Hey guys recently purchased a 1994 toyota landcruiser 1fz fe motor. Just wondering if the oil I want to use M1 0w-40 is decent for the Australian hot summer in a 300,000km engine? Cheers.
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Mobil 1 0w-40, 300,000km 1fz-fe (no debate please)
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I'm new to the site so if I'm posting in the wrong thread just give me a link if possible thank you.
Don't know for sure but I can tell you it is a 501,503,and 505 Volkswagen approved oil for their notoriously sludge prone 1.8T engines. I've got 10k miles on the Mobil-1 0w40 in my modified 1.8 Turbo Passat right now with no sign of trouble. If it's good for these engines it should be good for our mild loafer 4.5 truck motors.
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Haha yeah I guess if it's good for those high revving turbos should be good for the 1fz fe. It has 15-40 magnatec in it atm, but I don't know how long the old owner did intervals so I thought mobil 1 would keep the wear down while cleaning the gunk of there is any.
I've heard good things and had some limited but good experience with a product called Auto-Rx for gently cleaning out oil passages in older engines. It also keeps gaskets from drying out and shrinking, even supposedly swelling them back up over time. I have no reason to believe my 170K mile LC has a problem, but I'll be adding a few ounces of Auto-Rx to the CC with my next oil change. Both as a preventative and to see what comes out on the following change.
NO i would stick to 15w40, if you want to know if there is a build up just pull the rocker cover off. Just look up castrol lube guide it will tell you the best oil to use.
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp
http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/default.asp
15w40 would be cheaper and be a good viscosity to run in a hotter climate. Mobil 1 makes a quality product as does Delo or Rotella. Also the diesel oils usually have pretty good additive packages in order to keep the sludge down in diesel motors if you are concerned about gunk in the motor.
SmokingRocks
Don't focus on the cost of this addiction
the lighter the oil the louder the engine will be and I don't mean combustion noise. You will hear all the bearings and everything. I went to a heavier oil to quite the old girl down.
No need for 0 winter oil unless it will see very cold weather. Stick with a higher viscosity.
I run Mobil 1 0w40 in my truck works great. Thinner when cold but gives better protection when hot. When the oil specs for these engines came out in 93 there was no 0w40 synthetics, but there is absolutely zero reason why you shouldn't use it.
If you read bob the oil guy website the general understanding is for cold start engine protection when the most engine damage occurs the thinner the oil the better. The reason is it will pump quicker and easier into all engine parts. That's why in cold climate they recommend thinner oil but you can get away with thicker oil in warmer climate. but 0- oils were and still are very rare and more expensive so 10 or 15 weight oil is ok to use, but thinner is better!!!
The analogy is gas for a sport car, higher the octane the better but lower octane be tolerated if you don't drive it hard. 0- oils are higher performing and newer technology that didn't exist before so use 0-40 when you can but In warmer climate 10-40 is ok as a substitute.......NOT better.
Diesel engines have fewer parts and therefore tolerates higher viscosity cold oil.
The analogy is gas for a sport car, higher the octane the better but lower octane be tolerated if you don't drive it hard. 0- oils are higher performing and newer technology that didn't exist before so use 0-40 when you can but In warmer climate 10-40 is ok as a substitute.......NOT better.
Diesel engines have fewer parts and therefore tolerates higher viscosity cold oil.
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I have been running M1 0-40 for several years in my supercharged 1FZ. It is not cheap but I feel it is worth it.
It also happens to be the factory fill for my SRT8 Challenger so it reduces the variety of oil I have to stock.....
It also happens to be the factory fill for my SRT8 Challenger so it reduces the variety of oil I have to stock.....
I used it for 3 years and the only issue was the oil pressure always showed low then i went to dino Delvac 15-40 and the pressure skyrocketed. The mobil 1 is great just know the oil pressure reading will be lower than if you use dino oil and manual pressure readings show in normal range.
I always wondered the logic of cold start / low viscosity oil. OP doesn't want a debate, but here is my thought. It makes sense that you would build pressure slightly faster, though it takes only seconds with the heavy stuff. However 15w-40 is like corn syrup at 20 degrees outside, there is no way it is not stuck to the crank, bearings, cylinder walls and everything in between. I mean its not like they are starved for oil, they have a thick coating already on them. Its kind of like using assembly lube when you put a motor together.
I've always used one or the other viscosities of Mobil 1 but when I went to 0W-40 my engine drank it, consumption (with no leaks) shot up to one quart in 300-400 miles. Went back to Mobil 1 5W-40 TDT and oil consumption dropped back to about one quart in 1000 miles. Oil pressure never was a problem with either viscosity, always at or above the third mark, a needle width lower when outside temps get around 30'F or less. FWIW.
inkpot
SILVER Star
A lot of us here use the M1 20-50. Very rarely get down to freezing, but it gets mighty hot on the summer. Works well with no problems for several hundred thousand miles between us. John
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Yeah man in Australia you can only choose from 5w-50,0w-40,5w-30 on the shelves oh and 5w-30 esp.
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- #19
I could go 5w-50 cst@100c is 17.5 compared to 13.5 for the 0w-40
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That sounds pretty convincing for Mobil 1. We do however get 5w-50 also in Australia I think because of the heat here can get up too 43c for 2 weeks straight. HahaI have been running M1 0-40 for several years in my supercharged 1FZ. It is not cheap but I feel it is worth it.
It also happens to be the factory fill for my SRT8 Challenger so it reduces the variety of oil I have to stock.....
