More Heater Hose (PHH) Tips (1 Viewer)

LINUS

Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
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I figured I'd better pass these on before I forgot what I did.

1. I was able to get up in there with a Dremel to cut the outer (pinned) clamp. A high speed steel cutting tip is what I used and it was the easiest part of the whole project.

2. Forget about pulling the top bolt on the heater tube. Just break the torque so you can rotate it after completely removing the bottom bolt.

3. I bought a Gearwrench set from Sears, and it was nice to have(translation- I didn't even get it dirty or use it - but who can argue with owning more tools?), but with long pattern wrenches you can get on the top bolthead with your box end(standard combination wrenches) and then use the box end of another wrench over the 1 side of the open end of the 12 and still get the same results. I know, some people don't like the wrench-on-wrench practice - but it works and those dang Gearwrenches aren't cheap, plus mine was too tight to not use some extra leverage that might strip out the rachet end of one of those things.

4. Unbolt the (2) 12mm bolts on your transmission dipstick line. You gain enough room to work to make this worth doing.

5. Armorall your new silicone hose. It will slide on so fast you'll be amazed.


I used the "pull your tire and liners" method for working underneath.
If you are worried about the trace amount of silicone spray, run water for a couple of days until you feel like changing out your coolant entirely. Just remember to do it before it starts getting cold.
 
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Lompoc, CA
Linus-
I'm planning on doing the PHH replacement today. Exactly which bolt does your step #3 refer to, the same one in #2? I must confess that I have not looked closely enough to have a clear mental picture of the layout. Thanks, BigMac
 

LINUS

Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Joined
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[quote author=BigMac link=board=2;threadid=3794;start=0#msg27852 date=1058625323]
Linus-
I'm planning on doing the PHH replacement today. Exactly which bolt does your step #3 refer to, the same one in #2? I must confess that I have not looked closely enough to have a clear mental picture of the layout. Thanks, BigMac
[/quote]

Yep. The upper bolt seemed to be only accessable from the top and is the real pain of the whole job.

Slee's site has some updated info under the tech info header that I familiarized myself with before starting. I borrowed somebody else's idea on not removing the top bolt. I really didn't see the need for complete removal, plus I doubt I would have ever gotten it back in. I thought I was doing pretty good just to get it broke loose enough to rotate the tube since it's in such an enclosed area.
 

Gumby

Supamod
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I took out the top bolt and rotated on the second bolt. I also removed the trans dipstick for a lot of extra room.
The pinned clamp was a headache. It might help to know how it clamps. The slot of the cotter pin goes around the strip of steel and turns to tighten. If you can turn the pin to loosen the clamp a bit so you can get a pair of side cutters on the strap and cut it, it should come apart pretty easy.
I spit on the hose to get it slippery. :D crude, but effective.
I have no problems with doubling up a wrench. More leverage equals less pressure to have the same torque. Less pressure gives more control, less chance of moving the wrench off of the ideal position, less chance of smashing your hand when it breaks loose.
 

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