Mobil 1 10w-30 Full Synthetic Mistery (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter EvoE2
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Nothing definitive in this thread, but a few related links and discussion around break-in procedure after a rebuild. HTH.
1fz break-in procedure?
1fz break-in procedure?
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I followed this break-in procedure from Summit Racing. Others are somewhat similar. http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/instructions/atk engine break in.pdf
As stated, use dino oil for the break-in period. Also using a break-in additive is suggested.
As stated, use dino oil for the break-in period. Also using a break-in additive is suggested.
Check your rear main seal. Even if it is new. Oil can escape there quickly and not leave a drop of evidence on the garage floor and not much evidence on the tranny. I was having a similar issue and I was losing oil like crazy and couldn't figure it out. I would let it idle for hours in the driveway and not a drop. Drive it for a while and a quart would be gone. I was going nuts.
I finally asked a friend who owns a shop in Charlotte who is very knowledgeable about landcruisers and he said he had seen it before. It was the rear main seal upon very detailed inspection. He told me to stop using synthetic oil before replacing the rear main seal and sure enough issue was resolved. I know it sounds crazy but it worked. His theory is that these trucks were never designed to run synthetic and some of them just don't like it. Don't know if I buy that theory, but I'm not losing oil.
I finally asked a friend who owns a shop in Charlotte who is very knowledgeable about landcruisers and he said he had seen it before. It was the rear main seal upon very detailed inspection. He told me to stop using synthetic oil before replacing the rear main seal and sure enough issue was resolved. I know it sounds crazy but it worked. His theory is that these trucks were never designed to run synthetic and some of them just don't like it. Don't know if I buy that theory, but I'm not losing oil.
I’d drain it and send all 10quarts to Blackstone in a giant bucket labeled “analyze this!” .........that will get their attention! 
Is the valve cover from the rear of the motor that is in the pic? If so, I bet the tranny is soaked and a lot of it just absorbed into the ecosystem that kinda finds a way to live on an 80. I found a pine cone from Colorado in my spring after it hitched a ride to Minnesota. There is probably from soaked out dust pockets up there and that is why you didn't see a massive drip.
Glad you sorted out out and it wasn't due to a mystery.
Glad you sorted out out and it wasn't due to a mystery.
Is the valve cover from the rear of the motor that is in the pic? If so, I bet the tranny is soaked and a lot of it just absorbed into the ecosystem that kinda finds a way to live on an 80. I found a pine cone from Colorado in my spring after it hitched a ride to Minnesota. There is probably from soaked out dust pockets up there and that is why you didn't see a massive drip.
Glad you sorted out out and it wasn't due to a mystery.
Give that pine cone a year, and I bet you’ll have a genuine Colorado pine tree growing on top of your tranny! Great selling point! Lol
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Still, the most strange thing is:
Why it didn't loose oil in the city but it did in the highway? I believe that the POS Mobil 1 had also something to do with it
I have about 300 since I changed to Motul Synthetic 5W-40 and the oil level is perfect but it was with the Mobil 1
Till now (2,100 miles) I have used Full Synthetic
After fixing the gasket, I'll change to Lucas Break In oil
Why it didn't loose oil in the city but it did in the highway? I believe that the POS Mobil 1 had also something to do with it
I have about 300 since I changed to Motul Synthetic 5W-40 and the oil level is perfect but it was with the Mobil 1
Till now (2,100 miles) I have used Full Synthetic
After fixing the gasket, I'll change to Lucas Break In oil
Life finds a way!
I always liked those lawn cars. Not sure why those went out of fashion, but they should take another look at that idea along with coming through with the flying car they promised me on the Jetsons 50 years ago. They should have that sorted out by now, just sayin'.
On a totally different topic (sorry op)!
I could swear I watched a documentary about 7-10 years ago about flying cars being “ready for bulk trials”. They said they had the price points down under $100000, the safety concerns addressed, and were ready to start “rolling them off the assembly line”! They stated that the Dept of Transportation had already set up a network of “roadways or routes” in the sky! Basically cars going north fly at like 100 feet, going south 200 feet, east at ?, and west at ?. Did ANYONE ELSE SEE THIS? I know I didn’t dream it....lol..... what happened? Anyone?
I did not see that, but I am all for whatever it takes to get that plan off the ground(sorry, pun intended). I work for the DOT and I am sure my supervisors would love to hear about this.
Synthetic oil seems to have a uncanny ability to leak when the opportunity is presented. Since you already have a few thousand miles there's really no need for break in oil. I'm not rebuild expert but if it were me I'd run some decent 10w40 dino oil for a few thousand miles since you are in a warm climate and then switch back to a 10w40 synthetic.
Because on the highway, you have more sustained higher RPM and there is more oil being retained on top of the head. In the city, you have up and down RPM and he oil has time to drain back down.
Sorta on the same idea..... I am a Studebaker guy and the early Studebaker V8's would fill up the valve covers with oil if driven at sustained high RPM such as 80+ MPH (4000+ RPM) on the interstate and then all at once they'd start smoking heavily. It was sucking the oil through the valve seals. The oil returns inn the heads were not drilled large enough, so they increased that size and the problem went away. Basically, a similar issue.
