- Thread starter
- #21
I got the first part of the adapter back from machine. This part pilots the OM606 crank and the A343F flex plate / torque converter.
Builds Mercedes OM606 Turbodiesel into FZJ80 - engine refresh and more turbo fun (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter anothernord
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- diesel swap mercedes om606
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Anything new with the 606 swap?
- Thread starter
- #24
Still waiting for machine shops. 
I bought another clean 97' that I'll be swapping in addition to my (red) 96. The 96 will be my practice swap and the 97 will be for sale (eventually).
For one of the builds, I'll be doing a sweet sequential turbo setup. It'll use a GT2554r and the HE351VE. I've roughly sized everything using BorgWarner's excellent "Matchbot" turbo sizing program:
Performance Turbos | BorgWarner Turbo Systems
Here's the primary turbo I'll be using. At my elevation, I hope to get full boost by 1800 RPM before transitioning to the big turbo around 3000 RPM. Both will be instrumented for turbo speed which should be able to read into the DSL1. This way, I can fine-tune the pre-spool and full bypass points in the controller.
Products | Turbochargers
I bought another clean 97' that I'll be swapping in addition to my (red) 96. The 96 will be my practice swap and the 97 will be for sale (eventually).
For one of the builds, I'll be doing a sweet sequential turbo setup. It'll use a GT2554r and the HE351VE. I've roughly sized everything using BorgWarner's excellent "Matchbot" turbo sizing program:
Performance Turbos | BorgWarner Turbo Systems
Here's the primary turbo I'll be using. At my elevation, I hope to get full boost by 1800 RPM before transitioning to the big turbo around 3000 RPM. Both will be instrumented for turbo speed which should be able to read into the DSL1. This way, I can fine-tune the pre-spool and full bypass points in the controller.
Products | Turbochargers
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- Thread starter
- #25
Part of the goal of the sequential setup is just to test my controls knowledge. And to make crazy low-end torque numbers. This is a wheelin' rig after all.
Yes, there are compressors out there that can probably encompass all these points, but what's the fun in that?
Edit: the following doesn't show the operating points on the individual compressors, these would be the theoretical overall operating points. So I'm still learning how to calculate this scenario.
Here's the results from putting all the data into the calculator, with 400 ft-lb available at only 2200 RPM. These are targets, of course and are realistic-best-case.
Yes, there are compressors out there that can probably encompass all these points, but what's the fun in that?
Edit: the following doesn't show the operating points on the individual compressors, these would be the theoretical overall operating points. So I'm still learning how to calculate this scenario.
Here's the results from putting all the data into the calculator, with 400 ft-lb available at only 2200 RPM. These are targets, of course and are realistic-best-case.
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- Thread starter
- #26
The adapter plate is back from the water jet shop. Tomorrow I'll drop it off at my machinist and he'll bring it to thickness and add all the holes in one setup. The material that would otherwise be wasted from cutting out the large hole in the middle will be used to make the flex plate adapter.
Progress, finally!
Progress, finally!
- Thread starter
- #27
I recieved the flex plate adatpter today and fit-checked it with the crank adapter. As I had hoped, it fits like a glove. The final piece of the puzzle, the bell housing adapter, will be delivered in a few days! Then, the teardown begins.
- Thread starter
- #28
The adapter plate is finally finished!
I did a quick test fit of everything. The starter cutout wasn't big enough, so I had to rework that, but it's ready to go otherwise.
Once I get the fittings to plumb the oil cooler, I'll do a test fire of the engine sitting on the floor to make sure the flex plate adapter isn't going to fly out.
I did a quick test fit of everything. The starter cutout wasn't big enough, so I had to rework that, but it's ready to go otherwise.
Once I get the fittings to plumb the oil cooler, I'll do a test fire of the engine sitting on the floor to make sure the flex plate adapter isn't going to fly out.
- Thread starter
- #29
I had to clearance the hole for the starter a bit more, and added new holes for the different bolt pattern of the OM648 rear sump pan. Next, I'm tackling the microsquirt trans controller.
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Great stuff. I love seeing custom projects like these.
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- #31
Thanks a bunch, and there will be more to come! I realize this is still kinda in the boring phase of the project. This will really get interesting when the motor gets dropped in.
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No way, there is no boring phase! I love custom adapters. I’m watching keenly.
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- #33
Here's the little dipstick adapter I designed. It bolts right to the OM648 pan and is sized to accept an off the shelf dipstick. I wanted to make something that other people could easily duplicate (or purchase if I eventually get a kit together to sell)
- Thread starter
- #34
I've been overseas the last week, and have been taking advantage of long plane rides:
There's probably some other controls nerds out there that like this kinda stuff:
The Microsquirt only has 3 inputs to tell it what gear the auto is in. That's a problem when you have 7 different states (P,R,N,D,2,L, OD on/off) that the microsquirt needs to know. So, what you have to do is create a circuit that lets you represent 7 diffeerent states using 3 boolean variables.
Here's the diagram I sketched out with help from the Microsquirt community and user manual.
Next week, I'll be dropping the engine in and fabbing engine mounts. Stay tuned!
There's probably some other controls nerds out there that like this kinda stuff:
The Microsquirt only has 3 inputs to tell it what gear the auto is in. That's a problem when you have 7 different states (P,R,N,D,2,L, OD on/off) that the microsquirt needs to know. So, what you have to do is create a circuit that lets you represent 7 diffeerent states using 3 boolean variables.
Here's the diagram I sketched out with help from the Microsquirt community and user manual.
Next week, I'll be dropping the engine in and fabbing engine mounts. Stay tuned!
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- #35
I've been going crazy with the truck, pulling the old motor, installing the new, fabbing motor mounts, etc.
Here's a fun video of the engine idling briefly to verify oil pressure and the function of the DSL1.
(excuse the fuel can bungeed in the engine bay)
Here's a fun video of the engine idling briefly to verify oil pressure and the function of the DSL1.
(excuse the fuel can bungeed in the engine bay)
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Excellent!
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- #37
Unfortunately, my dreams of leaving the driveline in the stock location were dashed when I found the motor hits the firewall before it will mate to the transmission. So, I decided to move the drivetrain forward a couple inches. This involves lengthening/shortening the shift linkages, new mounts for the shifter and trans mount, and of course adjusting driveshaft length. It really wasn't a ton of work to do but a bit extra expense mainly because of the driveshaft work.
Once the position of the transmission was good, I started on motor mounts. My goal was to make bolt-in engine mounts, and because the stock OM606 mounts were too big, I decided just to use the original 1FZ mounts. As you can see, the mounts turn out to be pretty straightforward.
And the motor in it's final position:
The throttle system has a few needs:
1) 0-5V analog signal for the ECU
2) control the trans kickdown cable
3) interface with original throttle cable
The original 1FZ throttle body perfectly accomplishes these needs, so I just mounted it in the corner of the engine bay. Great conversation starter and super simple.
Once the position of the transmission was good, I started on motor mounts. My goal was to make bolt-in engine mounts, and because the stock OM606 mounts were too big, I decided just to use the original 1FZ mounts. As you can see, the mounts turn out to be pretty straightforward.
And the motor in it's final position:
The throttle system has a few needs:
1) 0-5V analog signal for the ECU
2) control the trans kickdown cable
3) interface with original throttle cable
The original 1FZ throttle body perfectly accomplishes these needs, so I just mounted it in the corner of the engine bay. Great conversation starter and super simple.
It looks like the fan pulley position isn’t too far off of a stock 1fz’s slightly offset position. are you hoping to use the stock rad and fan and possibly shifting rad mount slightly when you cross that bridge ? Or are you planning to do an electrical fan setup?
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- #39
I just installed the OM606 fan and FZJ radiator last night, but didn't look at the shroud. The Merc fan is pretty close to the lower radiator outlet so I doubt the Toyota should will work without mods.
I definitely want to keep the Land Cruiser radiator for a variety of reasons. The water inlet and outlets are basically in the same spot as the Mercedes' radiator anyway.
Very cool!
