Multiple symptoms (1 Viewer)

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cwb

cwb

Joined
Dec 5, 2002
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I've noticed a few symptoms slowly during the last two weeks or so and have decided they may be related. Here are the main issues: Headlights and signal lights are dead and the engine dies whenever I try to push in the choke, even when the engine is fully warmed up. It will run ok as long as I keep the RPMs up around 1000 or higher, such as when the AC is running. But below that it dies every time. Also, I've noticed the volt meter is dipping into the red but I just checked the alternator and it seems to be working. Battery is staying charged.

Thoughts?
 
No ideas?
 
Hi,

How's it crank over while starting?

I'm of the opinion that the main power feed from the battery to the vehicle (connected at the B+ battery terminal) is broken or corroded. It would take you 10 minutes to open the hood and clean both your battery posts and related connections.

If the symptoms continue after that, it's time to measure voltages and post up your findings.

Rick
 
No low idle says vacuum leak to me. How much vacuum are you pulling?
 
It starts fine--cold or warm--but dies if you let it get below about 1000 rmps. Fusable links look fine. As for a vacuum leak, that would only be the culprit if the idle issue coincidentally happened at the same time as my electrical issues.

Alternator was tested today and appears ok.
 
cwb said:
It starts fine--cold or warm--but dies if you let it get below about 1000 rmps. Fusable links look fine. As for a vacuum leak, that would only be the culprit if the idle issue coincidentally happened at the same time as my electrical issues.

Alternator was tested today and appears ok.
Click to expand...

So the symptoms are not time related? Your first post had me thinking like they were.

Ok, separate the issues then. Which one you wanna tackle first?

Oh, what do you mean by the fusible links "look" good??? Did you test them or look at them?


Rick
 
I just looked at the fusible links. I didn't test them. Don't know how.

I found a bad fuse for the turn signals, but right before I found it, as I was driving home, the volt meter went to nothing, and now the battery won't turn over the engine. But the charge or volt lights never came on.

rchalmers3: this has all happened within a few days, but I didn't think of them as related until recently. Don't know if they are or not.

Now I'm wondering if the alternator really is bad. Otherwise, I don't know what it could be.

I'd really appreciate some help. Thanks guys.
 
Replace the alternator with a used one from someone on 'mud or have it re wound to a higher amperage. It sounds like the alternator.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
Replace the alternator with a used one from someone on 'mud or have it re wound to a higher amperage. It sounds like the alternator.
Click to expand...

I disagree, due to my understanding that the starter continued to work after the headlights failed. If it was the alternator, the battery voltage would have affected the starter operation first. However, I am not confident we are receiving accurate reporting of the symptoms, or sequence of events.

CWB, do these things and report your findings:

1) Recharge the battery. You may have to remove it to take to a store for charging and testing, or you may have a charger handy, but either way it needs a charge first.

2) After charging the battery, reinstall it, making sure all the post and cable terminal connections are clean and bright.

3) Using a 12v test light, disconnect the fusible link section at the rear end of the links (furthest from the battery). Connect the aligator clip on the test light to the negative battery post and probe the connector for the fusible links to make sure they are conducting current.

We will get to the bottom of this, but we will need to proceed step by step.

Question: After finding the bad fuse, did you replace it and did the turn signals work?

Rick
 
rchalmers3 said:
I disagree, due to my understanding that the starter continued to work after the headlights failed. If it was the alternator, the battery voltage would have affected the starter operation first. However, I am not confident we are receiving accurate reporting of the symptoms, or sequence of events.

CWB, do these things and report your findings:

1) Recharge the battery. You may have to remove it to take to a store for charging and testing, or you may have a charger handy, but either way it needs a charge first.

2) After charging the battery, reinstall it, making sure all the post and cable terminal connections are clean and bright.

3) Using a 12v test light, disconnect the fusible link section at the rear end of the links (furthest from the battery). Connect the aligator clip on the test light to the negative battery post and probe the connector for the fusible links to make sure they are conducting current.

We will get to the bottom of this, but we will need to proceed step by step.

Question: After finding the bad fuse, did you replace it and did the turn signals work?

Rick
Click to expand...

I was thinking that if the engine is running, at whatever RPM, the voltmeter will register ~8 volts as produced by the alternator.

The electronic system is definitely the issue here.
 
I will do this tomorrow and get back with you guys. Thanks for the help!

One thing, though...what electrical issue would cause the idle problem?
 
rchalmers3 said:
Hi,
I'm of the opinion that the main power feed from the battery to the vehicle (connected at the B+ battery terminal) is broken or corroded. It would take you 10 minutes to open the hood and clean both your battery posts and related connections.

If the symptoms continue after that, it's time to measure voltages and post up your findings.

Rick
Click to expand...

2X.
If your alt tested good and your battery is dying periodically, gotta check those connections. Don't have a 60 so I can't speak to the "idle cutoff solenoid" mentioned earlier. But all of the issues mentioned could stem from bad cable connections. Forgive me if you checked them already, but I didn't see a response.
Crusty cables cause an increase in amperage to overcome the voltage drop. Could cause your light issue. And a working alternator won't be able to charge a battery with bad/loose connections in between. Before you spend any big $, get a free alt/battery check at Autozone (or equivalent) and pick up a stainless steel wire brush and can of silicone spray (or corrosion inhibitor of your choice). Separate all battery connections and scrub them down with the brush. And be sure they're reconnected with the heaviest-gauge cable on the bottom! Repeat at the ground on the fender. And while the battery's disconnected clean the stud on the starter and alternator. Tighten down all connections and hit 'em with a shot of silicone spray, WD40, etc. See if that helps? Corrosion in the circuits will cause all the problems you mentioned, including low voltage at the meter. Let us know what you come up with!
:steer:
 
Do what Matt ( EOE_overland ) said first, he knows what he's talking about. Get the electrical issue sorted out then work on the idle issue.

Idle issues on a carb'd truck are almost always due to the mixture being off, typically due to a vacuum leak, or recently fixed idle leak, which throws off the mixture. If you're pulling 14-16 inches of vacuum, then you need to tune the carb.
 
Sorry to disagree, but I must again. Low voltage to the ignition system will reduce the available spark, ruining the combustion process, thus affecting power, performance, idle quality and increase emissions.

It is not possible for me to agree, especially with the other symptoms, to assume poor idle quality (no idle) is a carb issue. Not yet anyway.

Let's get him squared away on his electrical issues and look at the idle problem if it's still there afterwards.

cbw, there are sometimes a few solenoid components on the carb to cut idle speed and fuel. If these circuits are not being powered, you will have a carb that only functions on the main fuel circuit, as you have described.

PLease reply to my question in my previous post regarding the turn signals.

Rick
 
rchalmers3 said:
Sorry to disagree, but I must again. Low voltage to the ignition system will reduce the available spark, ruining the combustion process, thus affecting power, performance, idle quality and increase emissions.

It is not possible for me to agree, especially with the other symptoms, to assume poor idle quality (no idle) is a carb issue. Not yet anyway.

Let's get him squared away on his electrical issues and look at the idle problem if it's still there afterwards.

cbw, there are sometimes a few solenoid components on the carb to cut idle speed and fuel. If these circuits are not being powered, you will have a carb that only functions on the main fuel circuit, as you have described.

PLease reply to my question in my previous post regarding the turn signals.

Rick
Click to expand...

I agree. I was trying to say sort out the elec issues, then if there is still an idle issue, then it's the carb ( not like there's much else involved at that point )
 
Ok, guys...don't reach through the computer and choke me. I feel really bad about because you've been so good to help me. But here's the deal. I just discovered that when I was trying to diagnose my signal lights that I pulled a relay, the one labeled "flasher" and forget to reinstall it. Now that I've replaced the relay, everything is working fine! The turn signal problem was a fuse. Now I'm showing correct voltage, signal lights and headlights are working...everything's good.

Thanks again for all your help, guys! Sorry for my stupidity.
 
It's idling fine too.
 
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