Motor Mount R&R

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Im changing out my driver's side motor mount. Is it Ok to jack up the engine and just take off the upper and lower nuts from the mount, or is it better to remove the 3 nuts on the block bracket so I dont have to raise and lower the engine?
Bryan
 

D'Animal

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The stud that sticks through the engine mount on top is pretty long. You can get the old one out but you will not be able to get the new one in.

I took the nut off my passenge side mount and took the nut off the transmission/transfercase mounts when I did mine. If you don't you may end up tearing the passenger side mount. Or if you roll the engine to the passenger side you may tear one of the tranny/t-case mounts.


my 0.02
 
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Im changing out my driver's side motor mount. Is it Ok to jack up the engine and just take off the upper and lower nuts from the mount, or is it better to remove the 3 nuts on the block bracket so I dont have to raise and lower the engine?
Bryan

I'd vote more for taking the nuts off both sides of the engine and jacking it up and off the studs. You will have to go pretty far, watch for peripheral stuff that might be inhibiting it. I think you will have a bear of a time getting the 3 bolts out of the block.
 

D'Animal

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Dave-T - Nice Avatar.

Toadhopper. You will have to remove those bottom three nuts. The engine mount is a one piece unit. Right know you a two pieces, a top piece with a long stud and then a bottom piece with the boolts sticking through and the three nuts attatched.

This will all make sense to you when you get the wrenches out.
 

Dynosoar

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Wow! the D-side usually doesn't break as it is not the torque side of the engine. Unless you had a leaky PS pump that spit trans fluid everywhere. In any case, just loosen both sides and jack up the engine it is a quick and easy job.

Dynosoar :zilla:
 

D'Animal

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Wow! the D-side usually doesn't break as it is not the torque side of the engine. Unless you had a leaky PS pump that spit trans fluid everywhere. In any case, just loosen both sides and jack up the engine it is a quick and easy job.

Dynosoar :zilla:

I've had three FJ 60's. On all three of them the DS mount was broke. On all three of them the PS pump leaked. From what I understand from reading other posts on MUD this is pretty common.
 
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1. The DS mount is under tension (pulled) when you load the engine.

2. Leaky PS does accelerate failure.

3. You do need to remove 'wing arm' from engine to R&R

a. removing smog air pump gives more knuckle room.

b. loosen top nut from mm, remove lower nut.

c. support engine ( can use jack on oil pan, not much force needed, 'just a tad of lift.

d. remove 3 bolts holding wing arm; remove along with dangling mm.

e. replace mm; do not torque nut....
go to step d and work backwards....

....Miller Time !

4. If you remove both mm bottom nuts and attempt to lift engine, you'll cram rocker cover (rear of) into firewall !
 

D'Animal

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Sorry if I was not clear in the mount. The nuts I was talking about were on the bottom of the rubber engine mount under the metal bracket that is welded to the fram, not the wing mount on the motor.


1. The DS mount is under tension (pulled) when you load the engine.

2. Leaky PS does accelerate failure.

3. You do need to remove 'wing arm' from engine to R&R

a. removing smog air pump gives more knuckle room.

b. loosen top nut from mm, remove lower nut.

c. support engine ( can use jack on oil pan, not much force needed, 'just a tad of lift.

d. remove 3 bolts holding wing arm; remove along with dangling mm.

e. replace mm; do not torque nut....
go to step d and work backwards....

....Miller Time !

4. If you remove both mm bottom nuts and attempt to lift engine, you'll cram rocker cover (rear of) into firewall !
 
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