my 60 has rust here, here, and here. oh and over there... (1 Viewer)

Kon

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Sep 21, 2005
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Perth, Western Australia
 
 
hey
this is my BJ61 cruiser down here in oz. iv owned her for over a year now and decided she'll treat me better when i treat her better. time has come to get rid of the rust, and there's a fair bit! i was tempted to farm out the rust cut but i think i'll be more thorough. As you can see in the following pics, the roof rust is pretty superficial, just some surface rust thats been half stopped by PO. the wheel arches and tailgate are pretty serious and will need a fair bit of attention.
i am open to all ideas, from mild to wild. (sorry!) i am pretty deft with the welder but havent really got much knowledge with auto bodies... I have read "wheel arches gone wild" and that seems like the best idea so far. So any and all knowlegde, experience, products, how-to's, photo's, links and even constructive abuse is more than welcome.
whole roof rust small.jpg
wheel arch rust close up small.JPG
tailgate rust close up 1 small.jpg
 
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Mar 1, 2005
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any more pics? I would just get someone to sand blast your hole truck, acetone it down, and spray bomb it army green, I think thats the cheapest best way to do it. If you are going for a more showroom look you will need a real paint sprayer etc. Then you just touch up spots as needed, and even though you don't go through alot of salt CDN winters, go get that old girl oiled, it will slow that rust right down!
 

crushers

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the rust doesn't look too bad.
ion the back tail gate measure for a replacement bottom 3" and get it bent up at a metal place.
the roof looks like a good sanding and you should be good to go, except where the patch looks like it was welded in.
the rear quarters lip is the biggest PITA, ask anyone that has done this work. time consuming and frustrating.

love the front bumper and side bars...
cheers
 

brownbear

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I agree , por-15 everything, the whole truck. sandblasting the roof woulf be best, then por.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=52541&highlight=bj60+repaint

thats what I am doing now. they make ok panels you can weld in. or glue on, with removal of all the rust and por'd.

you can DIY sandblast and por, then have a prof' do the final spray if you care about smooth paint.

Rocker panel rust can be cut out and a square tube installed. I like that look. Afterwards put some rhino liner on it and you have semi rock sliders. At least non denting rockers......
 
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GD fender flares, probably caused some of that wheel well rot, keep them well greased/ or oiled. From the pics your truck looks really nice, a little body work and she will be mint again.

cheers
Eric
 
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Edmonton, AB
 
Whatever you do do NOT sand blast the whole truck or major portions of it. This will lead to a very wavy panel from the impact of the sand particles. In essence it stretches the metal. On large unsupported areas like the huge roof of a 61 or door panels and especially the hood it is very important. Blast on the edges, bottom of doors, inside of pickup boxes, fender lips, etc. Basically anywhere the metal is bent or creased.

If you want to blast, use media blasting - usually walnut shells or something similar. This will remove the paint and rust without damaging the metal.

If you just want to remove the paint, maybe try one of the chemical strippers. If there are major rust holes, cut it out.

If you sand blast the hood, you will never get is smooth again. And you will see it every time you drive your Cruiser.

-Kevin
 

crushers

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yes and no,
if you are carefull and hold the nossle away from the metal there is little chance of warpage. it is the heat generated by sand blasting that worps the metal.
i have sand blasted dozens of hoods and door as well as complete bodies. i have gotten over zealous and in too much of a hurry and warped a couple.
what you are giving is VERY GOOD ADVICE but you can do the task if you are careful.
 

brownbear

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sandblasting can also work the metal in the same way as using a hammer and dolly. so its the hitting action of the sand not so much the heat issue. IMOP.

when you are sandblasting pic a medium grit. and just whip over the areas. If you are going with POR-15 then you don't need to get rid of it all. Infact this stuff sticks better to rough rusty surfaces.

then chemical clean as per their instructions and paint when dry.

The first thing to go on should be the por, then do any filler as needed. afterwards use a tie coat primer and top coats.
the por will fill a rough surface and make it appear smooth. I used 80 grit on my painted areas, this smoothed over quite well.

so for your roof you could get a decent air sander and go at it with 80 grit quite good. then marine clean and metal ready as you will have bare spots.
also clean really well before you sand. don't want to drive any impurites too deep.

I have applied many tough chem resistence aircraft paints and none seem as tough as por. hows that for an advertising. I beleave if you get a cruiser cleaned up really good and use por you will really slow down any rust that may reform.

Hey I gotta beleave that I spent 400 on that damm stuff!
 
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Edmonton, AB
 
crushers said:
yes and no,
if you are carefull and hold the nossle away from the metal there is little chance of warpage. it is the heat generated by sand blasting that worps the metal.
i have sand blasted dozens of hoods and door as well as complete bodies. i have gotten over zealous and in too much of a hurry and warped a couple.
what you are giving is VERY GOOD ADVICE but you can do the task if you are careful.
Well, yes, it can be done, but Kon indicated that he had little knowledge with autobody work. It would be a shame to see someone sand blast a door panel and not have the skill or knowledge to shrink the metal back to where it should be.

And Brownbear, I think you nailed it with the theory about the hammer/dolly effect. My years working in a body shop has shown me that this is the case. Sand blasting will heat the metal no more that a hair dryer or a hot sunny day. The gun itself can get pretty hot from the friction of the sand running through it, though.

-kevin
 

crushers

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Technikev said:
Well, yes, it can be done, but Kon indicated that he had little knowledge with autobody work. It would be a shame to see someone sand blast a door panel and not have the skill or knowledge to shrink the metal back to where it should be.

And Brownbear, I think you nailed it with the theory about the hammer/dolly effect. My years working in a body shop has shown me that this is the case. Sand blasting will heat the metal no more that a hair dryer or a hot sunny day. The gun itself can get pretty hot from the friction of the sand running through it, though.

-kevin
i sit corrected. i was taught it was the heat of the sand blasting that warped the metal and that was why you used plastic beeding for fine work.
now i know better,
thanks.
 
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I guess we all do some learnin' here. A day without learning something... blah, blah, blah and all that. :cool:

Kon: Remember to not be in a hurry. Preparation work is most important. Don't be in a rush to spray the paint and you will be happy with the result. Good luck with your project.

-Kevin
 

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