Sssshhhh...no one want's to believe this. No one understands octane ratings, and if you purchase 87 at the pump you might get 92. If it's not pinging, don't worry about it. People want to believe the high performance comes from the fuel, not that their high performance engines require the fuel.
Spent three years working at an oil and fuel distributor in Louisiana. Every tank we supplied fuel or oil(exxon/mobil branded) had an electronic guage connected to the internet connected to our dispatchers office. He could tell what was in their tanks before the station or oil change businesses even knew what was in their tanks and auto dispatched accordingly. This was in 2009. I imagine this technology is pretty prevalent in the country by now.Hah!
Actually what happens is that unscrupulous station/store owners purposely 'Over Order' low octane fuel. Then when the tank won't hold it....the driver is forced to 'dump' the remaining fuel in the next octane tank up (if it will hold it). When we had vendors that would do this very often, we would cut them off and report them the Texas Railroad Commission.
So if anything....you are probably getting 'diluted' fuel.
Spent three years working at an oil and fuel distributor in Louisiana. Every tank we supplied fuel or oil(exxon/mobil branded) had an electronic guage connected to the internet connected to our dispatchers office. He could tell what was in their tanks before the station or oil change businesses even knew what was in their tanks and auto dispatched accordingly. This was in 2009. I imagine this technology is pretty prevalent in the country by now.
Just because you do it that way doesn't mean it's the only way. I also use Fuelly. I can fill my tank any time I want and calculate average MPG, I can fill it when it's already 3/4 full if I wanted!I only calculate my average MPG when I fill up and I do them with Fuelly, not the trip computer. I can't think of anything else that would influence the mileage that much over the SAME route/speeds/weather, etc. I always start the trip with a full tank and use 3/4 tank or more on the way to the track. Then fill up before the return trip. If I do the same trip the next week, the mileage can either stay the same or vary up to 1.5MPG, which when we are dealing with single digit numbers, is significant.
No, I didn't have any CELs. I just noticed my MPG was inconsistent one day vs. another or on long trips vs. short trips. I also noticed my truck smelled like gas fumes a lot, but now it doesn't.@J1000 So did you charcoal canister give you any CEL before you redid you Charcoal can? Its not like anyone would just try to mess with this unless any CEL are thrown. Especially for the folks that live in a emissions state/city. The CEL for this is a long long list of items that if messed up is a PITA to fix.
Just because you do it that way doesn't mean it's the only way. I also use Fuelly. I can fill my tank any time I want and calculate average MPG, I can fill it when it's already 3/4 full if I wanted!
Maybe experiment and you will notice things you hadn't before.
Putting in a ScanGuage had an immediate impact on MPG.
How about actually calculating gas milegae based on a full tank divided by the number of gallons put into the tank.
Great list! Thank you. Definately going to do 2, probably 3 and maybe 4. Inflating tires in winter up here is a no-no, but for summer driving fore sure.Some advice from my personal experience (2006 VVT-i 5 Spd):
Listed in order of biggest effect to smallest:
1. If your tires are large diameter than stock, you need to increase your indicated MPG by the difference in diameter from the stock tires. Also inflate to higher than the reccomended pressure for highway driving.
2. I changed my front O2's and changed the gear oil in all 3 differentials from Mobil HD 80W-90 dino to Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 synthetic. I noticed an improvement of around 0.33 to 0.50 MPG. Don't know which made the bigger difference, both were done on the same day. Gear oil makes a bigger difference in colder climates and shorter average trip lengths.
3. Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant seems to help. Buy an 8 oz bottle and a gallon at Wally World. Fill the 8-oz from the gallon and put it in with each full tank. Seems to improve around 0.1 to 0.2 MPG for minimal cost. Found out about that stuff from the head tech guru for the BMW Club of America.
4. Don't run overly thick motor oil. 5W-30 is enough for good oil pressure, and Toyota started factory filling with 5W-20 around February 2006. If you're concerned about ZDDP, buy a bottle of racing motor oil and blend a little bit in to boost the Zn-P.
5. Get a cleanable air filter. I'm running a AFE Pro Dry S. Clean once a year or no more than 20k miles.
I'm getting around 15 MPG in mostly highway driving (prob about 70% highway). I've verified this by checking trip ODO against gallons used.
I have seen (corrected for tire size) just under 17 MPG when getting on the highway just after refuelling and checking the tip computer before slowing down or stopping.
Thanks for that. EVAP system seems to be something to consider but why would refreshing the hoses make a difference? Do they leak, crack, clog or plug off somehow?Like NoTempoLimit said, larger diameter tires than stock affect the odometer readings and by extension, your calculated MPG. In our case, stock LC has 31" diameter tires and I'm running 33" diameter tires. The adjustment is 33/31 = 1.06 meaning for every mile your odometer reads, you actually traveled 6% farther. You can apply the correction factor to your odometer reading OR to your MPG calculation. Either way, you'll get the same MPG result.
Ex: 250 miles on odometer / 18 gallon fill-up = 13.88 MPG. Multiply that by 1.06 correction = 14.7 MPG (corrected)
Ex: 250 miles on odometer x 1.06 correction = 265 miles driven. Divide by 18 gallon fill-up = 14.7 MPG (corrected)
BTW, the correction factor also applies to your speedometer. You're actually driving 6% faster than the speedo shows. Try comparing vehicle speedometer to a GPS based speed readout on your phone/GPS.
With bigger AT or MT tires, you can safely fill to higher pressure for pavement driving. I use 40 PSI cold for street driving with AT tires, there is significant MPG gain on the highway with higher tire pressures. City driving you won't notice it as much with all the accelerating from a stop.
Also, rehabbing your EVAP system can improve MPG if the system is not working efficiently. You often will not have any CEL codes or obvious signs of problems with the EVAP system. EVAP, in part, helps capture fuel vapors and reintroduces it into the intake stream, reducing emissions, but also improving fuel efficiency. The cheapest way is just to take 3/4" fuel line hose from the auto parts store and cut to length to replace all the sections in the EVAP system. The valves in the EVAP system and on the carbon canister are also available as spare parts either OEM or rock-auto, etc. The carbon canister itself is kind of hard to service and replacement can be expensive.
You might also want to replace PCV valve stuff. Wit's End has a kit:
No wonder I get better mileage in a Blizzard!My cruiser gets a very consistent 13 mpg.
Good Cruiser mileage is not a thing. Not really a Toyota thing. Reliability is Toyota's focus.
Fantastic fuel economy is like any other high performance goal. Diminishing returns and compromises to reliability.
If you can get the top gear in the best rpm range and stay there at 45-50 mph for a long trip then you can get much better mileage.