Miele washing machine W1930 story

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AJP

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Oct 20, 2005
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Some info FWIW - I couldn't find much info online when I started to trouble shoot the issue I had with my newly purchased, but used, Miele Novatronic W1930 washing machine..

Having had some bad experience with over priced - poorly performing - European appliances .. I convinced myself that an older used Miele Washer was an ok risk. This washer unit was the bottom half of a stacking washer/dryer combo unit. This was actually serendipitous as it made getting into the machine through the top quite simple - I don't know what a stand alone machine is like to open up.

Paid $200 after answering an add on Kijiji . The owner did not have it plugged in to the requisite 3 pronged plug so I couldn't use the power switch see what condition it was in before my purchase - front door wouldn't/won't open without power but discovered there was a mechanical over ride when I got it home and found a manual online. .

Fortunately only women had looked at the unit prior to my purchase so they didn't have the strength to rip the door off its hinges trying to open it. :rolleyes:

So any way -- paid the $200 and then called a moving company as it was too heavy to lift by myself. Got a pretty good deal cause they picked up/delivered 45 miles away for $75 (plus the $40 tip for the two guys that worked hard to carry this heavy SOB up and down some nasty stairs without cursing me!). Then I had to call an electrician ... who also did a pretty fine job of putting in a set of breakers and running a line about 25 feet to a 3 prong box for the washing machine plug. I think this was $100 all in .. which I thought was a pretty decent price. And a very neat job!!

So now we are pushing about $410 PLUS my time and trips back and for to pay etc etc and find a mover and an electrician etc for a USED washer (apparently my wife is right - I am an idiot!).

Sooooo the machine works GREAT for about 4 months.... then a little "tap" light starts coming on before it finishes the wash cycle. There is still water in the drum when the door is open (aaargh!!).... up until now the 1600rpm spin cycle damn near dries the load without resorting to a dryer - in fact most times I throw the damp clothes on a line in the basement and they dry overnight.

So anyway -- I get this flashing light next to the image of a "faucet/tap"

Now the search "on line" begins...what does the light mean?? Apparently the light means that the machine is not administering water (or sufficient water) during one of the cycles (either the first fill cycle or a subsequent rinse cycle).

When I open the machine (very simple and intuitive) there are valves connected to the back of the machine where the hot and cold water feeds enter. The hot water "valve" (or solenoid as you wish) has the external hot water hose, a power lead and an internal hose connected to it. when I run a cycle I can see that the hot water valve lets water flow through it. A-OK

The cold water "valve" (or solenoid) has the external cold water hose, a power lead(s) and three internal hoses connected. (BTW - all internal hoses terminate in the box that contains the soap dispenser so all water coming into the machine is routed through the detergent/bleach/softener dispenser before entering the tub)... it doesnt seem so "A-OK" .. in fact when I set the machine for cold water only fill .. the water barely trickles..

Online I discover a new cold water valve (solenoid??) isnt cheap ..made in the Fatherland by gnomes apparently. But discover that the Canadian Miele importer is actally not too bad in terms of price - cheaper than the online sources I have checked!! Also the Miele service rep I speak with is VERY pleasant!! Yes he has the valve .. yes it is in stock and yes it can be shipped PDQ.. I vacillate for a week wondering if I want to spend the $200plus (what if something else breaks??). The Miele rep keeps my enquiry on file. Says to quote the telephone number if I call back.... when I do another rep picks up the order and I get it delivered within 3 days. In Canada where I am .. this is a minor MIRACLE!

Installation R&R of the valve is simple (again - intuitive) .. the "Oetiker" hose clamps that are OEM are confusing to me... I think I will have to cut them off replace them with worm gear clamps...and I read on line about the proper technique to clip them off. But as it happens a simple (light) pinch with a set of pincer pliers undoes the clamp ... and "saints be praised" the clamps are completely reusable by simply positioning them on the hose and squeezing the "ears" together gently - which causes the clamp to reconnect!! Very fine!

Working like new again!!!

Long winded - sorry.
 
Thanks for the comments!! Yes .. pictures...agreed ... I will see what I can do and add them when I can - probably much later unfortunately. Also debris in the inlet screen is definitely a potential cause of the reported problem... in the Miele there are small "screen/filters" that are inserted in the inlet "bibs" ... they should be checked first for blockage by disconnecting the hoses and pulling the inserted plastic filters out of the bibs with a pair of needle nose pliers.
 
Well I wish I found this earlier. I have same trouble only we checked the filter and it was clean, We checked the pressure, etc. I knew it was getting plenty of water and never imagining thte water inlet would need to be replaced I messed with it and now I ran the pump dry and need a pump as well. I love the washer, I'm getting the parts but will find the best price I can. :):mad:
 
LOL FYI , I am a girl and I have had it apart a few times, even changed the drum (can't recall goofy name) gasket rubber. Still finding it hard to believe a cold water inlet would need replacing. The hot I can picture because of the heating element.
Does anyone know what causes this, if I can take it out, clean it out and that should work, or does the inlet get old and only open partially?
 
Hello Lovinight.. looking at the old unit I removed ... they (the fill valves) don't appear to be user serviceable. At least I couldn't figure out how in my 15 minutes of tinkering - although I did keep the old part in the box. It might be worth a search on line though to see if anyone else has repaired them .. seems the best source of info are UK sites although don't buy their parts before confirming voltage is correct fwiw.

The failure is not uncommon and I presume it is the solenoid losing its ability to pull open the valve against a "return spring" of some sort. It is possible that there is some constriction/debris preventing this but it was not obvious if this is the case when I removed my faulty unit.

The removal and replacement was easier than expected for me and the usual warnings apply ... eg make sure that you reconnect the inlet hoses properly or you will get leaks etc .. watch for leaks before you "button it up" If you have the original Oetiker clamps .. use a large pair of "end nipper/pincer pliers" to gently squeeze the connection joint together to remove ( and replace later).

Not an expert as I am learning as I go .. but I am surprised that the pump failed running dry .. was it a long time running dry?


good luck
 
On most residential models, not repairable. They are inmost commercial washers. Valveis a electromagnet that opens when given current. The electromagnet generally is the failure but requires replacing entire assembly. If less than10 years oldandworking, I suggest getting sears warranty you'll come out ahead. A bearing job is pretty expensive, and time consuming, on front loaders not to mention the computer boards and motor.
 
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