Misc Swap Questions - Engine Placement

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Mar 7, 2019
Ft. Worth, TX
Preparing for this surgery for my 62 and have been reading posts like mad but have a few questions specific to grafting in new 6.2L crate heartbeat:
1. Motor mounts- I’ve seen AA offering but is there anything better I should look into? Unfortunately I don’t have the skilz to fab em.
2. AA also has a scab plate kit for LandCruisers. Is this required?
3. Locating the engine.... What specific considerations should I account for forward, aft, right, left, up and down? I haven’t decided yet on mechanical vs electric fans, guess if I go mechanical it will need to have proper fit to rad shroud?
4. Engine angle... seen posts that say you should have some degree angle but others say you should have 0 degree for best drive shaft alignment?
5. Cross member- tranny will be 6L80e. Should I use my existing 62 cross member or is there better options?

TIA! I’ve read through many build pages but if you’re aware of a specific one I may have missed that covers this please help point me in right direction.
Not having done this, I’d guess that with engine tranny and transfer mated, one could position the whole shebang using the tranny mounts, set desired pitch, then locate front mounts... but like I said, I haven’t done this
The AA motor mounts work well enough. Probably the best option for the fab averse. The trans cross member is going to require some fab skills no matter what you do. The stock one can be altered to work, but some people start from scratch. Like Lambcrusher said, get the motor, trans and transfer all assembled together and it will start to make more sense when you get it all in there. Line up the drive shafts, check for clearance at the hood and axle. Not sure what the scab plates are intended for, but expect to modify the engine mounts and transfer shifter from AA to get it all to work.
Scab plates cover the voids inside the frame rails giving you a solid surface to weld the new mounts onto.
Good rule of thumb when doing any motor swap with new mounts is to keep the drive lines as true as you can for to aft. I run a string between the pinion flanges and use a plumb bob to align transfer case to be as straight as possible. The other measurement will be what angle your T/C rear output flange sits at. You want to make sure the pinion yoke and rear output flange are within a few degrees of each other when the vehicle is sitting on it's wheels (loaded on a flat surface). This insures minimal U-Joint binding and vibration.

AA and Downey have pretty good info on the whys and hows of swaps. Neither is 100% perfect step by step. A good source to read on theory is Redirect Notice

One thing to keep in mind is serviceability away from the garage or shop. If something needs attention in the field how will you repair it with a bag full of hand tools?
Good luck on your swap man.

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