MTBer wants to builds a gravel bike (1 Viewer)

[jlm43]

Drop bars, do you love'em or hate'em?

I'm building my first drop bar bike this spring if all the parts arrive in time. I'm going with the same geometry of the Otso Warakin but the frame will be made by Waltly Titanium out of China. Now that I got the geometry down to where I want it, I can't decide on them frame design. Do I go with the retro newsboy look or with something more modern? Both should have a similar ride feel so that isn't an issue. Weight should be similar as well. What's the groups consensus on this dilemma?

I'll update the thread when I get more of the build finalized.

 

[nonstopbike]

NICE! Can you provide any more of your frame geo (mainly what size otso would you buy) and clearance specs? What is the max tire width you're planning on? Will you run fenders/rack? What Ti tubing?

Dropper post or no?

Frame design can do a lot to smooth out the roads, but surely can look retro/modern quite easily as well ( your photos do a good job of that). Why not pull a more direct rip of the Otso frame?

 

[ferg]

Someone please explain 'gravel bike'?

 

[jlm43]

NICE! Can you provide any more of your frame geo (mainly what size otso would you buy) and clearance specs? What is the max tire width you're planning on? Will you run fenders/rack? What Ti tubing?

Dropper post or no?

Frame design can do a lot to smooth out the roads, but surely can look retro/modern quite easily as well ( your photos do a good job of that). Why not pull a more direct rip of the Otso frame?

Definitely.
At 5'11" with a 33" inseam, I could go with a 56 or a 58 as I'm sort of in between sizing. I demo'ed a 56cm for a weekend and liked it more than any others I've ridden so I'll probably stick with that. I'm new to drop bars so this will be an experiment for sure. My LBS is an OTSO dealer and I'm tempted to just get one of the 56cm's they have coming at the end of April. I had Waltly Ti do a 29er frame for me last year and it came out great so that's why I'm leaning towards another custom Ti build.

My basic plan is to take the 56cm Warakin geo and make two changes. 1) chop the seat tube length to 490mm and expand it to a 30.9mm diameter allowing for a 125mm BikeYoke Revive dropper, and 2) base the front end off of a 480mm fork instead of a 420mm fork. To do this, I'll shorten the head tube length from 140mm to 100mm. The other 20mm will be made up for by running a zs56 lower headset rather than the ec44, and using minimal spacers under the stem. The overall stack will increase by less than 10mm or so which shouldn't be too noticeable. Well, not to me anyway.

I plan on running tires in the 40mm range so I asked to allow for 45mm tires. Anything over that and I'll be taking the single speed. I also requested for clearance of a 44 tooth chainring. I don't see me ever need anything bigger than a 42 but it would be nice to clear a 42 elliptical ring. I haven't thought about fenders or racks yet so thanks for bringing that up. Fenders would be useful in the spring so I may want to allow for those.

I'm thinking that the curved seat stays with the retro design would allow for some give in the seat tube allowing for a bit more comfort. I'm not sold on the design though. Sort of like a Land Rover, they sure do look good but that doesn't mean I want one. I just want something different than the typical 2 triangle design. Any ideas would be great, I haven't committed to the design yet. Just finished getting the geo sorted. I'm afraid that the retro design will look REALLY good or REALLY bad, so it's a bit of a gamble. The pictures I posted are not mine, they are just for reference.

Here's what I sent to Waltly:
Effective top tube: 565mm
Nominal head tube angle: 71.5 degrees
Head tube length: 100mm
Nominal seat tube angle: 73.0 degrees
Seat tube length: 490mm
Bottom bracket drop: 71mm
Chainstay length: 425mm
Fork offset: 44mm
Fork length: 480mm

Someone please explain 'gravel bike'?

From what I'm told, gravel is the spine friendly version of a CX bike. Something that's more adventure and less race. We live next door to Acadia National Park in Maine so I want something that is dirt road friendly. Between the park loop road and the carriage trails, there's plenty to ride.

 

[jlm43]

Or I could go with the same design I did for the 29er????

 

[nonstopbike]

the 29er geo would likely be far to slack for extended rigid gravel riding. likely wont need nearly that much clearance, and may be hard to find a geo-corrected rigid fork for the frame.

you've already got the split top-tube thing going in the garage it seems, not surprising you like that retro look.

Can we see a photo of that 29er built up? I think you're on the right track with a lot of the project. And you're correct with the 'gravel bike' description, geo for long days and rough terrain versus a true road bike with skinnies or a CX race bike designed for short (1hr) races with ground clearance and dismounting. The lines are VERY blurry for each rider, its a matter of comfort, confidence, and capabilities. If you want flatbar gravel, go for it. you want suspension, go for it. You want tall gearing for high speed, go for it. you want bottle bosses on every open tube to bolt s*** to, go for it. End of the day, you want to look back at your tracks and not feel like you missed out for ANY reason.

Dropper is a major 'GO', and i think you'll be primed for going to soft-bags in the front triangle/ on the handlebars/under the seatpost. Lots of great options to carry supplies for longer adventure days or for bikepacking. Dropper friendly seatbags exist. You're probably going to like a nice, wide flared drop to remind you of the control of a flatbar from the MTB side of things.

What groupset are you pairing this with? 1x is a sure bet, wide rear range is also there for you. Most 29" gravel frames run into the fight for space at the Chainstay/ BB junction on the driveside, with either limited tire clearance (40-45c should be fine) and maximum chainring size. You've probably already familiar with this on your 29er being capped out sub 36t chainrings for tires larger than 2.0". I personally run 1x Di2 Shimano with Hydraulic disc, my current all-road setup is a Raleigh RXC Pro (true CX race geo) with minimal clearance past 38c and geared for more hard road than trail at 50t x 11-46T. This is much more Road than gravel, but my bike handling confidence and flexibility allow for this to work right now. If I was doing more dedicated gravel/bike-packing, bike choice would relax a bit in many ways.

Sure you have hydro disc already on your MTB so that will be an easy swap, but price for integrated shifting turns some towards bar end (friction/index shifting). Clutched rear derailleur is also a must.

Look forward to hearing more of this come together, the compact geo will give you plenty of standover clearance, while giving a long travel dropper at good-to-minimum insertion. This alone will likely provide significant compliance when paired with the frame material and tire width. Typically, as seen with many carbon frames, the seatstays are either shortened, thinned out, or curved in the other direction than the example shown, so as to best maximize the seated riders ability to flex the frame.

 

[jlm43]

As for the 29er geo, I should be more clear, I wouldn't take the geometry of the SS, just the frame design. I think the top tube would be way to low though so I'll have to brainstorm some more.

I do like the twin top tube look for some reason. I know it's all personal preference though. One nice thing is that you can take one of the ball bungee cord loops and strap just about anything too the bottom of them. Malted adult beverages strap up nicely, just don't hit the trails with them strapped there. It doesn't end well. I'll be putting a few water bottle mounts on the frame to allow for gear. One nice thing about titanium is I don't mind strapping stuff directly to it. Even duct taping stuff down is fine.

Dropper is one of the main reasons for the custom frame. I measured the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the saddle rails on my 3 other bikes and the average is 682.5mm. And if my measurements are somewhat accurate, I should be about 25mm from fully inserted with the 125mm BikeYoke Revive. I could go a bit longer with the seat tube but I want to leave plenty of room for error in my measurements.

As for the groupset, it might be a bit of a mix. I prefer Shimano shifters and brakes so I'll be going with GRX 810 with those. The rear derailleur is irrelevant to me, it's the shifters that matter. On my mountain bikes, I prefer XTR shifters with Deore derailleurs over the typical SLX shifter / XT derailleur combo. The crankset will be either a SRAM Force1 GXP crank or the GRX 810. I found a deal on the Force1 carbon crank for the same money as the 810, I just haven't hit the purchase now button. 6 out of 8 bikes in the house have GXP cranks and they've treated me well for years. Why quit now. As for the cassette, probably stick with the 11-42 shimano cassette. If a SRAM 10-42 cassette will play well, I may try that for a bit more range. I have a 480mm full carbon rigid fork sitting in the parts bin so that's one of the reasons to go with the longer fork geo. It saves me a couple hundred dollars now and gives me the option to run something like the new SID SL if I feel the urge. Wheels are being built up as soon as the hubs arrive at the LBS. They will consist of Nextie rims (22mm inner, 23mm depth, 28 hole, 3k matte finish), DT Swiss 350 j-bend hubs, white DT Swiss Aerolite spokes, and pink double head nipples. They should weigh in around 1450 grams, not super light but definitely not heavy weights either. No set choice on the bar and stem combo. I'm new to drop bars so I'll go cheap and experiment with a few different options. I like the idea of the Salsa Cowchipper so I may try those at some point.

I'm really second guessing the newsboy look so I may try for something more basic. Maybe to look just like the Warakin from the side but still have the continuous twin tubes. I'll see what I can come up with and check with the builders. I've thought about going with carbon to save some weight but I really like the idea of metal for this. We live in Maine and this will see some road slime and salt air. We have a house lot on MDI with two different ferry stations within 5 miles from us. Would be nice to check out some of the islands off the coast by bike.

Here's some pictures of the 29er SS. The new wheels were added after the pictures were taken and the brakes have been swapped to the new XTR Race. Getting parts this past summer was a PITA. I still haven't gotten the fork for it that I wanted. I was set on the SID 35 Ultimate but that's been hard to come by. The silver Pike Ultimate would look nice too though. The bike is made for a 120mm low offset fork.

 

[nonstopbike]

As for the 29er geo, I should be more clear, I wouldn't take the geometry of the SS, just the frame design. I think the top tube would be way to low though so I'll have to brainstorm some more.

I do like the twin top tube look for some reason. I know it's all personal preference though. One nice thing is that you can take one of the ball bungee cord loops and strap just about anything too the bottom of them. Malted adult beverages strap up nicely, just don't hit the trails with them strapped there. It doesn't end well. I'll be putting a few water bottle mounts on the frame to allow for gear. One nice thing about titanium is I don't mind strapping stuff directly to it. Even duct taping stuff down is fine.

The old Trek Sawyers were an amazing frame, and I do support the twin top tube, but that rear triangle doesnt do anything for me bowed upward. I personally curved seatstays ofa custom steel road bike the downward direction and think that looks much better.

Dropper is one of the main reasons for the custom frame. I measured the center of the bottom bracket to the center of the saddle rails on my 3 other bikes and the average is 682.5mm. And if my measurements are somewhat accurate, I should be about 25mm from fully inserted with the 125mm BikeYoke Revive. I could go a bit longer with the seat tube but I want to leave plenty of room for error in my measurements.

Thats good, little wiggle room dependant on final result/build is a good call.

As for the groupset, it might be a bit of a mix. I prefer Shimano shifters and brakes so I'll be going with GRX 810 with those. The rear derailleur is irrelevant to me, it's the shifters that matter. On my mountain bikes, I prefer XTR shifters with Deore derailleurs over the typical SLX shifter / XT derailleur combo. The crankset will be either a SRAM Force1 GXP crank or the GRX 810. I found a deal on the Force1 carbon crank for the same money as the 810, I just haven't hit the purchase now button. 6 out of 8 bikes in the house have GXP cranks and they've treated me well for years. Why quit now. As for the cassette, probably stick with the 11-42 shimano cassette. If a SRAM 10-42 cassette will play well, I may try that for a bit more range. I have a 480mm full carbon rigid fork sitting in the parts bin so that's one of the reasons to go with the longer fork geo. It saves me a couple hundred dollars now and gives me the option to run something like the new SID SL if I feel the urge.

Mixture of SRAM/Shimano should do fine as you've outlined it here. Just get that wide-range clutched derailleur in the back to cover the cassette of choice. You'll get into the issue of cable-pull ratio on mechanical dropbar to mountain derailleur, so be mindful of that. This is one reason we're seeing the AXS/Di2 groupsets really taking off in this discipline, for maximum cassette range, dropbar ergonomics, and cross-discipline compatibility tat has not previously existed without after-market resolutions.

Wheels are being built up as soon as the hubs arrive at the LBS. They will consist of Nextie rims (22mm inner, 23mm depth, 28 hole, 3k matte finish), DT Swiss 350 j-bend hubs, white DT Swiss Aerolite spokes, and pink double head nipples. They should weigh in around 1450 grams, not super light but definitely not heavy weights either. No set choice on the bar and stem combo. I'm new to drop bars so I'll go cheap and experiment with a few different options. I like the idea of the Salsa Cowchipper so I may try those at some point.

Carbon wheels will dramatically improve ride quality in this realm. Find the dropbar shape and width you like in aluminum before going to carbon for these as well. Wheel weight seems solid for this purpose, dont want to be worried about a featherweight setup in the woods. I do not ride with Flared bars, but there are more and more options hitting the market to accomodate those who do. from mild to wild. thankfully that will be easy enough for you to try out.

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I'm really second guessing the newsboy look so I may try for something more basic. Maybe to look just like the Warakin from the side but still have the continuous twin tubes. I'll see what I can come up with and check with the builders. I've thought about going with carbon to save some weight but I really like the idea of metal for this. We live in Maine and this will see some road slime and salt air. We have a house lot on MDI with two different ferry stations within 5 miles from us. Would be nice to check out some of the islands off the coast by bike.

I'd dispel the thought to go Carbon, you've got Ti and seem to have found a builder that will take your input and has delivered a solid product. If corrosion is a worry, I've not seen any issues with carbon in my time (last 15years, typically within an hour or two of the Pacific Ocean). Ti doesn't need to be frame-saved like steel, making it an easy coastal choice.

Here's some pictures of the 29er SS. The new wheels were added after the pictures were taken and the brakes have been swapped to the new XTR Race. Getting parts this past summer was a PITA. I still haven't gotten the fork for it that I wanted. I was set on the SID 35 Ultimate but that's been hard to come by. The silver Pike Ultimate would look nice too though. The bike is made for a 120mm low offset fork.

View attachment 2596882View attachment 2596883View attachment 2596889View attachment 2596890

That's a great looking build, why not grab the toptube/seatstay design from this? Albeit will need a bit of a bend at the seattube to accommodate for geometry changes, will still capture that essence and maintain ride quality too. May not need the extra bit in front of the seattube.

I hear you on the difficulty to source parts. Bike manufacturers are far from beyond the struggles of the supply chain issues due to international tariffs/shipping constraints and COVID. Buy what you can when you can, or wait unknown periods of time. The used market has seemed to do surprisingly well during this period. Glad to here you're supporting your LBS with the build.

Are the wheels pictured the Nextie rims? any complaints from the wheelbuilders on rim quality or how they laced up?

 

[jlm43]

Just a short update on the build.
The LBS ordered some of the available parts. Force1 GXP 42t crank, DT Swiss 350 hubs, and the GRX 810 left brake / dropper post combo. I think finding the right side brake / shifter will be the struggle. I might have to consider going with GRX 600 level or GRX 810 Di2.
Still working out the frame details. I sent this rudimentary drawing of what’s currently scrambled in my head. Also attached an image of an 80’s BMX frame that pulls at the nostalgia strings. It’s the newsboy style twin top tube frame but with the long continuous curve straightened out. With the 12 hour time difference, it’s pretty much at one email per day. Amy at Waltly has been stellar to deal with so far so that’s a plus.

 

[jlm43]

I'd dispel the thought to go Carbon, you've got Ti and seem to have found a builder that will take your input and has delivered a solid product. If corrosion is a worry, I've not seen any issues with carbon in my time (last 15years, typically within an hour or two of the Pacific Ocean). Ti doesn't need to be frame-saved like steel, making it an easy coastal choice.

That's a great looking build, why not grab the toptube/seatstay design from this? Albeit will need a bit of a bend at the seattube to accommodate for geometry changes, will still capture that essence and maintain ride quality too. May not need the extra bit in front of the seattube.

Are the wheels pictured the Nextie rims? any complaints from the wheelbuilders on rim quality or how they laced up?

I lusted over carbon all through the mid 90's when I could barely afford steel. So I've been a carbon fanboy for the last 10 years or so. Carbon doesn't corrode like aluminum or steel but it's the overall use of the bike that leads me to titanium for this. It's just going to have a harder life and I don't want to worry about it getting beat up. Plus, anodizing titanium myself is quite fun. I did the SS myself and I plan to get a better power supply for this next build. It should allow for more controlled color saturation.

Thanks, it was a fun build. The ride turned out to be spot on for what I was looking for. Most on the market are either XC race machines or new school enduro sleds. This has short chainstays and a 68 degree head angle with a 120mm fork. Pretty well balanced for a SS in the northeast. For me anyway.

The wheels previously pictured are from Hulk Bike on eBay. Dimensions are 33mm outer, 27mm inner, 29mm deep with a 12k twill weave pattern. The wheelset weighs in at 1450g with DT 350 hubs and DT Aerolite spokes. After the gravel wheels are built, 3 out of 4 of my bikes will have the same hub / spoke / generic carbon combination. Here’s the new wheel mock up. Obviously not built as hubs are still inbound.

 

[graveling]

I'll be interested to know how the custom TI gavel bike works out. I toured the Moots factory while skiing out in steamboat a few years back and would love one but the prices are stupid. I build up my own bikes and have bought Chinese carbon frames (fatty) with good results. I have 5 bikes, but my fav is a old steel soma double cross I use for gravel / general road bike. I built it up with stuff I had laying around - Dura Ace 9spd front and rear der., Campy crank, Chris King Headset, Ultimate Shorty center pulls and Head CX wheels. Something about steel that just works for me.

 

[jlm43]

I think we have most of the details worked out. A few things that are still up for debate.
1) putting the derailleur cable internal of top tube / seat stay should clean things up on the right side.
2) 100mm HT with 480mm fork or 160mm HT, 400mm fork, and 20mm spacer. This one is causing me the most grief for some reason. Ultimately the ride shouldn’t with the longer fork installed but it may look proportionally off.

 

[nonstopbike]

Builder image looks great, has just enough bends in the right places and toptube/seatstay being a single pair of tubes is gonna look/ride great.

Agree with internal routing as much as possible, although I re-read and believe you'll be running it external to the tubing but along the vertical path towards the R. Der, on the interior side of the drive-side TT/SS tubing. Correct?

The plan for the 100mm HT is suspension fork/suspension-corrected rigid options? Do you have a fork in mind ? Did they provide a frame-spec with that HT option? The shorter headtube makes it feel very 29er on looks alone, but the likely more available 400mm fork options/ and ability to use other headsets/dial in fitment over the course of the bikes life, leads me to lean towards more headtube length and spacers.

 

[jlm43]

Agree with internal routing as much as possible, although I re-read and believe you'll be running it external to the tubing but along the vertical path towards the R. Der, on the interior side of the drive-side TT/SS tubing. Correct?

First, thank you @nonstopbike for chiming in. It really is appreciated.
For the rear derailleur, I'm hoping to have it run internal of the tube. I wanted it for the brake as well but the caliper would have to go on the seatstay.

The plan for the 100mm HT is suspension fork/suspension-corrected rigid options? Do you have a fork in mind ? Did they provide a frame-spec with that HT option? The shorter headtube makes it feel very 29er on looks alone, but the likely more available 400mm fork options/ and ability to use other headsets/dial in fitment over the course of the bikes life, leads me to lean towards more headtube length and spacers.

I was hoping to utilize a fork that I already have. It's an equivalent to this one.

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I've stared at the Salsa Cutthroat for way to long to see how I feel about the 480mm fork look. I think I'm leaning towards just breaking out the wallet and getting a gravel specific fork. I've had good luck with generic carbon and can't justify $500 on an Enve or Lithic right now so I may look into this one. I've had a couple frames from this vendor so I feel comfortable giving it a try.

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[nonstopbike]

First, thank you @nonstopbike for chiming in. It really is appreciated.
For the rear derailleur, I'm hoping to have it run internal of the tube. I wanted it for the brake as well but the caliper would have to go on the seatstay.

Gotcha, Shifter cable and housing into DS TT routed down and out of DS SS just above rear derailleur with room for natural 'looping' for rear derailleur position. If the manufacturer can do this 'fully' routed (ie. 4mm internal tubing for full-length housing pushed through) that may be most ideal from a simplicity standpoint. For weight concerns or possible price obstacle, they may say that there are two holes drilled at ingress/egress points with ferrule stops built in to run housing to TT/SS with shift cable ONLY run internal. Because its Ti and a straight yet bent single tube, either should be 'easy' to route from new, as they'd likely send it fresh with a routing straw piped in.

The drafted mfgr spec sheet looks like internal DT routing for all with housing routed externally past the BB underneath the CS's to both R. der and brake caliper. Not a bad thing, but it may be there preferred (read: cheaper) method.

I was hoping to utilize a fork that I already have. It's an equivalent to this one.

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I've stared at the Salsa Cutthroat for way to long to see how I feel about the 480mm fork look. I think I'm leaning towards just breaking out the wallet and getting a gravel specific fork. I've had good luck with generic carbon and can't justify $500 on an Enve or Lithic right now so I may look into this one. I've had a couple frames from this vendor so I feel comfortable giving it a try.

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The Salsa's were what I had in mind when you mentioned the long fork/short HT idea. I think going 'full' gravel with the build and aesthetic (fork/HT length) is the way to go.

Only other note, is the brake caliper mounting styles on those forks are post-mount, and most new groups are flat-mount. Obviously there are adapters available, but something to think about as well. I saw on the mfgr's spec sheet both styles shown on the rear, so specifying your wants there is crucial. Your fork vendor should have options with the new more standard flat mount.

Nice to see you're going threaded BB as well, keeps things simple.

 

[jlm43]

Gotcha, Shifter cable and housing into DS TT routed down and out of DS SS just above rear derailleur with room for natural 'looping' for rear derailleur position. If the manufacturer can do this 'fully' routed (ie. 4mm internal tubing for full-length housing pushed through) that may be most ideal from a simplicity standpoint. For weight concerns or possible price obstacle, they may say that there are two holes drilled at ingress/egress points with ferrule stops built in to run housing to TT/SS with shift cable ONLY run internal. Because its Ti and a straight yet bent single tube, either should be 'easy' to route from new, as they'd likely send it fresh with a routing straw piped in.

The drafted mfgr spec sheet looks like internal DT routing for all with housing routed externally past the BB underneath the CS's to both R. der and brake caliper. Not a bad thing, but it may be there preferred (read: cheaper) method.


The Salsa's were what I had in mind when you mentioned the long fork/short HT idea. I think going 'full' gravel with the build and aesthetic (fork/HT length) is the way to go.

Only other note, is the brake caliper mounting styles on those forks are post-mount, and most new groups are flat-mount. Obviously there are adapters available, but something to think about as well. I saw on the mfgr's spec sheet both styles shown on the rear, so specifying your wants there is crucial. Your fork vendor should have options with the new more standard flat mount.

Nice to see you're going threaded BB as well, keeps things simple.

I'm a fan of full housing for everything so that's what has been requested. If they supply ferrule stops, I'm hopeful that they can be drilled out to allow the housing to pass through. I've done it on a couple carbon frames with success so I'll hope for the best.

As for the cables under the BB, that's pretty much the only option for the plate portion of the DS chain stay. If the brake side goes internal, that should clear up some of it. I just need to get the chain stay portion of the derailleur put inside. Not a deal breaker either way but it would be nice.

It's a standard 12x142 rear with 140mm flat mount. The sliders in the drawing are left over from the first first draft. I requested sliders initially but was told that flat mount sliders are not an option. So I scrapped that idea.

Good logic on the "full gravel" aspect. Maybe that's the justification I was looking for. other than not having to spend more money. The GRX 810 shifters already put me over the intended price point.

Yup, threaded BB is all I know and I don't want to learn anything new in that regards.

 

[nonstopbike]

I'm a fan of full housing for everything so that's what has been requested. If they supply ferrule stops, I'm hopeful that they can be drilled out to allow the housing to pass through. I've done it on a couple carbon frames with success so I'll hope for the best.

From the diagram, they appear to be aluminum drop-in style that can be easily made for ferrules or direct housing pass-through, with a drill or from factory. Typically they have a single 2.5mm retaining bolt for cable fishing.

As for the cables under the BB, that's pretty much the only option for the plate portion of the DS chain stay. If the brake side goes internal, that should clear up some of it. I just need to get the chain stay portion of the derailleur put inside. Not a deal breaker either way but it would be nice.

Agreed. Brake may not be able to go full internal due to BB type and lack of room for housing and BB with spindle cover. Chainstay shape and length may limit their ability to add the above mentioned drop-in style stop. If this were a T47 or BB/PF30, you'd likely have enough room to route that hose through the BB and beneath a spindle (24mm for sure, 30mm would be tight). This is how many carbon frames are routed, particularly CX/gravel use where constant cleaning is performed.

It's a standard 12x142 rear with 140mm flat mount. The sliders in the drawing are left over from the first first draft. I requested sliders initially but was told that flat mount sliders are not an option. So I scrapped that idea.

Gotcha. Easy enough.

Good logic on the "full gravel" aspect. Maybe that's the justification I was looking for. other than not having to spend more money. The GRX 810 shifters already put me over the intended price point.

Then it seems to be that sourcing a fork from that mfgr on ebay with a flatmount would be ideal, with the use of an adapter a close second place.

Yup, threaded BB is all I know and I don't want to learn anything new in that regards.

Hell yeah, allows you some good color matching display as well!

Sounds like you're narrowing in on it, and that snowball is gaining size/speed.

 

[jlm43]

Then it seems to be that sourcing a fork from that mfgr on ebay with a flatmount would be ideal, with the use of an adapter a close second place.

Sounds like you're narrowing in on it, and that snowball is gaining size/speed.

I’ve already acquired one of these adapters so I can keep the flat mount caliper on my existing post mount fork. It’s not ideal but doesn’t seem any worse than the adapter that’s required for a true flat mount. I’m not opposed to swapping calipers to PM style if needed as well. I like options...

Now just to settle on the final fork length. It would be easy if I wasn’t so set on keeping options open.

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www.assolutions.ca

 

[jlm43]

So I’ve taken the advice of my LBS and stuck with a 400mm -ish fork. As much as I like the idea of running a suspension fork, I think the Lauf Grit would be all i would need / want. Waltly has a full carbon fork that will clear 45+mm tires and has cargo mounts on the side that fits the budget so I’ll go that route. Yup, I’m all over the place.
So here is what I believe to be the final draft. Critique all you want, I need it.

 

[nonstopbike]

Right on!

New headtube looks great, cable routing all looks good. 3x rack boss and interior fender eyelets, very nice. The lauf would plug into this frameset correct? As i've seen it on some other factory rigid (non-suspension corrected frames).

I think you've worked your way to a nice bike here, not much room for critique.

I say 'send it'!