Moved on up: 40 to 200 - what to do first? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Goldbug
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Goldbug
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- #22
yeah, I think I've read the whole thing twice! Definitely want to do the hidden winch and drawers and lift. Might not do airbags since I won't be towing too often.
Builds - I bought a Whale, now I gotta build it and use it
Last month I took my faithful 1998 100 series up to North Carolina to my daughter for the summer. I did the Georgia Traverse and explored a few days and came to the conclusion that driving a modern Land Cruiser is much less stressful on long trips than all the old junk I tend to take on these...forum.ih8mud.com
Check my thread out. I’ll show you what worked for me and what didn’t work.
Hit up @Ozark cruiser at Ozark Overland Outfitters for the “Nolen” package lift lol
When I built mine, I just added as I needed. While I'd be out cruising trails and finding fun places to fish, I'd find myself saying, 'x sure would be helpful here'. So I'd add 'x'. Tried to keep the build pretty basic, with the exception of 34" tires. Did those just for fun and because they look great.
I'll add drawers next because I'm tired of the rooftop box. Need more security and less wind noise/drag - though it probably won't help MPG much but every little bit helps on these things.I need some lights too - which I"m reminded of every winter when it gets dark at 4:00 PM.
I'll add drawers next because I'm tired of the rooftop box. Need more security and less wind noise/drag - though it probably won't help MPG much but every little bit helps on these things.I need some lights too - which I"m reminded of every winter when it gets dark at 4:00 PM.
Thanks - yeah, KO2 285/75/17. The extra sidewall is really nice and makes the ride a little softer that the 33’s on OEM 18’s were, which I like. Also great when aired down. You could do a 34 on OEM 18’s but I wanted the extra sidewall so went with 17’s in a +25 offset. I ran the OEM18’s with a 33” tire but a 34 would likely work with some moderate trimming. Anything larger than a 34 will take quite a bit of work (KDSS relocation, remove mud flaps, a lot of wheel well work and maybe a body mount chop). Wasn’t worth the headache to me. 34’s with stock gearing is fine too - may regear at some point but it’s fine the way it is so probably not.
Check out the wheel and tire database sticky. Tons of useful info there for wheel/tire combos that others have used.
One more thing - 33’s are definitely the ‘smart choice’. They require almost no extra work to fit, don’t take as much of an MPG hit and just much more practical in almost every way. It’s probably the perfect size. But the LC just looks SO damn good on 35’s and 34’s were my compromise.
The KO2’s tend to run small and on my truck are about as large as I’m comfortable with. A ‘true’ 34 may pose some problems that I didn’t have to deal with since they run a bit small.
Search around though - tons of threads on the topic.
The KO2’s tend to run small and on my truck are about as large as I’m comfortable with. A ‘true’ 34 may pose some problems that I didn’t have to deal with since they run a bit small.
Search around though - tons of threads on the topic.
yep
Literally as soon as i lifted i knew my 33s were done in my eyes LOL.
The 33s were put on the same week and i just said f it and lifted the truck to complete the look.
And yeah, 34s on my 8 speed would still play very nicely. I done goofed.
Nominal 33s barely even touched anything, nominal 34s are practically drop in on the LX given you have aftermarket wheels or spacers.
LOL - same. I ran the 33’s until it was time to replace them but knew I’d end up on 34’s as soon as I added the lift. As far as offroad performance though, can’t say I notice any difference.
Are your 285/75 KO2s E load still comfy?
Toyo is the only brand making that size in a C load range and I have trust issues with them.
Im thinking about going to KO2 next because i like the tread uniformity and shoulder integration.
Maybe a ridge grappler even. Really like that model, it just doesnt have a lot of siping.
IDK, I go in circles all day.
Yeah, the extra sidewall definitely helped with on-road comfort. People love to hate the KO2 but I love them - it’s my second set and I’ll be on a third once these are done. I live in the PNW and do lots of travel in rain/snow/ice and find that they’re a great all around tire - except mud. They absolutely suck in mud. But I truly hate mud and tend to avoid it anyway.
I had Toyo MT’s on my 80 and loved them in sand/snow/mud but they were terrible on the street. But it was a dedicated trail rig so that was fine. The 200 is a DD so I need a good all terrain. I do lots of weekend trips into the mountains and the KO2’s do well.
Lots of people seem to love the Ridge Grapplers - they’re both top choices.
Here's the first thing you need to do for your 200:
Move to Moab, Utah.
Ok, you say Moab's too remote. Move to Durango, Colorado.
Just think of all the fuel you'll save not having to drive out west!
Move to Moab, Utah.
Ok, you say Moab's too remote. Move to Durango, Colorado.
Just think of all the fuel you'll save not having to drive out west!
True. Been making long trips to Colorado and Utah last two summers. Probably will again next summer.
Goldbug
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- #34
I'd love to move to Durango or Telluride or Moab. My 10year old is on board, 5 year old wouldn't care, but the ex makes it tough. Such is life.
I pulled the trigger on a 2" Dobinsons IMS lift from Exit Offroad. Thinking 34s with the lift and like @ElJayBird I'm a fan of KO2s. I need something that is good in snow and not too noisy and decent off road and the KO2s have served me well in that regard. For mud I put the Toyo Open Country MTs on the 40, they're my wheeling/beater set of tires.
I pulled the trigger on a 2" Dobinsons IMS lift from Exit Offroad. Thinking 34s with the lift and like @ElJayBird I'm a fan of KO2s. I need something that is good in snow and not too noisy and decent off road and the KO2s have served me well in that regard. For mud I put the Toyo Open Country MTs on the 40, they're my wheeling/beater set of tires.
Clearing the KDSS for 34's (285/70R18 in Nitto R/T's are 33.98) you just need factory offset plus 3/4" or better spaced out or equal offset out. Look at the front driver tire on a full right turn and look what it gets near (inside front part). With the wheel offset mod you can run 34's without the lift.
There are some really good in depth threads on 33 vs 34 vs 35 on here. May have been @Markuson who did the testing and the write up.
Curious - are you assuming a different front bumper? My 295/65 Duratracs on stock 18s (33.1”) with 1.25” spacers sound like they’re going to rip my front bumper off when I back up at almost full lock. I can’t imagine what another ½” radius would be like.
It was Mcgaskins who did the write up.
34s vs 35s on the 200
I recently went through this journey in my build thread, but I figured it might be easier to locate in the future on its own as more members buy and build trucks and try to determine which size tire is appropriate. I think it's safe to say just about everyone wants to go bigger when they get new...
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