Metal-Tech 2019 GROUP BUY for Bumpers and Sliders! (1 Viewer)

[mudbutt]

After receiving my sliders during the first run, I FINALLY had the time to clean, prep, paint, then install my OPOR sliders this past thursday. I see a lot of people are voicing their concerns about the welds. My welds were acceptable, though nothing to brag about either. For the price paid, I am not complaining, and would recommend them to anyone that asks.

That said, I'm not sure if anyone else ran into the same issue as me, but I had the damndest time trying to put the long nuts onto the U-bolts that were provided in the MT hardware kit. After cursing out loud for about an hour, I looked more closely at the nuts versus the U-bolts.

Surely, I must be doing this wrong, right? Well, after closer inspection with my naked eye, I decided to take my sweaty ass to the local Home Depot to see what the sizes were. As suspected, the U-Bolts were a 7/16" Coarse thread whereas the nuts they sent me were 7/16" FINE thread.

I can't believe this oversight caused me so much pain, but it was an easy fix at the end of the day and the sliders went on without any further issue. I'm just making this post to let MetalTech know to double check hardware kits, and to let anyone else that may run into this same issue to check the hardware!

 

[tms070]

Does anyone have recommendations as to how to secure the drivers side brake line? I’ve routed it onboard of the slider mount u bolt. But now it’s just hanging there rubbing against the built ....

Any advise?

Someone posted sleeving the brake lines with 3/8 inch fuel hose, so I tried that and it seems to work pretty well. It keeps the lines from rubbing against the U bolt. I put a small zip tie around the fuel hose to keep it a little tighter. My sliders have been on for a number of weeks and they have not moved.
good luck.

 

[tms070]

After receiving my sliders during the first run, I FINALLY had the time to clean, prep, paint, then install my OPOR sliders this past thursday. I see a lot of people are voicing their concerns about the welds. My welds were acceptable, though nothing to brag about either. For the price paid, I am not complaining, and would recommend them to anyone that asks.

View attachment 2030084

That said, I'm not sure if anyone else ran into the same issue as me, but I had the damndest time trying to put the long nuts onto the U-bolts that were provided in the MT hardware kit. After cursing out loud for about an hour, I looked more closely at the nuts versus the U-bolts.
View attachment 2030078

Surely, I must be doing this wrong, right? Well, after closer inspection with my naked eye, I decided to take my sweaty ass to the local Home Depot to see what the sizes were. As suspected, the U-Bolts were a 7/16" Coarse thread whereas the nuts they sent me were 7/16" FINE thread.
View attachment 2030081
View attachment 2030083
I can't believe this oversight caused me so much pain, but it was an easy fix at the end of the day and the sliders went on without any further issue. I'm just making this post to let MetalTech know to double check hardware kits, and to let anyone else that may run into this same issue to check the hardware!

View attachment 2030085

Exact same thing happened on my end. I emailed MT and they sent out another set pretty quickly. Much easier job when the hardware is correct.

 

[jLB]

It took right at a month after receiving them, but my sliders are now powder coated (a textured black) and installed on my vehicle.

I'm not sure if it's an optical illusion from the LX "cladding", but comparing the old non-step Slee sliders on my son's 100 series Land Cruiser, to the new Metaltech/OPOR sliders on my 100 series LX, it seems the rear "kick out" on the Metaltech, is less of a "kick out" than the front is "tucked in". I really doesn't make that much difference to me at this point, just not quite what I expected from other's descriptions on 'mud.

 

[DRANGED]

It took right at a month after receiving them, but my sliders are now powder coated (a textured black) and installed on my vehicle.

I'm not sure if it's an optical illusion from the LX "cladding", but comparing the old non-step Slee sliders on my son's 100 series Land Cruiser, to the new Metaltech/OPOR sliders on my 100 series LX, it seems the rear "kick out" on the Metaltech, is less of a "kick out" than the front is "tucked in". I really doesn't make that much difference to me at this point, just not quite what I expected from other's descriptions on 'mud.

Pic?
Deffinitely worth showing the concern.

 

[jLB]

Pic?
Deffinitely worth showing the concern.

I wouldn't really call it a concern, more of an unexpected observation:

(Measured off of the pinch weld, tape measure at an angle, more for reference than an actual measurement)

 

[DRANGED]

10 weeks.after delivery...
I'll get mine on.

I started the PORcess yesterday and finished the 2nd coat of POR-15 this morning
They've cured all day and tonight is texture and topcoat(s)... And maybe by night's end they'll be on.

 

[DRANGED]

Here are a couple incidental observations on the quick-built, GX470, group-buy sliders.

 

[DRANGED]

Does anyone have recommendations as to how to secure the drivers side brake line? I’ve routed it onboard of the slider mount u bolt. But now it’s just hanging there rubbing against the built ....

Any advise?

I was able to reclamp it with the factory brackets...
But wrestling with unbolting and 'moving' the kdss pump and tubing was a @&++$#*, then pushing it back up with the KDSS lines pressing on the rear leg is less than ideal.
I reused the rubber sleeves from the now abandoned KDSS bracket and have this as the buffer/padding against the idea leg.