Builds My 40 build (1 Viewer)

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Since I went with fuel injection I was thinking about changing the alternator. Looking a the CS130 that fits the 92 Dodge Monaco. Almost a bolt on mod. With the new alternator I feel like the stock amp gauge should be changed. It will be a volt gauge now. So with a little research I found the autometer 2391 gauge set should fit with minor modification in the stock 40 housings. Just need to remove the 40 gauge faces and modify them slightly to bolt onto the autometer gauges. A bit of grinding on the original 40 housings and everything should fit. When 12 volts is applied to the amp gauge the needle should be close to the middle mark on the gauge face. That's how it should work.
 
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I did the CS130 on mine. Picked up a 140amp version online. Minor removal of some of the casing ear and of course you know about bypassing the ammeter. Definitely worth it for the extra power you get.

I'm interested on how you do the gauges.
 
Changing the gauges faces was easy. Measured the 40 gauge needles where they were on the faces. Then I measured the autometer gauges. I wanted the height of the needles to be similar to the 40. After measuring a few times I put the autometer gauge face on top of the 40 face. Using the autometer face as a template I drilled holes where the screws went. I inserted screws into these holes so everything is secure on my wood block. This held the gauge faces so I could enlarge the bottom of the 40 face. Using a utility knife I cut the 40 face duplicating the autometer face pattern. My cutting of the face is a bit crude but everything clears and works good. Before removing the original gauges I marked the housing where they set. After installed the new gauges into the cluster housing I measured and they are down about 5/32". Marked to back of the housing with my dykem blue (black marker) layout fluid. Now to use a carbide bit in the diegrinder to enlarge the holes. After thats done i will assemble everything to see how it looks. If everything looks good I will paint the neeldes florescent orange. Will need to make a new harness to mate into the original 40 harness. A couple different thoughts, paint the -30 & +30 off of the amp gauge face leaving the bar or use another oil pressure face then it would have L & H markings. Probably using the oil pressure face would be best.
 
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Here's the original autometer face infront of the 40 oil pressure. Looks like the green area would be in between the 2 marks. Put a little green sticker there and it's almost original.
 
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They gauges are just setting in the housing. Need to find a thin piece of plastic to shim the gauges out a bit.
 
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Used the plastic grommets from extra brackets that was included in the kit. With a little more filing of the holes the grommets fit perfect. Did not need to cut any plastic. All the gauges are mounted and ready to use after the needles are painted. Still debating about changing the amp/volt face. Thinking if it had L & H with a green area would be better. Also looking at changing the fuel gauge because the sending units I have are bad. The universal sending units looks like they will bolt on without modifications. Now to find a matching fuel gauge.
 
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I ended up just using a volt gauge. Left the others alone but freshener up the needles. At some point I'll get a volt label.
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That looks awesome. Great job.
 
Spent about 20 minutes this evening before heading to work bending up a bracket for the computer using Downeys drawing. Tried to install it. Drawing says 14" but my box is only 13" wide. So I cut about 1" off. Thinking about bending a new plate 13" and bolting it to the sides.
 
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Spent about 20 minutes this evening before heading to work bending up a bracket for the computer using Downeys drawing. Tried to install it. Drawing says 14" but my box is only 13" wide. So I cut about 1" off. Thinking about bending a new plate 13" and bolting it to the sides.

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I'm a dummy. What are you using a computer for in your 40
 
While my engine is still apart I have been thinking about the cam gear. First gear I have has 225K, second gear 100K and the third one is unknown. All have the rubber in them. So we decided that it should be replaced. The options were, aftermarket all steel, from Toyota are the composite and the steel/rubber insert gears. With all the harmonics that the steel gear transmits I was not wanting that. Then the decision was between the factory gears. Composite gear is probably the best but we went with the steel/rubber insert. No more that it will be driven it should outlast me by years. Naturally it was the highest priced one.
 
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Today I mounted several different tbi's on the intake manifold. This fit the best after a slight clearance issue was fixed. One I installed only opened the throttle blade half way.
 
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Spent a couple hours fixing the PO mess. The wheel openings and bottom of the rockers were cut off. The flares were mounted horribly. Bent some sheetmetal that extends to the bottom of the fenders. Remounted the flares. Now to weld up 64 holes that have been drilled in the quarters.
 
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Picked up some 5% moly grease for the birfs. Found some powdered graphite at my local ag dealer. Will put a cup or so in all the gear boxes and diffs.
 
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Picked up this used NOS passenger fender a while back. It has been installed, set outside a long time but never on the road. Only need a nice drivers fender and rain gutter to be 99% rust free.

Painted the cluster bezel a granite gray then gloss clear over that. Not close to the original color but looks ok with the custom mixed blue paint.....maybe. Will clean the ash tray and glovebox lid and paint them the same. Been thinking about the gauges. Have a 74 up cluster that I might install. Will experiment a bit. Since the 72 has turn signal indicators in the dash I was thinking about moving them into the 74 speedo. Now there would be both indicators free. The left turn indicator would be the SES light for the fuel injection. The right turn would be empty but maybe saved for something later. Then there is still another hole in the dash I could use for a 4X4 indicator. Only need to fab up a bracket to mount a switch on the transfer case lever and a few wires to run.
 
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