Micro-Tube Parallel Flow Condenser (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Dissent
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maxamillion2345
Franken-80
You shouldn't need a different condensor though, the ac worked great at some point. I suppose you could email denso with the part number of a replacement condensor and ask what the new oem replacements are but imo trying to swap a newer condensor, off of whatever, you know to be parallel flow is asking for a lot of headache. Do you know if the oem is serpentine?
Also I'd have replaced the drier while the system was open. They're cheap too.
Also I'd have replaced the drier while the system was open. They're cheap too.
More efficient is not going to be bad.
It's more a question of are you prepared to pony up the cash to upgrade, and put in the work required to customise stuff, or pay someone do it?
Is the gain with the effort and expense?
Those questions explain why no-one else is saying they've done what your talking about.
In my experience.
Toyota got the A/C pretty good in these, and mine get used in similar conditions to what you would see in AZ.
The vast majority of cruisers aren't used in such extremes of heat.
I think the number of people motivated to attempt customising a system that works well is going to be very small
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Suction line at the compressor and discharge after condensor?
Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
- Thread starter
- #25
I'm all for paying for parts and doing the custom work to make it cold as the other cars we have. I've no problem tweaking or paying to tweak things to work like I imagine they did when the original owner ponied up $68,000 for this truck. I understand it's not new and I'm willing to replace everything to new but I need to know it's going to work like a $68K truck should. I went through the suspension and all the feedback I got from many folks is "it's a 20 year old truck, what do you expect?" Many OEM bushing later it rides like a new truck.
Many of these trucks are scattered around the middle East which is even hotter than Phoenix. Many of those have Dual AC which takes even more efficiency to perform.
I've seen lots of condenser replacements on the board and yet none have been the newer parallel style. Not to get too off topic but folks on this board have customized every square inch of this truck EXCEPT the AC short of adjusting the drier (which shouldn't be oriented horizontally). I think many are ignorant of how the AC system works honestly.
I found one gentleman in Phoenix who had the exact same situation and replaced everything BUT the condenser. I don't know if he ever resolved it though. I have a PM out to him.
I have modded the fan clutch already and it pulls tons of air.
OEM is serpentine.
I asked Toyota to replace the drier today and they said it didn't require it based on their 40 degree vent temps in the 75 degree shop ambient air.
I'm ready to replace everything if it guarantees success.
I'd start here. I think the clutch is coming in late and you have tried to compensate for that with upping the CST weight of the fluid well beyond what should work.
Our engines don't require much cooling when idling or nowhere near as much as when on the highway. So a clutch that engages late won't really effect the engine temps when idling. However the lack of air flow at idling will really impact the AC performance.
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Suction line at the firewall and liquid line also at the firewall will be fine. This will tell you the systems subcool (condensers ability to dissipate heat from refrigerant) and superheat will tell you if the expansion valve is working correctly.
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I would do a range of engine speeds to see if the expansion valve reacts properly. I hunch is its not. The system works fine in a shop environment with no load but out in the real world with high load it struggles points to a stuck expansion valve. You will be doing yourself a huge service replacing this component and while its out, clean the evaporator. The expansion valve in our trucks is a common failure item...or so I've read.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
I've often wondered if the Middle East 80's had a larger AC compressor and/or a larger condenser.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
When I rebuilt my engine, I replaced everything except the hard lines. Condenser, evaporator, dryer, compressor and expansion valve. Up to 100 degrees it works great provided I don't park in the sun. After that the front seats are tolerable as long as I park in the shade. If I park in the sun for any length of time it is hopeless. I won't say it is better to drive with the windows open but it just doesn't cut the mustard. This is with tinted windows and window tint 4" down on the windshield. I am also thinking about tinting and insulating the sun roof.
Sorry, I don't know that this system ever functioned well here in the southwest and high temps. Looking forward to what you find!
Sorry, I don't know that this system ever functioned well here in the southwest and high temps. Looking forward to what you find!
Is the recirc/fresh air vent door closing fully? Door gasket intact? Thinking you may be getting warm air passing the door. Worth checking at least.
Dissent
Questioning my life choices...
- Thread starter
- #35
I'll check the temps. I figure when it's opened up, I'm replacing the evaporator, expansion valve and drier for sure and then figured the compressor and condenser might as well be since they are 20 years old. Which brings me to the parallel flow unit as an option. If I'm opening the system, it's all or nothing given I have to pay for the vacuum and recharge.
bloc
SILVER Star
If you pull the glove box and move the ECU and stereo amp out of the way you can get a pretty good look at the fresh air mix door. the cold/hot door is a lot harder to investigate.. maybe with one of those cameras you can put into a spark plug hole
I guess I'm the only one that read this and said:"OK, it's an air flow problem."
How old is the condensor
One thing I haven't read yet is PAG oil. I replaced my condenser and drier last year and added the appropriate amount amount of PAG oil directly to the condenser and pulled a vacuum. Everything worked as it should but I did notice that in high 90's plus humidity it took about 10 mins of highway speeds for the AC to get down to the mid 50's. At idle it would be able to drop to the low 60's. This year I noticed my compressor grinding upon initial start up so I bought a tool from Amazon that would allow me to add oil to a charged system. I added 60mls of PAG and now my system is blowing ICE. After sitting in the sun high 80's or low 90's and 70% humidity my AC vent temps will drop to 56-57*F at idle within 1min of startup. On the highway it drops to mid 40's. Makes sense - the oil lubes the compressor so it could spin efficiently with less drag. Worked for me anyways.
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Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I don't necessarily believe it is airflow. It helps mine as well however but even sitting with the hand throttle at 2k in mid-morning while parked the other day, it was just keeping the cab in the 80s. After a half hour driving, half at freeway speeds, it is just beginning to cool off the front portion of the cab to what I would consider nice, if I were parked in the shade. The back seats, (and forget about the third row!) are miserable otherwise.
