messed with mirror wiring, truck won’t start! (1 Viewer)

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I just tried to tap into my mirror for a radar detector and now the truck won’t start…it tries but the dash goes dead…what did I do 🤬
 
Battery is like 8v, pull off positive and it starts to climb. Never had a battery issue before and worry sometime is shorted so I don’t want to jump it. It’s on a charger now…
 
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Well it started back up, guess the battery is about done because the doors were only open for a half hour. I got all worried because there was another thread where a guy did the same thing and fried a computer, took Toyota weeks to figure it out.
 
Picked up a 31S from the local parts store, pulled the battery tray and put down a rubber pad. Bent the bracket straight and she fit like a glove. Couple buss bars and I think we’re in business!

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What did you do to the tray? I see the terminal mod's, but I'm asking about the support on the bottom of that heavy b*stard of a battery. The slee stuff for this mod is around $330 once you get the terminals, pos cover, etc.
 
I took the tray right out and put a piece of rubber under it instead, the Slee stiff is nice but I don’t think it’s needed.
 
The stock tray can work by nibbling off the locating nubs and then offsetting towards the engine. The trays purpose is longer term to protect the sheet metal from potential corrosion from battery acids.
 
either of you have any pics to be further your point for a visual guy? I want a bigger battery (because MOOOAAARRR!), but don't want to end up butchering my rig needlessly. TIA.
 
either of you have any pics to be further your point for a visual guy? I want a bigger battery (because MOOOAAARRR!), but don't want to end up butchering my rig needlessly. TIA.

This thread should help

 
I might as well show the radar detector wiring that started this thread. I had pulled the wiring back out to troubleshoot the dead battery but now it’s back in.

Picked up a mirror tap kit from Amazon but tapped into the rain sensor instead. I had previously disconnected the rain sensor because it was erratic, once unplugged it gives you a timed delay instead. Green is positive and tan is negative, turns on/off with the car.

Be sure to zip tie the wires to the mirror in case the detector falls, you don’t want to short out the wiring. Apparently that’s what happened to another mud member and he fried a computer or something. Pretty straightforward, pics should tell the tale.

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Just added three 45W USB-C ports and one USB QC port for $27, normally I wouldn’t post about something so trivial but the bottom cover actually closed over it which I thought was pretty 😎

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