Motor Mounts - How long should I expect them to last? (2 Viewers)

[OwnerCS]

How long should I expect motor mounts to last? I don't see a lot of activity on replacing mounts. From what I can see, mine are ok at 236,000 miles on a lightly driven LX470. Is this an item that typically lasts over 300,000 miles?

Thread about Engine Mounts

Motor mounts

I've read about owners having vibration concerns and some owners having to replace engine mounts to eliminate these vibrations. Should engine/transmission mount replacement be a normal service item on higher mileage 100 series? How big of a job is replacement and what do you think a dealer...

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[suprarx7nut]

I'm interested in this as well. From my two 100's I'm seeing that certain bushings wear way faster than others. It would be great to see if there's a trend when/if the engine mounts wear to a significant degree.

 

[OwnerCS]

I'm interested in this as well. From my two 100's I'm seeing that certain bushings wear way faster than others. It would be great to see if there's a trend when/if the engine mounts wear to a significant degree.

I'll be pulling mine out this weekend from an engine with 236,000 miles. I'll post pictures so we can examine them. I do remember it having a lot to do with how a person drives. Since I'm baseline this new purchase, I'm doing a general rubber bushing replacement. Some were showing signs of minor cracks. Surprisingly nothing too bad for 21 years.

 

[abuck99]

I think depends on climate, how hard the vehicle was driven maybe 150k-200k +/-. My 05 were cracked and separating at 185k miles, I'm the second owner (@ 165k) and it was a grocery getter prior to my ownership.

 

[ramangain]

I think depends on climate, how hard the vehicle was driven maybe 150k-200k +/-. My 05 were cracked and separating at 185k miles, I'm the second owner (@ 165k) and it was a grocery getter prior to my ownership.

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That'll buff out

 

[katit]

I think depends on climate, how hard the vehicle was driven maybe 150k-200k +/-. My 05 were cracked and separating at 185k miles, I'm the second owner (@ 165k) and it was a grocery getter prior to my ownership.

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I personally don't see anything major. They will last another 100k. Not like it's control arms bushings. Until they not ripped - there will be no adverse effect.

 

[abuck99]

Nothing major, but the cracked rubber on the mounts transmit a fair bit of movement and vibration. It's an inexpensive and easy job- maybe 2hrs +/-, noticeable result and was worth doing in my case.

 

[katit]

Nothing major, but the cracked rubber on the mounts transmit a fair bit of movement and vibration. It's an inexpensive and easy job- maybe 2hrs +/-, noticeable result and was worth doing in my case.

Not hard job I agree. Just curious what difference you noticed? In my previous experience with other cars similar engine mounts wouldn't make any difference when replaced

 

[geanes]

Nothing major, but the cracked rubber on the mounts transmit a fair bit of movement and vibration. It's an inexpensive and easy job- maybe 2hrs +/-, noticeable result and was worth doing in my case.

After seeing the condition that my rear control arm bushings and front diff bushings were in after 22 years and 250k miles, I'm afraid to look at the engine mounts. My rear control arms had the sleeves falling out of the crumbling bushings. The diff bushings were in awful shape too.

 

[abuck99]

Not hard job I agree. Just curious what difference you noticed? In my previous experience with other cars similar engine mounts wouldn't make any difference when replaced

I replaced both engine mounts & transmission mount- overall felt smoother on/off the gas. When you get the used mounts on the vise for inspection, those cracks open up a considerably more as you flex them.

 

[OwnerCS]

Once I get finish the front end baseline, I'll move to the rear and do the trans mount and rear control arm bushings.

 

[abuck99]

If you have any amount of F-N-R clunk doing all that’ll cure it

 

[geanes]

If you have any amount of F-N-R clunk doing all that’ll cure it

Replacing my tailshaft with a complete new OEM assembly eliminated every bit of the thunk I was getting when engaging gears. Replacing the rear control arms eliminated all of the thunk I was getting on bumps and bridge gaps.

 

[OwnerCS]

I'll be pulling mine out this weekend from an engine with 236,000 miles. I'll post pictures so we can examine them. I do remember it having a lot to do with how a person drives. Since I'm baseline this new purchase, I'm doing a general rubber bushing replacement. Some were showing signs of minor cracks. Surprisingly nothing too bad for 21 years.

Here you go. at 236,000 miles. I'm glad I took the time to replace them. As you can see, they were starting to separate at the top. I've have seen worse on cars with less mileage. This lets me know the previous owner didn't put the truck under a lot of stress that would rock the engine. Its just part of the baseline process for a vehicle that is old enough to vote. Rubber bushings and hoses just start to crack and crumble.

 

[Eyedaho]

Here you go. at 236,000 miles. I'm glad I took the time to replace them. As you can see, they were starting to separate at the top. I've have seen worse on cars with less mileage. This lets me know the previous owner didn't put the truck under a lot of stress that would rock the engine. Its just part of the baseline process for a vehicle that is old enough to vote. Rubber bushings and hoses just start to crack and crumble.

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Did you replace 1236150121 and 1237150081? Anything special to changing them out? Just support the motor with a padded jack under the oil pan?

 

[OwnerCS]

Did you replace 1236150121 and 1237150081? Anything special to changing them out? Just support the motor with a padded jack under the oil pan?

Replaced both. I already had the LX already up on jack stands and released the mounts to remove the PS rack.

Since I went that far, I decided to go ahead and change the mounts. I have a 3-ton floor jack with a rubber pad. I think it has a 24" lift. I put a block of 2x4x4 under the bell housing where it meets the upper oil pan to raise the engine. I didn't want to lift using the lower oil pan to risk bending it. I released the fan shroud and upper radiator hose so the fan would have plenty of clearance to avoid damage while lifting the engine. Also, note to only release one motor mount at a time. It makes it easier to reposition after installing the new ones.

On a LX470 or AHC model, the fluid lines are just in the way. Especially on the driver side I had to buy a 90 point flex head ratchet to reach in and remove the top center mount bolt. I couldn't get enough arc on the 72 point working through the small opening on the driver side.

 

[Eyedaho]

Replaced both. I already had the LX already up on jack stands and released the mounts to remove the PS rack.

Since I went that far, I decided to go ahead and change the mounts. I have a 3-ton floor jack with a rubber pad. I think it has a 24" lift. I put a block of 2x4x4 under the bell housing where it meets the upper oil pan to raise the engine. I didn't want to lift using the lower oil pan to risk bending it.

On a LX470 or AHC model, the fluid lines are just in the way. Especially on the driver side I had to buy a 90 point flex head ratchet to reach in and remove the top center mount bolt. I couldn't get enough arc on the 72 point working through the small opening on the driver side.

Thanks for the detailed response! Good call on supporting on the bell housing. I've never been too comfortable with putting much force on thin sheet metal oil pans. At 300k miles, I'm adding these to the list. Mine's an LC, so I won't have to worry about the pesky AHC lines, but I have been eyeing flex head ratchets lately, so it might still be a good excuse to get one!

 

[OwnerCS]

Thanks for the detailed response! Good call on supporting on the bell housing. I've never been too comfortable with putting much force on thin sheet metal oil pans. At 300k miles, I'm adding these to the list. Mine's an LC, so I won't have to worry about the pesky AHC lines, but I have been eyeing flex head ratchets lately, so it might still be a good excuse to get one!

I ordered some crazy expensive Proto high point 3/8 drive online. I think I'm about to get ripped off. If I don't hear from them, I will just run over to Home Depot and pick up one of these 3/8 drive 100 position locking flex head ratchets.

 

[saucebox]

I ordered some crazy expensive Proto high point 3/8 drive online. I think I'm about to get ripped off. If I don't hear from them, I will just run over to Home Depot and pick up one of these 3/8 drive 100 position locking flex head ratchets.

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I use that one all the time. Super handy, though eventually, the flex part will refuse to lock into place. Possibly serviceable, but since it has a lifetime warranty...maybe I'll just swap for new next time I'm at HD.

 

[TLEXAS]

Replacing motor mounts are part of the elimination of thunk/clunk. Did mine last year and the transmission mount was ugly and the replacement made a huge contribution to improving comfort levels. Not bad first mounts changed for 500,000 kms. Being a diesel a bit more weight to have to carry. just another part that needs replacing eventually.