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More Stupid Questions on Manifold Gasket

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by Iron_Pig, Dec 5, 2003.

  1. Iron_Pig

    Iron_Pig

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    I tryed to tighten the bolts on the 2F's exhaust manifold /Header to stop the leak. I found a couple of bad bolts that I was fortunate enough to find good threads with a slightly longer replacement. I tightened in hopes to stop the leak,only to discover the torque specs is a measely 30 ft/lbs torque. I doubt if I'm gonna stop the leak at that,so a gasket replacement is likely.
    From what you posted previously,I should use 2 gaskets this time,the 'green ones' from SOR, and use copper RTV gasket seal.
    Should I coat both mating surfaces w/ the copper sealer AND between the 2 gaskets? I may need a couple of tubes,huh?Also, on the inline-6,does the the radiator have to be drained like the Ford 302 8 cyl.?
    I'm learning this motor as I go. This will be my first manifold gasket job. Any tips? If I find the mating surface isn't straight,especially the rather thin header, how do I straighten it?
     
  2. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    You will not have to drain any coolant, unless you are using one of those heat plates on the bottom of the intake, below the carb, and then, you can just pinch those lines off. Some people that have installed headers install this plate, and some do not. I have not ever used one on any of the swaps I have done.

    You should use sealant on both sides of the gaskets, but should not need more than one tube of RTV.

    I would check the mounting surface of the manifold, if it is off a lot, get it resurfaced, and if any studs were marginal, I would replace them, before going through the process, and having to re do it, because a fastener will not hold torque, causing this to happen again.

    Good luck!

    -Steve
     
  3. IDave

    IDave

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    I agree with Poser's suggestions. Replace the bad studs. You'll need one tube or less of copper RTV. But. Don't use the s***ty green gaskets kevlar or whatever. Go OEM. I think you'll be much happier.
     
  4. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    I don't meant to Hijack, but it is on the same topic.

    I have a intake manifold crack that I discovered after removing the carb to re-build. I was thinking that during this process I would go ahead and replace the manifold gasket since I have to take the IM off to have it welded.

    As far as I know I did not have an exaust leak prior(but the truck dosn't run) there is an OEM gasket already in place. So what should I do?

    Replace w/one new gasket?
    Replace w/one new, one old gasket?
    Replace w/two new gaskets?
    Leave alone(I pulled the IM w/o removing the headers{maf} or gasket?
     
  5. IDave

    IDave

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    Xum, why doesn't it run? I assume you are rebuilding the carb in the process of getting it to run, but when you say it doesn't run, does that mean it won't turn over? Starts but runs roughly and stalls? Perhaps a bad leak is why it doesn't run correctly.

    Guess maybe I would pull the gasket and look for signs of leakage around the edges (carbon tracks). If none, try one OEM gasket first and see if you can get it to seal without a leak. IF it looks like it actually had been leaking, I'd go with the double gasket trick.
     
  6. Mainer7

    Mainer7

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    I'm embarrased to say, but I've replaced the int/exh. manifold 3 times in the last 2 months trying to eliminate a leak. Well the leak ended up being the heat riser bushings in the exh. manifold and I was unable to remove them to put new ones in so I went with headers and abondoned the stock exh man.
    But I wa able to do the job well after so many times I had good luck with One OEM gasket and a pencil width bead of Permatex Ultra-Copper gasket sealant on both sides. All three times I used this method and now no leaks. Sorry if this doesn't help but just my .02

    (Also, the local Yota dealer had gaskets for around 20$)

    Happy Trails
     
  7. offcamber40

    offcamber40

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    I used copper high temp spray adhesive b/w the gaskets and Rtv'd only the exhaust ports (since they were the problem) on my MAF header. Ive used a couple of different gaskets trying to eliminate my leak, and the best results I had were the Toyota OEM F header/manifold gaskets. They are a metal crushing type gasket with divided ports for better sealability. Two of those with RTV on both sides of the gasket to the mating surfaces fixed my leaks. I replaced all my studs with slightly longer ones b/c of the warp in my headers and the extra width of the extra crush gasket.. I also tightened they hell out of the nuts, taking it way past spec, then retightened them after I warmed it up (just like a head gasket). Hope this helps.

    BTW, on the note of the cracked intake manifold, I had that problem too, and I cleaned everyhing up nice and JB welded it, so far its holding no probs. Not a nice fix, but cheap.

    Mike
     
  8. xumFJ40

    xumFJ40

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    Idave,

    The reason the truck doesn't run is because the carb needed to be re-built and the Ignitor was bad. I am in the process of fixing all of that.

    I will check the gasket for signs of leaks.

    Thanks,

    Ryan