Mixing old and new injectors?

truthdetector

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At the point in my build where I've re-installed the injectors, which were just serviced by WitchHunter.

Next step was to start routing the new engine wiring harness when I realized that 3 of the 6 injectors had the lock tab broken off (by me during disassembly, I just didn't notice until now). Oddly, all of the grey connector injectors, 1, 3, and 5.

The engine is on the stand, so now is the time to remedy this rather than hoping for the best and guaranteeing misfires down the road because the connectors aren't locked on.

Here are the options as I see them:

  • Zip-tie the connectors onto the injectors, which feels super janky, but if anyone has had luck with this, I'd like to hear about it.
  • Dip into the kid's college fund to get 6 new OEM injectors.
  • Replace the three injectors that are missing the lock tab with OEM and keep the three originals.
Does anyone see an issue with mixing old and new as long as they are all OEM?
 

truthdetector

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Another option:

Thanks gummycarbs - are you running these?

You can mix them. I did.

Thanks for the confirmation. Did you mix with freshly cleaned originals, or just replace bad injectors and mixed new with old in their original condition. Should I be concerned about them being "matched"?
 
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I cleaned mine. You can take them apart and get everything out, if you have the right chemicals. You're really only removing varnish from the fuel. Another good reason to use non-corn fuel.

FWIW, I had to remove the upper intake and fuel rail to replace an upper O-ring. It leaked all over the place. Badly. You need to dip the upper end of the injector in fresh fuel, before you assembly the injectors and rail. The FSM says to rotate the injector on installation. The purpose is to ensure you don't twist an O-Ring and create a leak path. The injector will insert into the fuel rail farther than is necessary for full engagement when assembled. I'd recommend inserting it halfway, while turning it, and call it good.

The damage to my upper O-ring was caused by the burr in the bottom of the fuel rail socket, where it meets the horizontal passage. It is really sharp and will cut the rubber, so don't insert it until it bottoms in the rail socket.

The manufacturer ensures the injector flow meets the accaptable range, or Toyota wouldn't sell them to you. Don't sweat it.
 

TomH

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You could try adding a bit of your favorite epoxy over the broken clip. Then after it cures file it to the correct shape. Pretty sure I did this to one or two of my injectors.
 

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