Moderate 06 LX470 Soccer Mom SUV to Moderate Multi-Use Build (1 Viewer)

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Hi everyone,
I haven’t posted in the 100 Series section much, but have always been heavily involved in the 80 Series (Builds - 80 Build Thread - PreWork & 1 Weekend) (80 was sold to Mud member a few years back) and 4th Gen T4R area for Steel City Racing 4x4 (Builds - Steel City Racing: King of the Hammers 2019 Toyota 4Runner IFS 4600 Build Thread).


My wife upgraded to a new ‘21 Sienna a couple weeks ago, which means my 87 Turbo 22RTE ('87 Turbo Restoration and Build - YotaTech Forums) has become my Family Nice Weather Truck and I get to take the reins on the 145K Mile ‘06 LX470 as my DD 😃 while also having the 4602 as the dedicated off-road and KOH style racing vehicle.

It’s 100% stock today with the exception of LED headlights and fog lights. And it also 100% looks like a soccer mom car today! White isn’t my favorite LX color (love the Cypress Pearl) but it’s one of the nicest LXs out there and I think I can make the White look good.

So, in my typical style, we’ve got to upgrade it some and make it my own! We’re also going to be spending more time in MT in the Summers and deep Winters, so it needs to be ready for any adventure.

I’m not good at keeping things Moderate, so I’m literally forcing myself to stay grounded on this one. Here’s the initial plan:

- Dissent Ultra High Clearance Aluminum Front Bumper with Amber Rigid SAE Fog Lights in Gray color (Ordered - thanks for the help @benc)

- Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum for snowy conditions and general summer hard work in MT (Ordered - Warn is my 2x winch partner on the 4602 and I wouldn’t use anything else! Having the remote will be convenient when I am solo or with the family and want to keep them out of harms way.)

- Still deciding between 275/70r18 Cooper AT3 XLTs or 275/70r18 BFG KO2s - We run STT Pros on the 4602 and they have done amazing. But I’ve also had outstanding performance from every KO2 I’ve owned and run them on the ‘87 Turbo 4Runner (Not ordered - waiting on a good Black Friday deal)

- Stock LX470 Wheels with 1.25” BOLA Spacers (already ordered) so the 275/70r18s sit flush with the exterior instead of inset as they are now.

- ProSpeedRack - I’m still debating whether I want the single row 42” LED cutout or not. The lighting would be nice, but the rack looks cleaner without it. We may eventually have a RTT, but for now it’s for regular gear and looks. It’ll match the Dissent front bumper in Gray color.

-I definitely want to keep AHC. As an engineer, I love the design of the system, the ride is incredible, I can go H when needed, and overall believe it is superior to any alternative on the market for Diverse conditions. So long as it’s working, I plan on keeping it

- Remove the running boards and mount a 275/70 spare in the stock location assuming it’ll fit (I need to measure this). I may add OEM Front Mudflaps to protect the underside, but we'll see if they are truly needed.

- Right now I don’t have any plans for Sliders (unless it turns out that the kids can’t get in without them - then I’ll probably get some Metal Tech slider steps) or the rear bumper (again, trying to stay grounded on this build and also want to keep weight down).

I may eventually try to add a factory rear locker from the earlier models, but that’ll be down the line and probably unnecessary for this build. We already have the 4602 for any true Hardcore trails, so this needs to stay “Moderate” for DD, Camping, Snowy Conditions, General Work, and Family life with decent MPGs).

As always I’m open to any and all suggestions on mods, opinions, or revisions. And I have a few questions I’ll need advice on too. Thanks for following.
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Kabanstva

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I would think twice about putting an aftermarket front bumper on your truck since you have the night view option. Maybe @nukegoat can chime in.

I wonder if removing the night view will throw any codes on the dash.
 
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So, my first question is on the AHC Height Settings and/or Crank the Torsion Bars with the Dissent Ultra High Clearance Aluminum + Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum. Or will the system “handle” it without a lot of modifications?

The Aluminum is certainly lite, but the whole setup still adds weight.

Do you all think I will need to adjust a lot after the install (parts arriving in late Jan)? From what I have read, AHC will “compensate”, but I may need to crank the OEM AHC torsion bars 1-2 full rotations to keep a 50:50 split between AHC and Torsion Bar weight distribution.

Note that I may also want to bump the front height a small amount (0.5” or so maybe) just to get it a bit more level F to R. I want the system to ride as close to stock as possible and don’t plan on touching the rear at all. I just want it to look level and handle the additional weight in the front well while still handling like it does today.

Is there any way this can be done simply without having to get into Techstream AHC Level Adjustments? I’ve read all the posts and would just rather not go there if I don’t have to 😂.
 
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I would think twice about putting an aftermarket front bumper on your truck since you have the night view option. Maybe @nukegoat can chime in.

I wonder if removing the night view will throw any codes on the dash.
Well, that was another question I had. I was actually considering installing the night vision “eyes” in as close to factory spacing as I can in the Dissent front bumper (already ordered BTW) outside the fog light areas. It may not be possible, but I have been thinking about that. No matter what, I won’t be “cutting” them off and risking throwing a code. I’m also keeping the front bumper in case I ever want to go back “stock” some day so the system needs to remain “intact”.
 

bamabrock

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Well, that was another question I had. I was actually considering installing the night vision “eyes” in as close to factory spacing as I can in the Dissent front bumper (already ordered BTW) outside the fog light areas. It may not be possible, but I have been thinking about that. No matter what, I won’t be “cutting” them off and risking throwing a code. I’m also keeping the front bumper in case I ever want to go back “stock” some day so the system needs to remain “intact”.
Quite a few of us here in Birmingham in DLC have 100 series trucks and have regular wrench days. AL- DixieLand Cruisers
 
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Quite a few of us here in Birmingham in DLC have 100 series trucks and have regular wrench days. AL- DixieLand Cruisers
Thanks. I used to be involved more with the Dixieland Cruisers group when I had the 80 Series. I’m going to be compiling all parts and then may hit you all up for some helping hands in Jan/Feb! The last event I did with you all was MardiKrawl probabiy 3-4 years ago! Good times!
 

bamabrock

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Thanks. I used to be involved more with the Dixieland Cruisers group when I had the 80 Series. I’m going to be compiling all parts and then may hit you all up for some helping hands in Jan/Feb! The last event I did with you all was MardiKrawl probabiy 3-4 years ago! Good times!
We had an influx of new guys, so we completely rebooted it about three years ago with the remaining prior members, incorporating it with the state as a legit nonprofit, social club and rejoined TLCA. We now have monthly meetings, wrench days, wheeling/overlanding trips, social events with spouses (including a Christmas party next month), etc. I have a list of stuff to do on my LX including swapping the AHC out, so there are a few 100s all needing work. We usually have a heated and cooled shop to work in and knock out a lot of projects on wrench days. Get up with us!

We're on mud and FB. DixieLand Cruisers
 

Kabanstva

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So, my first question is on the AHC Height Settings and/or Crank the Torsion Bars with the Dissent Ultra High Clearance Aluminum + Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum. Or will the system “handle” it without a lot of modifications?

The Aluminum is certainly lite, but the whole setup still adds weight.

Do you all think I will need to adjust a lot after the install (parts arriving in late Jan)? From what I have read, AHC will “compensate”, but I may need to crank the OEM AHC torsion bars 1-2 full rotations to keep a 50:50 split between AHC and Torsion Bar weight distribution.

Note that I may also want to bump the front height a small amount (0.5” or so maybe) just to get it a bit more level F to R. I want the system to ride as close to stock as possible and don’t plan on touching the rear at all. I just want it to look level and handle the additional weight in the front well while still handling like it does today.

Is there any way this can be done simply without having to get into Techstream AHC Level Adjustments? I’ve read all the posts and would just rather not go there if I don’t have to 😂.

I got a Dissent aluminum front with a Warn Zeon 12S and the steel Dissent no-cut rear with two 33" spares and the AHC handled it just fine...it wasn't dropping into Low mode and I didn't touch any of the torsion bars, system just leveled it all out on its own. Ride was just like stock. Also I have the Dissent roof rack, full Dissent skids, and Cruisin Offroad sliders and the stock AHC system handled all this extra weight just fine. I imagine if you're going to load up the trunk full of gear for some trip, you might run into issues but you can replace the rear springs with the Kings which is a super cheap mod and raises your load capacity several hundred pounds over stock springs.

I have long since removed the AHC system but more so for simplicity sake, not because it wasn't handling the extra weight of the "armor".
 

nukegoat

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Well, that was another question I had. I was actually considering installing the night vision “eyes” in as close to factory spacing as I can in the Dissent front bumper (already ordered BTW) outside the fog light areas. It may not be possible, but I have been thinking about that. No matter what, I won’t be “cutting” them off and risking throwing a code. I’m also keeping the front bumper in case I ever want to go back “stock” some day so the system needs to remain “intact”.
You won't throw a code without them
 
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I got a Dissent aluminum front with a Warn Zeon 12S and the steel Dissent no-cut rear with two 33" spares and the AHC handled it just fine...it wasn't dropping into Low mode and I didn't touch any of the torsion bars, system just leveled it all out on its own. Ride was just like stock. Also I have the Dissent roof rack, full Dissent skids, and Cruisin Offroad sliders and the stock AHC system handled all this extra weight just fine. I imagine if you're going to load up the trunk full of gear for some trip, you might run into issues but you can replace the rear springs with the Kings which is a super cheap mod and raises your load capacity several hundred pounds over stock springs.

I have long since removed the AHC system but more so for simplicity sake, not because it wasn't handling the extra weight of the "armor".
Awesome. This is my plan then! Thanks so much for confirming!
 

suprarx7nut

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So, my first question is on the AHC Height Settings and/or Crank the Torsion Bars with the Dissent Ultra High Clearance Aluminum + Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum. Or will the system “handle” it without a lot of modifications?

The Aluminum is certainly lite, but the whole setup still adds weight.

Do you all think I will need to adjust a lot after the install (parts arriving in late Jan)? From what I have read, AHC will “compensate”, but I may need to crank the OEM AHC torsion bars 1-2 full rotations to keep a 50:50 split between AHC and Torsion Bar weight distribution.

Note that I may also want to bump the front height a small amount (0.5” or so maybe) just to get it a bit more level F to R. I want the system to ride as close to stock as possible and don’t plan on touching the rear at all. I just want it to look level and handle the additional weight in the front well while still handling like it does today.

Is there any way this can be done simply without having to get into Techstream AHC Level Adjustments? I’ve read all the posts and would just rather not go there if I don’t have to 😂.

You may want to go check out my Cypress LX Build. It's an 06 with full armor (aluminum from Dissent) with a winch, 2nd battery, dual compressor, SS1 platform with dual drawers, etc... Probably similar enough to offer some data points for consideration on your build.

AHC will handle it just fine, but you'll want to adjust the torsion bars after all the weight is added and if you do a bumper and/or storage system in the back you'll want to update the rear springs to King. If you're not doing much in the rear, then just 30mm coil spacers from Slee are great and cheap. I've got a video on Youtube that's been pretty well-received and covers the basics of tuning AHC for an armored build.

IMO, extra weight doesn't make AHC any more or less suitable. You just need to calibrate/tune the system to whatever common loadout you'll have for trails so you can reliably get up into H when needed. It's an awesome system. I'm a big fan.

Also, I weighed all components as I installed/removed. The aluminum front bumper and winch added a lot of weight. The rear bumper added nearly nothing, to my surprise. The aluminum dissent setup is amazing. Well gusseted and very light. On the rear I think I gained a net 40 lbs with a full rear bumper with dual swingouts. The OEM under-car spare tire brackets are all very heavy. Removing those when you move the tire to a swingout makes for a very small net weight gain.

Welcome! Excited to see what you do!
 
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You may want to go check out my Cypress LX Build. It's an 06 with full armor (aluminum from Dissent) with a winch, 2nd battery, dual compressor, SS1 platform with dual drawers, etc... Probably similar enough to offer some data points for consideration on your build.

AHC will handle it just fine, but you'll want to adjust the torsion bars, AHC height adjusters, or rear coils after all the weight is added and if you do a bumper and/or storage system in the back you'll want to update the rear springs to King. If you're not doing much in the rear, then just 30mm coil spacers from Slee are great and cheap. I've got a video on Youtube that's been pretty well-received and covers the basics of tuning AHC for an armored build.

IMO, extra weight doesn't make AHC any more or less suitable. You just need to calibrate/tune the system to whatever common loadout you'll have for trails so you can reliably get up into H when needed. It's an awesome system. I'm a big fan.

Also, I weighed all components as I installed/removed. The aluminum front bumper and winch added a lot of weight. The rear bumper added nearly nothing, to my surprise. The aluminum dissent setup is amazing. Well gusseted and very light. On the rear I think I gained a net 40 lbs with a full rear bumper with dual swingouts. The OEM under-car spare tire brackets are all very heavy. Removing those when you move the tire to a swingout makes for a very small net weight gain.

Welcome! Excited to see what you do!
Thanks, your build sounds really cool. Since I have the 4602 4Runner, I really think I’m going to keep the rear stock for now. My 4Runner’s F/R Bumpers, Sliders, and Full Skids from Luke at 4x4Labs were all made from AR400 (KOH hardly even scratched them) so for anything that requires armor, I’ll be using the 4Runner 😃 including any moderate overlanding type trails like the Rubicon of Moab.

Really impressed the rear bumper added such little NET weight though. I’m hoping I don’t even have to touch the Torsion bars with my “extra lite” setup as another user mentioned above, but I guess we’ll see!
 

suprarx7nut

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Thanks, your build sounds really cool. Since I have the 4602 4Runner, I really think I’m going to keep the rear stock for now. My 4Runner’s F/R Bumpers, Sliders, and Full Skids from Luke at 4x4Labs were all made from AR400 (KOH hardly even scratched them) so for anything that requires armor, I’ll be using the 4Runner 😃 including any moderate overlanding type trails like the Rubicon of Moab.

Really impressed the rear bumper added such little NET weight though. I’m hoping I don’t even have to touch the Torsion bars with my “extra lite” setup as another user mentioned above, but I guess we’ll see!

Yeah, if you're adding relatively little weight you probably won't have to adjust much. You might have to adjust more for any previously neglected pressure checks than for any weight that you're adding.

Oh, another note, the ATRAC system works really well, IMO. If you're not adding sliders and skids, a locker retrofit seems wasteful. Give ATRAC some trial runs and see what you think. Plenty of people prefer ATRAC to a single locked axle or even triple locked. Especially if we're talking slick terrain more than rock crawling. I was planning on lockers on mine initially, but after a year of mild wheeling with ATRAC I might just leave it be. It does work quite well and you don't have to worry about when to engage/disengage/binding on turns, etc...

On tires, I'd recommend the KO2's. Between my friends/coworkers and I, I've seen a multitude of quality problems on the Coopers in the last few years (sidewall blisters, cupping, excessive noise, etc...) at what should be half life. The KO2 seems much more reliably good as the miles rack up. My 275/70/18 KO2 are a little noisy now at around 25-30k miles, but no obvious cupping or defects and they've had a lot of wheeling time. Hard to beat em.
 
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Yeah, if you're adding relatively little weight you probably won't have to adjust much. You might have to adjust more for any previously neglected pressure checks than for any weight that you're adding.

Oh, another note, the ATRAC system works really well, IMO. If you're not adding sliders and skids, a locker retrofit seems wasteful. Give ATRAC some trial runs and see what you think. Plenty of people prefer ATRAC to a single locked axle or even triple locked. Especially if we're talking slick terrain more than rock crawling. I was planning on lockers on mine initially, but after a year of mild wheeling with ATRAC I might just leave it be. It does work quite well and you don't have to worry about when to engage/disengage/binding on turns, etc...

On tires, I'd recommend the KO2's. Between my friends/coworkers and I, I've seen a multitude of quality problems on the Coopers in the last few years (sidewall blisters, cupping, excessive noise, etc...) at what should be half life. The KO2 seems much more reliably good as the miles rack up. My 275/70/18 KO2 are a little noisy now at around 25-30k miles, but no obvious cupping or defects and they've had a lot of wheeling time. Hard to beat em.
Thanks, that’s good to know. The AHC system works flawlessly, so hopefully no adjustments needed. But I also know it hasn’t been flushed in 50K miles, so it’s probably time for a flush and check of all the levels.

and I forgot about ATRAC being on the LX. You’re right - ATRAC plus CDL is more than enough for what this LC will see. Sold!

On the tires, we ran the Cooper STT Pros at KOH for 2-years, including all named JV rock trails except 1 or 2 last year and didn’t have a single issue all at 17 psi at race speed. I have KO2s on the 87 Turbo and they have been great. But I objectively looked at reviews for the Cooper AT3 XLT vs KO2 today for a few house and most prefer AT3 XLT especially in the rain. The only drawback to them is the sidewalk isn’t quite as strong as the KO2 (which is fine for my use), but they rank higher in just about every other category (ride quality, noise, traction in diverse conditions, longevity, etc). And of course, they are made in the USA.

I agree the KO2s are tried and true and love mine. But am really leaning toward the Cooper AT3 XLTs after all my reading today!
 
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Flipped Bezel

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Nice LX @Charles4x4!! Looking forward to seeing your mod choices for your wife's old grocery getter! I am running Cooper LT285/70 17's on RW wheels with 1.25" spacers and have had great results with mine.

The BFGs are a consensus choice for many LC owners here on MUD, but in defense of the AT3s, I have over 74k miles on my set so far and and my remaining tread depth is still right at 11/64ths on all four corners. They have seen a roughly 85%/15% split of pavement vs. gravel in pretty demanding hot climate temperatures in south LA/south TX. I have been fairly vigilant in my rotation schedule at 5k to 6k miles in between rotations.

They were extremely easy to get balanced and so far I have only suffered 1 puncture in the tread footprint from a sheet metal screw that I picked up somewhere. I achieved this durability result on these these tires using them on on oilfield work locations and roads that were virtual minefields of welding rod stubs/wire pieces/metal debris. There is some wear from the sharply jagged type of crushed rock (caliche) used to build roads/work locations down in S. TX but there is no chunking of tread block edges and I have been impressed by how even the wear on them has been. The bottom picture below only shows the center tread block depth but both side blocks near tire edge on all 4 tires also measured 11/64". I didn't get a measurement less than 10.5/64" anywhere.

I have seen no issues with manufacturing or wear defects showing up, but I am pretty sure that they can arise on most any brand of tire regardless of name brand reputation. They were always pretty quiet and gave me EXCELLENT wet surface traction especially on the rain covered and puddled highways where I operate. I bought this set before the more aggressive sidewall construction and XLT version debuted and will not hesitate to purchase these made in the USA tires again. My experience tells me that you can buy with confidence and know that they will perform as expected in the Dirty South and wet weather conditions on and off road.

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Nice LX @Charles4x4!! Looking forward to seeing your mod choices for your wife's old grocery getter! I am running Cooper LT285/70 17's on RW wheels with 1.25" spacers and have had great results with mine.

The BFGs are a consensus choice for many LC owners here on MUD, but in defense of the AT3s, I have over 74k miles on my set so far and and my remaining tread depth is still right at 11/64ths on all four corners. They have seen a roughly 85%/15% split of pavement vs. gravel in pretty demanding hot climate temperatures in south LA/south TX. I have been fairly vigilant in my rotation schedule at 5k to 6k miles in between rotations.

They were extremely easy to get balanced and so far I have only suffered 1 puncture in the tread footprint from a sheet metal screw that I picked up somewhere. I achieved this durability result on these these tires using them on on oilfield work locations and roads that were virtual minefields of welding rod stubs/wire pieces/metal debris. There is some wear from the sharply jagged type of crushed rock (caliche) used to build roads/work locations down in S. TX but there is no chuncking of tread block edges and I have been impressed by how even the wear on them has been.

I have seen no issues with manufacturing or wear defects showing up, but I am pretty sure that they can arise on most any brand of tire regardless of name brand reputation. They were always pretty quiet and gave me EXCELLENT wet surface traction especially on the rain covered and puddled highways where I operate. I bought this set before the more aggressive sidewall construction and XLT version debuted and will not hesitate to purchase these made in the USA tires again. My experience tells me that you can buy with confidence and know that they will perform as expected in the Dirty South and wet weather conditions on and off road.

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Awesome post! If you don't mind, I'm going to pass this along to Cooper as well. Even more validation for the Cooper AT3 XLTs - and real-world experience far beyond what my own research could have provided. Thank you so much for posting!
 
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