Monstaliner no more. So…

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I had planned on removing and reapplying monstaliner to my cruiser.

I stripped 100% of the monstaliner, old clear coat, paint, etc. off the land cruiser. I chose to use citristrip, as nothing else performed as well as it. In most sections it took about three applications to get everything down to bare metal. The center of the hood took about eight applications. Time. Pressure washer.

This is how it looked before I started.
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During the process.


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I layered on the citrus strip. Covered with plastic to let it do its thing.
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After quite a few calls to monstaliner, they finally confirmed that there was no hope on the horizon that they would have anything shipping for the next several months.

So, no monstaliner.

I decided to go with a new product and process. One that I Believe is superior to anything else that I could have done. The other bed liners just don’t hold up to UV.

Welcome macropoxy 646.

This product is absolutely incredible.

After filling the holes left over from the fender flares and molding, I decided to apply my first coat of Macropoxy 646.

It took quite a few attempts to get the product to spray correctly with a great texture. A lot of fine-tuning.

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musthave

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of course, the color match of this product isn’t perfect. I was hoping for desert dune, it came close though.

After painting these sections, I was happy with the outcome and decided to continue to paint the rest of the vehicle.

So, I ended up with 2 full coats of Macropoxy 646. Then I painted it with two coats of desert dune metallic with a slight change in Tint. Finally, I went with two applications of clearcoat.

Oh, and somewhere along the way I decided to delete the roof rack. I really like the new look.

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musthave

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Finally, it is finished.

I then painted various parts a diamond aztec blue mica. Came out great!




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musthave

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Corner lights need to be replaced. The citrus strip got on them. I also need to take the bumper off, prep it, and paint it.

I have a little bit of overspray that I need to get cleaned up too.

Otherwise I am super happy with the outcome.
 
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musthave

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It’s really hard to get a great picture of the texture and paint. The clearcoat is super reflective. It seems even more so on a textured surface.

So, in early morning shot Might show it better.
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Well done!!!!
 
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wow too cool,

basicly same process just different product you say, is clear needed or just your touch?
 
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It’s really hard to get a great picture of the texture and paint. The clearcoat is super reflective. It seems even more so on a textured surface.

So, in early morning shot Might show it better.
View attachment 2806861View attachment 2806862
Did you roll that on or spray it on? (646)

What paint thickness do you have? The 646 goes on about 4-6 miles DFT per coat and then you have 2 coats of gloss over that, then 2 coast of clear. Are you pushing 12-60 mils DFT paint? That's really thick.

The 646 if a great product and will adhere very well as long as your prep was properly done (mostly that it was cleaned of oil and dust)

The 646 is incredibly durable, and it dries hard, not flexible like Monstaliner.
 

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wow too cool,

basicly same process just different product you say, is clear needed or just your touch?

Because I went with the desert dune metallic, I had to put a clear coat on. Otherwise the paint would scratch easily.
 
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How many socks did you go through? (646)
Ha!

I had a moderator delete my posts in a previous thread talking about Macropoxy 646 for exactly that reason......
 

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Did you roll that on or spray it on? (646)

What paint thickness do you have? The 646 goes on about 4-6 miles DFT per coat and then you have 2 coats of gloss over that, then 2 coast of clear. Are you pushing 12-60 mils DFT paint? That's really thick.

The 646 if a great product and will adhere very well as long as your prep was properly done (mostly that it was cleaned of oil and dust)

The 646 is incredibly durable, and it dries hard, not flexible like Monstaliner.
I sprayed it on. As you said, it goes on thick. The 2nd coat wasn't as much for thickness as it was to get some of the spots that came out with less coverage during the 1st coat. When monstaliner wasn't available I considered Line-X because I liked the thickness, but they wanted a crazy amount of money to do the cruiser. They're proud of their work, or process, or just like the color of cash. When I put the 646 on a frame off restoration I am working on, I was really pleased with how well it went on and impressed overall. That's when the thought occurred to do the cruiser with it. I'd guess that I'm at 40+ mils.

Everything was off the cruiser, not a spot of anything on it but metal. There was a coating on the metal itself that didn't come off, but I scuffed it with 220 just to be sure I had great adhesion. For once, oil and dust weren't an issue.

I am MUCH happier with the 646 than I was with Monstaliner. Don't get me wrong, it was great product. I would have stuck with it if it were available.

Someone already reached out to me about doing their LX470 with the same process. So, I'll see if I can duplicate it with improvements. 👍
 
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I sprayed it on. As you said, it goes on thick. The 2nd coat wasn't as much for thickness as it was to get some of the spots that came out with less coverage during the 1st coat. When monstaliner wasn't available I considered Line-X because I liked the thickness, but they wanted a crazy amount of money to do the cruiser. They're proud of their work, or process, or just like the color of cash. When I put the 646 on a frame off restoration I am working on, I was really pleased with how well it went on and impressed overall. That's when the thought occurred to do the cruiser with it. I'd guess that I'm at 40+ mils.

Everything was off the cruiser, not a spot of anything on it but metal. There was a coating on the metal itself that didn't come off, but I scuffed it with 220 just to be sure I had great adhesion. For once, oil and dust weren't an issue.

I am MUCH happier with the 646 than I was with Monstaliner. Don't get me wrong, it was great product. I would have stuck with it if it were available.

Someone already reached out to me about doing their LX470 with the same process. So, I'll see if I can duplicate it with improvements. 👍
If you use a much larger tip in your gun, you can get it to lay down smoother. We spray this product at work, but it's mostly done with an airless HVLP gun, so it's atomized by pressure, not mixing with air. It will give an orange peel finish, not quite as deep of valleys as what your finish has.

40 mils is super-thick. The biggest concern I would have with that thick on a body panel is that if the panel gets "oil-canned" and it will crack the edges of the paint, then pop off in large chunks. I would try to limit total paint thickness on body panels to about 15 mils TDFT.

Nice job! I think you're the first to actually do an entire truck in that paint! Keep us updated on how it's durability and longevity is on the truck.
 
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Crap! I was just warming up to Monstaliner for mine. I'm bummed to hear that it's NLA for a while.

How well does 646 hide imperfections?

Sorry to thread hijack, but @BILT4ME, since you use this at work, how smooth can it be with the HVLP gun? I've been wanting something with very minimal texture, but durable. Can you post photos of smooth application?
 

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Here is a good shot of the edges.

Hopefully it’s not too thick. I don’t feel like it is.

Kind of cool that it’s first one. I’ll update here on how it holds up.

I’ve got a little bit more to do to this Cruiser before it goes wheeling again. I hope to finish it up here in a few weeks and get it back on the trail.

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Crap! I was just warming up to Monstaliner for mine. I'm bummed to hear that it's NLA for a while.

How well does 646 hide imperfections?

Sorry to thread hijack, but @BILT4ME, since you use this at work, how smooth can it be with the HVLP gun? I've been wanting something with very minimal texture, but durable. Can you post photos of smooth application?
I think it hides imperfections better when you have a texture. As for the finish, I was able to get it smooth on a frame that I did recently.
 
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Crap! I was just warming up to Monstaliner for mine. I'm bummed to hear that it's NLA for a while.

How well does 646 hide imperfections?

Sorry to thread hijack, but @BILT4ME, since you use this at work, how smooth can it be with the HVLP gun? I've been wanting something with very minimal texture, but durable. Can you post photos of smooth application?
I will post a few pics when I find some. I don't have a way to search our jobs by paint product.

It realistically has an orange peel texture to it when properly applied. Take a look at a large orange (those big GMO Florida Oranges) and that's about the smoothness of the texture. Rolling hills and valleys, not sharp jagged edges and not "deep". It goes on thick and takes a full day to cure to handle. Do NOT let it sit in your gun, as the pot life is only a couple hours and your gun will be junk, as well as the hoses. We had a guy set down his gun, go do a couple things, then go to lunch and when he got back, a set of 50 ft hoses and a $1500 gun were junk.

Don't let it cure in the sun, as the top will crust over, then the bottom will flash through and it will craze and crack and you'll have to grind it off.

This product will hide imperfections well. It covers welds so they look like a smooth round bead of caulk under the paint. So, even if they have ridges, it fills them in.
 

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😂 yea, this stuff will ruin paint equipment quickly. Clean up immediately after use.

I wasn’t aware of issues drying in the sun. Luckily mine stayed in the booth overnight.

It covers imperfections very well. If you took off flares, welded holes, this would be perfect paint.

Great information @BILT4ME , I’ll keep that in mind as I do another one.
 
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The problem with epoxy is that it gets broken down by UV exposure. This why you typically see epoxy only as an indoor or only as a primer coat on exterior surfaces. IF epoxy is used for exterior surfaces they may be coated with a urethane with a UV blocker to protect the epoxy from UV. The pigments in epoxy will also act as a UV blocker for the layers below but the surface will get broken down by UV if it is also not protected. For those that might really want to know: The Effects of UV Light on the Chemical and Mechanical Properties of a Transparent Epoxy-Diamine System in the Presence of an Organic UV Absorber - https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5459211/


Update: SDS for Monstaliner, hard to find one http://www.autowaresgroup.com/msds/Chassis Saver//ML90RK2G.pdf
It's not an epoxy but uses isocyanates. So use all the isocyanate precautions when working with it.

Macropoxy 646 is an epoxy coating
 
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