My 1971 FJ40 Patina Queen

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I decided to post my truck just so I could keep information in one place. I was totally inspired by @wngrog Project Patina. I had sort of left this truck to linger until I saw his build thread. My daughter has wanted me to make this truck run for her when she turns 16. I said yea right. She actually wanted it to be a Patina rig so kudos to her vision and to @wngrog for showing me the way. I wouldn’t expect much action on this build simply bc I have way too many projects started and consequently, none of them get any attention due to my being totally overwhelmed with them all. Not a good place to be, but I will try to make some decisions and progress somehow.

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Joined
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That’s my 13 yo daughter pulling the plugs out of the engine so we can pour Mystry oil into the cylinders. I bought this truck for $450.00. It had been sitting for many years. When I bought it I actually started it and drove it onto the trailer. That was about 10 years ago. At that time I said the previous owner was an idiot for having let the vehicle sit the way he did. LOL. Now I am the idiot because I have done basically the same thing. I realized that it had sat for so long and that I needed to pour some mystery oil down the cylinders to at least prevent it from rusting. Hopefully it’s not too late. My mechanic attempted to start it six years ago but didn’t get very far. New starter, but it needed a carb. Should I buy a Trolehole carb or have someone like JimC rebuild this carb? I know I can send out the parts to be replated and I would assume he could make it look new, but is it worth the effort?


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Joined
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I also have a question about the brakes. I always figured I would install front disc brakes and get rid of the drum brakes. I bought a box full of parts that was supposedly what I needed to change my axle from drums to disc. Here are the pictures of the parts. Is it better to swap the parts there on my axle that I have or buy a complete disc brake axle?

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Joined
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I know this engine looks rough especially with all the rat poop all over it but cording to the previous owner the 1978 engine was actually previously rebuilt by him. As I said it did start and I drove it on to the trailer. I have to assume it will run again. I see what appears to be some remnants of smog equipment and some De-smogging, but I’m not sure what needs to be left in place or can be removed. There are some vacuum lines coming off the base plate of the carburetor and there is some sort of contraption bolted to the fender but I’m not sure what that is.

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middlecalf

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Well I’d give some advice but your daughter now has as much experience with these cruisers as I do, so I guess asking her is at least as good as my input :D.
 

Martyt

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The contraption with the vacuum lines is the vacuum switching emissions valve. I would keep the emissions stuff on it— I like original rigs. Also, you should get the factory service manual and emissions manual. Nice rig to start with by what I can see! Post more pictures!! BTW, wngrog wants his rig back:)
 
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Man stick that carb back on and blow all the rat s*** off.. you don’t want that in the motor.
I placed a heavy brick over the opening so they cannot get in there. The carb is bagged and soaking in penetrating fluid in preparation for either a rebuild or to be discovered by my grandchildren someday as an unknown object. Mind you neither of my kids are anywhere close to having kids or let alone marriage. :D
 
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The contraption with the vacuum lines is the vacuum switching emissions valve. I would keep the emissions stuff on it— I like original rigs. Also, you should get the factory service manual and emissions manual. Nice rig to start with by what I can see! Post more pictures!! BTW, wngrog wants his rig back:)
But this rig is a 1971 truck with a 1978 engine. Did they have emission crap in 1971? Or maybe the PO swapped over the parts off his 78, which he wrecked. That vacuum switch does look original to this vehicle tho.
 
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What is this contraption on the firewall? I know it has to do with four-wheel-drive switching but I’m not sure how it works or if I should keep it this way. Apparently whatever it was connected to is no longer connected.

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Martyt

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My 69 has same emissions stuff. Does your rig have the 4wd control under dash— I assume it does. Forgot you mentioned it has a 78 engine.
 
Joined
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Messages
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My 69 has same emissions stuff. Does your rig have the 4wd control under dash— I assume it does. Forgot you mentioned it has a 78 engine.
Not sure. I remember there is a lever on the dash. And there is the vacuum operated gizmo I posted above.
 

RodrigzCrzr

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Nice rig!
Now you need to finish that rig for your daughter.
One project at a time.
Looking forward to the progress on that cruiser.
 

wngrog

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This is part of the speedometer cable. It counted miles and tripped a check engine light to remind you to service the truck

Leave it alone or toss it for a one piece cable.

I’ve had good luck with CityRacer carbs.

Don’t go to deep. Get it running. Enjoy it.
 

middlecalf

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The thing in your hand goes to (through) the firewall and connects to a lever on the dash that trips a button like Martyt posted that engages the vacuum for the front drive (also shifts from high to low in transfer case via the lever mechanism circled in blue). Maybe on a 71 the high/low lever and FD button are separate. The item circled in red should have a vacuum hose that attaches to a port on the aft part of the inlet manifold - that’s where the front drive gets its vacuum from to shift in/out of gear.
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thebigredrocker

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What a great father/daughter project!

Make sure your add a fusible link to the big white wire stacked on the starter lug with the battery + cable. Coolerman sells them.
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The VSV on driver fender is 1971 emission’s gear. I don’t need emissions stuff where I live so I removed it.

I would stick with the Japanese carb. Cruiser Outfitters sell rebuild kits. Permatex rust dissolving gel will remove the rust. Napa sells it. It used to be called Naval Jelly. Once rust is removed, spritz it with Rem oil.

The advantage to sending the carb to FJ40Jim or 65swb45 is they will add a port so you can run a vac advance dissy. Plus they will tweak everything so it’s perfect. They’d know what jets to run for a 2F. I see the choke pull off linkage is missing. Probably not a biggie but the carb guys may have a spare.
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Is the FD cable seized in the sheath? Poser posted removal instructions 71 Front Drive cable removal
 
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