MUDder's running 35 inch tires

[Hayes]

As promised...

I realize that this topic has been beat-on for a long time, but it is a continually hot-topic.

There seem to be some conflicting opinions out there on what it takes to "run 35 inch tires on an 80-series.
I thought it might be useful to get a comprehensive collection of MUDder's experiences running (or trying to run) 35 inch tires.

If you answer YES to the poll, please post up the details as well.

Describe the details of your suspension system.
Did you have any clearance issues?
What kind of wheeling did you do?

 

[landtank]

I've had 315s (34.7") on for almost 6 years now. It started with an OME medium lift which did have some rubbing on the front but not during articulation. The onto OME heavies and finally Slee's 4".

 

[Wrench]

OME 850/863 heavies,20mm packers in front and 35" Trxus MT. No clearance issues. Hardcore wheeling. Mostly black trails at Paragon.

 

[Cruiserhead05]

I'm running OME 850/863 with no packers and fairly weighted truck. Only minor rub when flexed.
No bumpstop mods yet
No fender flares, which helps
Toyo 315 M/T's

 

[Hayes]

Make sure you mention the lengths of any bump-stop extensions, please.

Specify L-shocks if you got 'em.

Tire details would be nice too.

 

[HeavyD]

Goodyear 315 MTR's with the Slee 4" kit.

 

[MaddBaggins]

315's (34.6) OME heavy lift which netted me 4" on my rig, it's getting closer to 3-1/2 now though. No flares no bumpstops. Slight rubbing on inside of rear wells when fully stuffed and just a little rub on the shock tower in front when fully stuffed.
I run rocky trails in AZ 3.5-4.5.

 

[AMMO]

Back in the day:

I ran two set ups. The first was Yok's 315's no lift some rub, but wheeled Big Bear with out any real issues. These tires and wheels were sitting in my garage and begged me to try them out, what do you know they fit.

From that point I went to the OME 3" heavy, nothing else was done, no drop brackets on bumps, I wanted max flex. I also removed the sways. These were ProComp true 35's on 17 x 8. The first pic I have a good lean on, so don't judge the wheel well space.

Sorry If I left out some details, that was a long time ago.

-Matt

 

[Box Rocket]

ok I voted Yes and put about 5". I'm guessing that's about where I'm at.

Originally on OME Mediums, 1.5" spacers up front, OME trim packers in back, Rancho RS9000 shocks, sway bar drop brackets, Outback front control arms. had some rubbing on the rear mud flaps at full stuff. Pulled the flaps and no rubbing.

Currently running OME J's, 1.5" spacers up front, OME trim packers in back, OME L shocks, sway bar drop brackets, Outback front control arms, no bumpstop extensions.

Type of wheeling? It's my wife's daily driver, but when it hits the trail it's usually Moab for some moderate-to-difficult rock crawling, or Utah's desert for expedition style wheeling.

First two shots are with the OME mediums setup. Last shot is the current setup with the J's. Haven't been on the trail yet with this setup but it's taller so not expecting clearance issues.

 

[Nay]

I am on a 3.5" (unloaded) FOR lift running Bilstein shocks that are a bit under 10" of travel, eye to eye mounted with shock adapters. Trxus MT that are a true 35" tire. At ride height with no load, my shocks have 5" of up travel, and about 4.75" down. As you can see, I don't have flares. Rear bumpstops are dropped 2", fronts I didn't mess with because they hit the coil pad with 1/2" travel left.

Pictures I think tell the story:

First pic - the front shock at ride height. That is 5 inches of exposed piston (up travel). I hit a huge pothole on that side the other day, and you can see the dust line went down to about 3/4", but did not bottom out the shock.

Second pic shows the rear tire just as the axle makes contact with the bumpstop. The tire still has decent travel before it would rub. One thing to note here is that I was using a construction dirt pile as my flex ramp, and it was hard to get the suspension all the way down on the bumpstop (front was up on the pile and it was hard to get out of the rig on the "high" side four feet off the ground). But it did compress and hit finally as the other side fully extended, which is what you get with a 50/50 up/down travel ratio. It neither hits the bumpstop before the other side has fully extended nor picks up a wheel due to full extension before hitting the bumpstop.

Third pic shows the remaining up travel of the rear shock when the bumpstop hits - I could go with a 1.5" rear bumpstop extension and get a bit more up travel if I wanted to.

 

[-Spike-]

True 35's on Slee's full 6" kit.

Going to upgrade to 37's ASAP. I believe they'll fit without too much further modification, which is why I went with the 6" kit right up front. I figured the 35's weren't going to be permanent and I've done the 'constant upgrade' route before on other vehicles. This time I'm trying to do things that I won't have to change later.

-Spike

 

[Nay]

Here is my 80 in the driveway so you can see suspension height. Plus some action

The middle picture is called "The Wall" and it's steeper than it looks. Still wasn't on the bumpstop on that right rear tire despite the load to the rear suspension and flex to that side.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

315 BFG ATs, OME 4" Comps up front, 863J's in back, L shocks. Front bumpstops removed from inside the spring, using the 1993 frame mounted ones.

 

[Curran]

I've got Slee's 6" setup and 35" TrXus tires.

You can run 35s with less lift, however, I like the extra clearance for the bumpers and body on the Paragon/Rausch Creek style trails. I also plan going to 36 or 37 inch tires next and like the knowledge that they will fit without busting knuckles again under my truck.

 

[Beowulf]

Cory,
Do you have a write-up on the removal of the front spring snubbers/bumpstops? Have you extended the 1993 frame mounted stops? What is involved with the removal of the stops inside the springs?
-B-

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Cory,
Do you have a write-up on the removal of the front spring snubbers/bumpstops? Have you extended the 1993 frame mounted stops? What is involved with the removal of the stops inside the springs?
-B-

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=144839

Last pic shows the spring without the bumpstop. It's held onto the cone by one bolts, easy to remove. I haven't dropped the frame mounted stops, I need to put the truck on a jack and see where the shock bottoms out and how far I need to drop them.

 

[forcedinductionz]

37x13x16 boggers with a slee 6" Love it, don't flex it out a whole lot, mainly for mud bogging.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Ran L's on both 80's

850/863 (plus trim packs) on the '93

6" Slee (now...had everything from 2.5-5.5" before)

At the current 6" the truck rides, handles and drives better than any other setup I've had.

Wanted to run 37's but decided against it because I did not want to lose articulation. (Or cut up my truck)

 

[619TOY]

I'm running a Slee 6" kit with 1" wheel spacers, 315 Toyo MT's and no sways. I can definately tell you that where you wheel makes a huge difference as to how much you can expect to rub. I would consider myself a pretty hard wheeler as I've never failed to at least try what I saw anyone else trying. Sometimes I can go out for a whole weekend without rubbing. But for the most part, I rub alot! Nothing that's going to cause immediate damage mind you, but it sounds pretty bad inside. I've posted them before but here are a few pics: #1 pretty stuffed for a 6" lift #2 mudflap/flare rubbing #3 top of rear wheelwell.

 

[Romer]

J's heavily weight down with Toys give me a little more than a 3"ift. L Shocks. Swaybar drop blocks, 2" Bump stops on the rear only and I trimmed the flares to keep them from getting ripped off.