Millermatic 140 with auto set. (1 Viewer)

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Millermatic 140 With Auto Set MIG Welder w/cart


Product Description

All-in-one wire welding package welds 24 gauge - 3/16 in (0.8 - 4.8 mm) mild steel. The simplest Millermatic to set-up and start welding.
New! Auto-Set™ is a breakthrough control that automatically sets your welder to the proper parameters. Auto-Set offers all-in-one MIG, minus the guesswork! Simply set the wire diameter, set the material thickness, and start welding!
Manual Mode has the flexibility to manually set weld parameters for broader applications.
NEW! Smooth-Start™ patent-pending technology provides a smooth, spatter-free start. —The best starting machine in the small MIG category. No more pop-gun starts or spatter to clean up.
Durable cast aluminum feedhead incorporates dual groove quick-change drive roll and spring-loaded tension arm with calibrated tension knob, all designed to make setup easier and faster.
Thermal Overload Protection shuts down the unit and activates over- temperature light if airflow is blocked or duty cycle is exceeded. Automatically resets when fault is corrected and unit cools.
"Tip Saver" short circuit protection shuts down output when tip is shorted to the work. Extends contact tip life and protects internal components from damage. Trigger reset permits quick reset at torch rather than unit.
Standard Built-in solid-state contactor circuit makes wire electrically "cold" until trigger is pulled. Makes unit safer, and is easier to position torch to work before starting to weld.
Easy access to output studs provides convenient polarity changeover when switching from solid or flux cored wires.
Self-resetting motor protection circuit eliminates the need to find and replace fuses.
Uses 4 or 8 in (102 or 203 mm) spools and can be set up to weld with wire sizes .024 - .030 in (0.6 - 0.8 mm) mild/stainless steel and .030 - .035 (0.8 - 0.9 mm) flux cored.
Note: Auto-Set is calibrated for .024 and .030 mild steel wire and C25 shielding gas (75% Argon, 25% CO2). Use manual mode for broader applications with mild steel, or to weld stainless steel or flux core.
Input Power
  • Requires 1-Phase power
  • 115 V, 20 Amps 60Hz
Rated Output
  • 90A at 18 VDC, 20% duty cycle
Welding Amperage Range
  • 30 - 140 Amps
Wire Speed
  • 15 - 390 IPM (1.0 - 12.7 m/min)
Net Weight
  • 60lb (27.3kg)

Includes
  • 10 ft (3m) M-10 Miller MIG gun
  • 10 ft (3 m) work cable with clamp
  • Factory-installed gas solenoid valve
  • Smith® Argon and AR/CO2 mix regulator/flow gauge and gas hose
  • 6 ft (1.8 m) power cord and plug
  • Two contact tips for .024 in (0.6 mm) wire and two contact tips for .030 in (0.8 mm) wire
  • Dual groove quick-change drive roll for .024 in (0.6 mm) or .030/.035 in (0.8/0.9 mm) wire
  • Spool of Hobart® .024 in (0.6 mm) solid wire
  • Information/settings chart
  • Set-up and operation video
  • Material thickness gauge

Thinking on buying this model, anyone else have one?


 
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I have the big brother, the 175. About the same just 220v, a little more output.

This is a good home/ first machine. Super easy to use, you'll just have go slow/ double pass the thick stuff.

A friend just built a jeep with one, suspension, rollcage, bodywork, bumpers, everything.
 
I'm kind of a welding novice, but a 140 sized machine is a little light for Cruiser work, where most things are made of 1/4 plate. I would spend a bit more and get a 220 machine-the Miller 175 (or it's replacement) is a great place to start.
 
I'm kind of a welding novice, but a 140 sized machine is a little light for Cruiser work, where most things are made of 1/4 plate. I would spend a bit more and get a 220 machine-the Miller 175 (or it's replacement) is a great place to start.

I agree.. 110v machine is really not enough for 1/4" steel. I would look at a Hobart 187. It has gotten great reviews.
 
IMO, you can do the 1/4 in stuff with the 110 units, but it will take a LOT more effort and youll be wishing you had the bigger unit!
Look into the hobart 187, as stated above.
I think youll be much happier in the long run with the additional power for not much more dough!

Chicago
 
1/4 is fine with the little unit. (flux core set at it highest and a relativly slow wire speed)

220 is so much nicer tho..
 
I had the Hobart 140 and used it to weld my sliders from Marlin, pretty thick stuff I believe 3/16. It did OK, not great but OK. Slow going cranked up all the way with Argon mix.

I then upgraded to the Hobart 187 and what a difference, normal speed and about 1/3 the way in heat. Used Co2 this time and welded on the 1/4" soppurt plates with no problem. I welded up some other brackets and it was like butter.

If you do not need the ower then fine but for suspension work and heavier apps I wold upgrade to either of the 220 v ones. Makes your work easier and you know you have a good weld and I am a rookie.
 
full Argon mix will nto get the penetration that a dual mix or pure Co2 will.

Run flux core if you are welding 110V and thick stuff..
 
I have access to this exact welder. I bought the cart and bottle and get to use it when I need it. I've used it for lots of fabrication projects for the Cruiser. It does 1/4" fine. It is the only 110 machine I've ever used that I thought was worth a damn. I've used the Lincoln's and Hobarts and a Chicago Electric. I built my whole rear bumper, carrier, etc... with this. If you aren't a very good welder this machine will make you look good. I'm not a great welder and so when I do 1/4" I weld for awhile and then stop. I think my stopping a lot is what makes it work for me. I've never overheated it. I've used it for 8 hours straight, but again I'm slow and I weld 3-4" and stop and change position etc... I found that I run the heat full out and run at a middle to 3/4 speed for bumper type projects. The gun is the best 110 gun in my opinion.
 
The gun is the best 110 gun in my opinion.
The 140 w/ Auto-Set, 140, 180, DVI and Passport all use the same M-10 gun. I have the M-10 that came with my Passport and a Bernard Q-Gun that is a direct replacement. The Q-gun is, in my opinion, a superior design when compared to the M-10. That may be why Miller purchased Bernard.
 
I had the Hobart 140 and used it to weld my sliders from Marlin, pretty thick stuff I believe 3/16. It did OK, not great but OK. Slow going cranked up all the way with Argon mix.

I then upgraded to the Hobart 187 and what a difference, normal speed and about 1/3 the way in heat. Used Co2 this time and welded on the 1/4" soppurt plates with no problem. I welded up some other brackets and it was like butter.

If you do not need the ower then fine but for suspension work and heavier apps I wold upgrade to either of the 220 v ones. Makes your work easier and you know you have a good weld and I am a rookie.

HH187 is a far superior welder than the HH140 in every aspect except price. I welds better than the HH140 because is better made (proper inductance=smooth arc), has 7 taps vs. 4, and 230v model.

There is a reason why the HH180 was quickly replaced by the HH187. Miller did the exact same thing. MM250, 250X was quickly replaced by the MM251.

Straight CO2 will give you more penetration, but little (not much) more splatter than C-25 (75% argon, 25% CO2).
 

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