strap was bent using the first one as a template. The top two pieces are separate from the bottom. I set those a little lower below the factory cross member in order to give the sending unit a little more clearance from the truck bed. When I bought the tank I got the factory straps along with it. I ended up removing those threaded rods/brackets and attaching them to my straps. It just worked out nicely for that part. The tank I used is for an 83 S-10 Blazer and it’s matching sending unit/pick-up. I got them from Rock Auto. Part number on the tank is GM18A, GM18B is for fuel injection I believe.
I think for the skid plate I’m going to follow the paths of the straps somehow....any other suggestions I welcome!
 
I cleaned up some cracks in the bed as well as unnecessary holes drilled all over the place. One side down and one to go.

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