Mid-Way Through LX470 Starter Replacement - Need Advice, Should I...

[Agent T]

So I'm halfway through replacing the starter in my 2000 LX and want to know "What would you do?"

Question 1) the connector clip to the starter solenoid snapped when I pressed to release it. My options are:

a. Secure the connection with some type of glue, silicone or zip-tie.
b. Purchase a new connector and pig-tail...or new connector and R&R the old pin.

FYI: Under the starter I found a piece of a broken connectors. I checked the two connectors in the engine block and found one was broken...so it's been "unsecured" for sometime. I will need to repair or replace this connector also. I'm afraid to even touch the other one. BTW, what are these two sensors???

Question 2) Cylinder head Intake ports are dirty. Is it worth the effort to clean? If yes, what's the best way to clean the ports?

Question 3) Intake manifold ports are also dirty. Again, is it worth the effort clean them? If yes, how and should I split the upper manifold and remove the fuel injectors...so I can really get a good cleaning?

Question 4) Should I clean fuel injectors? If "yes", how? FYI: all the the injector tips were shinny clean...except one was slightly discolored.

I was surprised by the amount of gooey black buildup in the intake ports. Looking at the photos...is than normal for 128K miles?

Thank you!

 

[Malleus]

1) there is no "pigtail" available for the starter. The power lead is part of the engine harness. The connector housings will most likely stay together without the locking tab. If you're really worried about it, get a new housing and carefully pull the terminals out of the old one. It's a 10 minute job. The Wiring Harness Repair Manual has specifications for a removal tool, and @NLXTACY has them on his website, but I use a straight pick.

2) "Normal" depends on the condition of your valves and the fuel you use. They're leaking and that's why you have crap in your intake side. Unless you're prepared to pull the head, I wouldn't try to clean the intake ports - the carbon has a bad habit of coming off in pieces, not a sludge like you'd want, and if it gets into the head between the valve and seat, well, you get the idea.

3) see 2 above. The only thing I've found to remove the oil/carbon buildup is Brakleen. I'm in the middle of a head R & R on my son's 80 and I've have tried literally every chemical I could find. Some of it is so baked in, my bead blast media wouldn't remove it (in the EGR passage). Whether you remove it or not is entirely up to you.

4) there are a thousand opinions on injector cleaning. You can pick the one you like. I clean them as much as any other part and reistall them.

 

[Agent T]

1) there is no "pigtail" available for the starter. The power lead is part of the engine harness. The connector housings will most likely stay together without the locking tab. If you're really worried about it, get a new housing and carefully pull the terminals out of the old one. It's a 10 minute job. The Wiring Harness Repair Manual has specifications for a removal tool, and @NLXTACY has them on his website, but I use a straight pick.

2) "Normal" depends on the condition of your valves and the fuel you use. They're leaking and that's why you have crap in your intake side. Unless you're prepared to pull the head, I wouldn't try to clean the intake ports - the carbon has a bad habit of coming off in pieces, not a sludge like you'd want, and if it gets into the head between the valve and seat, well, you get the idea.

3) see 2 above. The only thing I've found to remove the oil/carbon buildup is Brakleen. I'm in the middle of a head R & R on my son's 80 and I've have tried literally every chemical I could find. Some of it is so baked in, my bead blast media wouldn't remove it (in the EGR passage). Whether you remove it or not is entirely up to you.

4) there are a thousand opinions on injector cleaning. You can pick the one you like. I clean them as much as any other part and reistall them.

Thanks Malleus. I found a great website that will make pigtails for almost every connector. Check out Ballenger Motorsport bmotorsports.com. So, I ordered the starter and knock sensor connector and they will be here on Friday.

Great tip for the pin connector removal tool. Wits' End's connector pin tool is just what I was looking for.

As the intake manifold is on the work bench, I was able to clean it easily with brake cleaner and without the worry of debris getting to the valves/guides. I was surprised by the amount and cleanliness of the oil in the upper plenum. Where is that coming from, pcv valve? I can't believe the valves/guides are leaking that much oil. Any ideas?

Don't think I want to take the injectors out and clean them. I may consider a cleaning treatment once she is back up and running...although I heard mixed review on the injector cleaning...and that it can be harsh on the engine.

Thanks again

 

[BullElk]

You may want to consider changing your knock sensors while you're in there. Basically the same labor if/when they go out.

 

[Malleus]

Thanks Malleus. I found a great website that will make pigtails for almost every connector. Check out Ballenger Motorsport bmotorsports.com. So, I ordered the starter and knock sensor connector and they will be here on Friday.

Great tip for the pin connector removal tool. Wits' End's connector pin tool is just what I was looking for.

As the intake manifold is on the work bench, I was able to clean it easily with brake cleaner and without the worry of debris getting to the valves/guides. I was surprised by the amount and cleanliness of the oil in the upper plenum. Where is that coming from, pcv valve? I can't believe the valves/guides are leaking that much oil. Any ideas?

Don't think I want to take the injectors out and clean them. I may consider a cleaning treatment once she is back up and running...although I heard mixed review on the injector cleaning...and that it can be harsh on the engine.

Thanks again

I order most of my electrical parts from Ballenger. They're great. Didn't know they made pigtails, so that's good to know.

I'd guess leaking valve stem seals, more than the PCV valve. The valve is supposed to allow the air from the valve train into the plenum, so it can only supply what's already there. If it's oily, that's what's going into the plenum. The valve stem seals can be replaced without removing the heads.

I'm always leery of magic mystery oil. IMHO, even if it worked, you'd have to use gallons to do any good, since it's diluted by adding into the fuel tank or oil pan. If a component needed to be cleaned, the only sure way to clean it, and not risk damaging anything else would be to isolate it from the system it's a part of and then clean it. This is exactly what diesel engine shops do with their injectors. My earlier point was, although you could do this, the results I've gathered from others who've done it are mixed. It helped some, and made no difference for others. Mileage didn't seem to matter as much as the type of fuel used. It's not cheap, but I only use non-ethanol gasoline in my engines.

For cleaning treatments that connect a cleaning machine to the fuel rail directly, you're spraying cleaner directly onto your valves, as well as the injectors. While this may not affect new, shiny valves, you've got to wonder what it does to valves that may have just enough carbon on them to prevent them form seating if it's removed and the valve/seat isn't renewed. Now you've got a situation that's potentially worse than it was before cleaning. Just my 2¢.

 

[OwnerCS]

I've used Marvel Mystery Oil straight on as a solvent to clean up carbon from intake valve ports on a 5VZ. It is a slow tedious process where I had to turn the camshaft to close the valves with the piston below TCD in case any MMO runs down into the cylinder and it will. Then I turned the crankshaft with plugs out to work in any excess oil into the cylinder that eventuall drains into the oil pan for removal before starting. I may do this for the 2JZ though I know it will be slow and tedious. Doing it with the engine in the truck will make it take longer.

Newly poured MMO will be red until is starts to disolve carbon then it turns black.

MMO will melt carbon if allowed to sit long enough. Then I extract it and turn the cylinders with plugs out so that any excell works its way past the cylinder walls and runs into the oil pan.

It looked like a new engine when finished. Though it was no small amount of work.

 

[Agent T]

You may want to consider changing your knock sensors while you're in there. Basically the same labor if/when they go out.

I checked the price on knock sensors...are they really $200 a piece? If so, I think I'm good...way good. I'm sure I would get an error if they were failing. Also, removing the intake manifold is quick, just the cost of the gaskets...it's the starter that makes me curse while I'm standing on my head.

 

[abuck99]

If you pull the injectors, might as well send them out for proper service- otherwise leave them be unless they’re leaking. You can’t effectively bench clean them and removing them will require new o rings at minimum.

Fuel system cleaner: I’ve had good results from BG44k for fuel system, not cheap. I’ve used BG EPR for cleaning oil circuit.

On the connector- in a pinch you can use appropriate sized heat shrink over the two connectors to ensure they stay together. But in that location and the work necessary to get in there, I’d be more comfortable replacing the connector.

 

[BullElk]

I checked the price on knock sensors...are they really $200 a piece? If so, I think I'm good...way good. I'm sure I would get an error if they were failing. Also, removing the intake manifold is quick, just the cost of the gaskets...it's the starter that makes me curse while I'm standing on my head.

You can certainly get them cheaper than that. I think I paid like $35 and they have been fine for several months now.