more overheating questions (1 Viewer)

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Jun 10, 2005
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my 60 started overheating this past weekend (not all the way, about 3/4) while on the highway or sitting at idle. it would cool down when i turned on the heat though. so i flushed the system today and now it just over heats period. highway, town, idle, etc. turning on the doesn't work now either. i suspected it's the radiator, but now it just stays pegged (not in the red, but it's much closer than before the flush). is it the thermostat?
 
Probably have an air bubble in the system that prevents good circulation. Did your 'burp' the system?
 
no burping. i've heard the term here, but not quite gotten the gist. i'll look it up. wondering if i can do it in my work parking lot? it nearly overheated on the way to work. can i add just water in the mean time?
 
when i flushed my system after some getting hot conditions all it did was loosen some big chunks which then caused the radiator which then caused it to overheat all the time. burp the system, i hope that works but i bet you have blockage someplace.

performance radiator. its an easy job and the radiator is relatively cheap.
 
the new radiator option sure is more pricey than the burping option. is there any rule that the toyota radiator is better than aftermarket. i know this seems to be the case with most parts (i've never owned a LC but have had numerous 4runners and trucks), but sometimes it makes no difference. are the aftermarket radiators okay? sure are cheaper. this performance radiator is a pretty good price.
 
45lplive said:
the new radiator option sure is more pricey than the burping option. is there any rule that the toyota radiator is better than aftermarket. i know this seems to be the case with most parts (i've never owned a LC but have had numerous 4runners and trucks), but sometimes it makes no difference. are the aftermarket radiators okay? sure are cheaper. this performance radiator is a pretty good price.


Previous owner of mine replaced rediator at least once, maybe twice (don't have the receipts in front of me) so it sounds to me like they're average quality, but he might just have gotten ripped off. Replace the t-stat (cheap insurance) or test it (does it open in a pot of 180-190 degree water? can't remember what the spec is right now).

As far as "burping", take the radiator cap off (so you wouldn't want to do this after driving to work--ONLY WHEN COLD!), turn on heater and rear heater, and start her up. If coolant level is not close to filler neck, top off until it is. As it runs and coolant circulates it should flush any air bubbles out--keep topping off it the level drops. Once it reaches regular running temp shut it off and let it sit for a while. Might need to do that more than once--make sure you turn all heaters "on" so fluid ciruclates through all paths!

Another idea to look for blockages it to spray water on different parts of the radiator while engine's running--water boils off hot parts (hot is good), any blockages stay wet. Haven't done that myself--uncle says it works.
 
also helps to park truck on slight uphill slope so air bubble goto radiator faster. Or get cool funnel thing that attach to radiator neck for burping cooling system. If you look for excuses to buy more tools like me. (you can find it at carquest, or other parts store)
 
45lplive said:
is there any rule that the toyota radiator is better than aftermarket. i know this seems to be the case with most parts (i've never owned a LC but have had numerous 4runners and trucks), but sometimes it makes no difference. are the aftermarket radiators okay? sure are cheaper. this performance radiator is a pretty good price.

the performance radiator is a great one. i know 3 people with them in their trucks for a year or so now and they are still in tip top running order. i put one in my old FJ62 and would do it again in a heartbeat, in fact... my temp gague is starting to creep up again....
 
I went with a radiator from CCOT and wish I had not - they ran over the border and picked one up - it is fine and the quality is okay but...

When I get enough cash and quit sinking all my money into my 40 - I plan on buying the
direct bolt-in replacement aluminum radiators from MAF - http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/aluminumradiators.htm - I have heard it called bling and everything else on this board but it has to beat custom fabbing one in - (I have dual batteries on either side) and I want my 60 to run at 180 with the AC runnin and towing...so...

Now I use Purple Ice and water ( http://www.royalpurple.com/prodsa/prpice.html ) and the temp stays under 210 in the heat...
 
I used the Performance rad in both my 60 and 62, NO issues, its OEM or better IMOP, I would buy one again.

under $200 for a 60 series vrs $400 for OEM..........this is one case where I don't use OEM parts

peepers said:
the performance radiator is a great one. i know 3 people with them in their trucks for a year or so now and they are still in tip top running order. i put one in my old FJ62 and would do it again in a heartbeat, in fact... my temp gague is starting to creep up again....
 
Here's a question - when i bought my new therostat at Advanced Autoparts they gave me two choices of thermostats - one with a higher temp rating (winter driving - i guess) and one with a lower temp rating. My question is, if i would have bought the one with a lower temp rating, would my temp be lower while driving??
 
great, i'll try all these options. just want to run it realiably with the ac on.
 
Noah said:
Here's a question - when i bought my new therostat at Advanced Autoparts they gave me two choices of thermostats - one with a higher temp rating (winter driving - i guess) and one with a lower temp rating. My question is, if i would have bought the one with a lower temp rating, would my temp be lower while driving??

Yep,

I bought a 180 degree thermostat and then had to change out the chip on the TBI computer = more pulling power, cooler engine temps,

My seat of the pants horsepower meter says - yes!
 
To the overheating guy go to a local radiator shop and have him put his temp gauge up to your thermostat housing, radiator and exhaust manifold he did it to mine while the gauge was showing hot and everything checked out at the right temp., the problem turned out to be my gauge in the dash.
 
If I needed to replace my radiator again, (truck is working on third) I would replace it with one of these from Flex-A-Lite. These work extremely well, I've heard, and eliminate the need for a belt-driven fan. Pretty keen I'd say.

Radiator

:beer:
 

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