I figured I'd better pass these on before I forgot what I did. 1. I was able to get up in there with a Dremel to cut the outer (pinned) clamp. A high speed steel cutting tip is what I used and it was the easiest part of the whole project. 2. Forget about pulling the top bolt on the heater tube. Just break the torque so you can rotate it after completely removing the bottom bolt. 3. I bought a Gearwrench set from Sears, and it was nice to have(translation- I didn't even get it dirty or use it - but who can argue with owning more tools?), but with long pattern wrenches you can get on the top bolthead with your box end(standard combination wrenches) and then use the box end of another wrench over the 1 side of the open end of the 12 and still get the same results. I know, some people don't like the wrench-on-wrench practice - but it works and those dang Gearwrenches aren't cheap, plus mine was too tight to not use some extra leverage that might strip out the rachet end of one of those things. 4. Unbolt the (2) 12mm bolts on your transmission dipstick line. You gain enough room to work to make this worth doing. 5. Armorall your new silicone hose. It will slide on so fast you'll be amazed. I used the "pull your tire and liners" method for working underneath. If you are worried about the trace amount of silicone spray, run water for a couple of days until you feel like changing out your coolant entirely. Just remember to do it before it starts getting cold.