Mobil 1 synthetic grease nlgi no 2

[2001LC]

Someone reacted to an old post of mine in this thread in which I said I was having trouble getting the drive shaft to extend.

For future searchers, I thought I’d say that I’ve since done this many times, and I think I followed @2001LC ’s advice (in another thread?) to pump it in until the shaft moved, wait a bit for it to return, and then repeat. Eventually the grease started to come through as it should, and it has done so readily every time since.

I only do the pump extend wait, pump extend wait repeatedly until grease passes seal. In very difficult cases these days. Those I use the thinner #1 grease w/moly.

When Toyota change recommendation in the 200 series. To only pump in grease until first extension is seen and than stop greasing. I change to this!

 

[tjb]

I only do the pump extend wait, pump extend wait repeatedly until grease passes seal. In very difficult cases these days. Those I use the thinner #1 grease w/moly.

When Toyota change recommendation in the 200 series. To only pump in grease until first extension is seen and than stop greasing. I change to this!

Thanks for jumping in with that.

Since the first time I did it myself (and the grease didn’t show, and I finally saw some with the pump/extend/wait/repeat method), I think grease now passes the seal right after that first movement. But it may be that I have been continuing with the repeat method. Will pay more attention next time.

As for difficult cases, my ‘06 had a very impressive maintenance record (all on time, all dealer), but as I am performing my second round of things like re-packing bearings (and comparing the condition of the grease I put in there 30,000 miles ago to the memory of what I saw when I first did it), it seems the dealers might not have been as assiduous as they claimed. Often times the maintenance record only says “120,000 mile service completed”, and the dealer assured me that meant they did everything on the list. Not so sure that was the case.

 

[timjtitus]

I only do the pump extend wait, pump extend wait repeatedly until grease passes seal. In very difficult cases these days. Those I use the thinner #1 grease w/moly.

When Toyota change recommendation in the 200 series. To only pump in grease until first extension is seen and than stop greasing. I change to this!

Gonna grease my driveshafts this weekend. So Mobil 1 nlgi 2 for the lsds and what for the spiders?

 

[Mark WV]

Just my 2 cents:

mobile 1 for the u-joints (I think we all agree on this) (or any good quality high temp wheel bearing grease)

however my thinking is nlgi 1 lithium or general purpose grease for the slip joints
- thinner grease flows better. I want the centrifugal force of the spinning drive shaft to force the grease into the splines between greasing, not just while I am pumping grease in.

I have disassembled the shafts on several of my vehicles to clean out the old grease, and found the splines dry, but the inside of the shaft still contained significant amounts of dried red grease that would not flow. Thus my personal opinion is that the heavier nlgi 2 greases do not flow well unless subjected to the higher temperature of a wheel bearing/ hub.

 

[timjtitus]

Just my 2 cents:

mobile 1 for the u-joints (I think we all agree on this) (or any good quality high temp wheel bearing grease)

however my thinking is nlgi 1 lithium or general purpose grease for the slip joints
- thinner grease flows better. I want the centrifugal force of the spinning drive shaft to force the grease into the splines between greasing, not just while I am pumping grease in.

I have disassembled the shafts on several of my vehicles to clean out the old grease, and found the splines dry, but the inside of the shaft still contained significant amounts of dried red grease that would not flow. Thus my personal opinion is that the heavier nlgi 2 greases do not flow well unless subjected to the higher temperature of a wheel bearing/ hub.

So you’d use Mobil 1 for all of them?

 

[Mark WV]

So you’d use Mobil 1 for all of them?

Mobile 1 in the u-joints

lithium general purpose grease in the slip joint/ drive shaft.

 

[2001LC]

Gonna grease my driveshafts this weekend. So Mobil 1 nlgi 2 for the lsds and what for the spiders?

Same in spiders, is fine!

Just my 2 cents:

mobile 1 for the u-joints (I think we all agree on this) (or any good quality high temp wheel bearing grease)

however my thinking is nlgi 1 lithium or general purpose grease for the slip joints
- thinner grease flows better. I want the centrifugal force of the spinning drive shaft to force the grease into the splines between greasing, not just while I am pumping grease in.

I have disassembled the shafts on several of my vehicles to clean out the old grease, and found the splines dry, but the inside of the shaft still contained significant amounts of dried red grease that would not flow. Thus my personal opinion is that the heavier nlgi 2 greases do not flow well unless subjected to the higher temperature of a wheel bearing/ hub.

The Mobil 1 #2 (red), is a high speed (HS) grease. Our wheel bearings & spiders (aka u-joints) use high speed grease.

Whereas the thinner #1 grease does flow better. I use #2 normally, in slide yokes of propeller shafts. I'll use the #1 w/moly to get loosened-up in difficult cases. But switch back too #2 in time. # 1 is fine all the time, but needs lubing more often and harder to find supplies. In the side yokes we can use HS or EP (extreme pressure) greases.

Removing propeller shaft and clean yokes, I save as last resort.
Here's how prioritize:
1) Normal lube until 1st extension.
2) Still clunk after lube. Use #1 w/moly next service. Pump until first extension, pause until recede "repeat" until grease passes seal. Remove grease zerk and bleed off excess pressure/grease.
3) Can't get to flow and or still clunk. Remove and clean out slide yoke.

Note:
Test splines of slide yoke for play. Grab yoke in one hand and shaft in other, Twist. Any play replace propeller shaft assembly.

Note: If grease passes seals easily. That generally is a clue, it was very under lubed. These splines typical will have excessive wear (play).

 

[tjb]

The Mobil 1 #2 (red), is a high speed (HS) grease.

I’ve been operating under a “Mobil 1 #2 is good all around” notion, and wonder if that’s OK if you’re not experiencing clunks, etc.

 

[2001LC]

YEAP. I use all around on stock 100 series.

Some aftermarket ball joints are grease-able. Those I use manufactures recommended grease. They take EP moly in most cases.

 

[OwnerCS]

I think this thread is refreshing because it looks at different grease products, characteristics, and approaches for solving the problem.

Past experience with my other Toyota truck, I felt like I was doing something wrong because I used a grease gun and didn't use Ford grease from a tub.

 

[saracd70]

This an update on my post at the top of page 2, commenting on pfran42's post...

Was under the LX yesterday to grease shafts and u-joints. Front was perfect, with grease exuding 360 around the splined shaft.

Rear began leaking again at the diff (tubular shaft side) rear end. I pulled the rear shaft and noted that there is a metal disc (I'd call it a welch plug) at the end of the tubular shaft. It appears that the disc/plug is staked in, and that's where the grease leaks once a bit of pressure builds up.

Plan to fix...

Remove male/front shaft. Remove the seal from the front of the female shaft. Remove the u-joint. Remove the plug. Hot-tank the rear side, and brush any residue out (I have a few brass brushes from www.brownells.com originally designed to clean grenade launchers). Silver-braze the plug back onto the shaft. And reassemble in reverse order.

Comments??

Steve

Thanks, hankinid, for your advice now it's working perfectly. The brushes at Brownells are very good. I used the BROWNELLS Brass Chamber Brush, the price is a bit high £59.25. I was lucky I tried Brownells discount code 10​

 

[zaks]

What grease are you guys using, moly or regular lithium #2? For my 97 4runner manual says moly in yokes and lithium in spiders, but I couldn't see anything for my 04 Land Cruiser.
Also, how many pumps are you doing as maintenance every 3-5k miles?

 

[abuck99]

Anything with needle type bearings shouldn't get moly (Ujoint spiders have needle type bearings) I also wouldn't use it in roller type bearings (wheel bearings). Slip joint/slip yoke could take moly- but in my experience, the heat created in that joint dries out moly type grease fairly quickly and cakes in the cavity making it hard to pump new grease in and have it pass the seal- so if using moly it requires more frequent drive shaft slip joint service- that is removal, clean it out and reassembly.

 

[zaks]

Anything with needle type bearings shouldn't get moly (Ujoint spiders have needle type bearings) I also wouldn't use it in roller type bearings (wheel bearings). Slip joint/slip yoke could take moly- but in my experience, the heat created in that joint dries out moly type grease fairly quickly and cakes in the cavity making it hard to pump new grease in and have it pass the seal- so if using moly it requires more frequent drive shaft slip joint service- that is removal, clean it out and reassembly.

So something like this valvoline multi-vehicle red grease is good for both yoke and spiders?

 

[dogdaysindurham]

For the driveshaft / universal joints, I use Magnalube-G (Polyurea, PTFE) NGLI-2 Magnalube-G | Magnalube - https://magnalube.com/product/magnalube-g/ it's not as thick as the GX.
For my front UCA, rear UCA/LCA, and rear bumper locking pins, I use Magnalube-GX (PTFE, Moly, Lithium) NGLI-2 grease Magnalube-GX | Magnalube - https://magnalube.com/product/magnalube-gx/