Builds Mercedes OM606 Turbodiesel into FZJ80 - engine refresh and more turbo fun (1 Viewer)

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The harness doesn't need to be completely hacked apart for this swap. The stock loom is well-protected and routed nicely along the firewall, so I decided just to cut un-needed plugs off the main harness (making sure to properly insulate, and depin and 12v lines to reduce electrical noise).

Harness before

Harness after (can you spot the differences?)

My goal was to make the electronics be plug-and-play, so I sourced the OEM ECU plug for the 1FZ (I have these available for purchase if anyone wants one)

 
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Update, the DSL1 is fully wired in, all gauges work, and I should be able to put around the neighborhood tonight.

The big stuff left to do is:

install and plumb intercooler
Fab exhaust
Install transmission controller

A note on the last item: automatic transmissions like the A343f still work without electronics, you can manually shift P, R, N, D, 2, and L, you just don't get overdrive. So for all you "I hate electronics and I want a manual so my auto trans wont get water in the ecu on the trail or if an alien invasion with EMP happens my manual will still get me out" guys, just remember that an 80 series auto will still get you around in fully-mechanical mode.

 
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The exhaust is fabbed to the point where I'm comfortable driving it. Getting closer!

I made 2 cuts in the stock downpipe, and re-welded to fit perfectly where the OEM exhaust routes. The cat is tucked neatly above the lower pinch welds and doesn't affect clearance like the original setup.


Here's the shortened/lengthened driveshafts.

I removed the MAF and cut the flange off to fit the 3.5" intake coupler
 
Updates! We demand updates!

Do you think that transmission adapter your designed would theoretically work with a manual like an R151?
 
Updates! We demand updates!

Do you think that transmission adapter your designed would theoretically work with a manual like an R151?

I will post updates later today or tomorrow, have no fear!

The adapter is only designed for the automatic transmission. Just because of the fundamental difference between clutch/flywheel and torque converter/flex plate makes them incompatible. It wouldn't be too hard to design a setup for the R151F or something though.
 
Leaks I have been fixing instead of updating this thread. Most of them are my own doing in combination with Murphy's law.

Oil leaking from the BSPT to NPT connection where I threaded the Toyota oil pressure sender into the Mercedes oil filter housing
Coolant from the lower radiator hose
Diesel leaks from pretty much all the stupid plastic injection pump hoses
Coolant from the defective and warped "genuine Mercedes OEM" fuel heater"
Oil pouring from a cheap eBay -10 AN 90 fitting
Power steering fluid from the steering box

I took a break from being drenched in all types of fluids to wire in the controls suite.

Major components include:
Stock ECU adapter plug
Microsquirt transmission controller
Microsquirt high side driver for the solenoids
An Arduino uno for the interface to the OEM Park/neutral switch


I decided I wanted to add some future I/O to the harness, so I stripped it and added in/removed all the unnecessary wires.

Before:

After many hours and 3 rolls of electrical tape:

The engine bay is mostly done, including my TMOC (top mount oil cooler), which will have a hood scoop (because I'm a Subaru dudebro at heart).


I wandered around the local NAPA until I found the perfect lower radiator hose. It fits great with a bit of trimming.
 
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The project looks great. How much interference did the OM606 have with the fire wall? Also what would you charge for the three adapters?
 
I'm running out of time in my current garage, so I took some time to get an OME 851/860 lift with Fox IPF 2.0 shocks installed.

Scariest step: pressing out old radius arm bushings:

KIMG2614.jpg
 
What happened with the lower radiator outlet and 606fan clearance? Did u shift things around to clear or use a smaller fan etc? (It appears the 80 radiator is in the stock position in those pics)

I didn't have to move the radiator or fan. The stock 606 fan clears the radiator just fine, but the 80 shroud doesn't quite fit so I'll need to fab something or just go with a couple big electric fans.
 
The rig runs and drives! But there's plenty of loose ends to tie up (the exhaust dumps under the passenger seat, for example). Here's some updates:

I went around and around trying to find out the best way to route intercooler pipes. I finally came to the conclusion that the only good way involves going straight through the front frame crossmember. I'll add re-enforcement later but I think there's a good amount of strength for a non-critical part of the frame.

Here's the $75 hole cutter. Hole saws (even bi-metal) will not work at all for this type of cut. This tool made the job pretty easy. Just some time and lots of WD40
What I actually cut out:

Next up, actually mounting and plumbing the intercooler. Right now, I just have a pipe that bypasses the intercooler so I can drive it.

Off to the new garage!
 
Ok, I've been working out all the bugs and have so far put 2 tanks through the truck. This whole project has turned out much better than I expected.

I still haven't installed the front mount and there's a pretty horrible boost leak from the temporary charge piping.

Anyway, initial MPG reports:

First tank city MPG, kinda corrected for big tires 18 mpg
Second tank city MPG, corrected for big tires: ~20 mpg

Here's a couple videos:

Cold start and idle:



Startup and walkaround:





 
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I found that the #6 injector was loose, so this whole time it's been running on 5 1/2 cylinders.

I decided to disassemble and clean the injectors...

Here's all the parts after going through the ultrasonic cleaner:

After they were all clean, I lapped the surfaces with 30 micron sandpaper:
Before:

After:

For the pintle, I used 5 micro sandpaper to remove the minor varnish.

It should be back together with the intercooler this week.
 
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That motor accelerates the 80 pretty well actually. 0-90km/h seems to be around 13 seconds or so? For a stock boost diesel engine in a heavy landcruiser, that is pretty good! I look forward to seeing how it goes when you've tuned it more. Post your results in this thread when you're ready: Ih8mud diesel drag challenge Would be interesting to compare to other engine's in 80's. I think that OM606 will hold it's own.
 
That motor accelerates the 80 pretty well actually. 0-90km/h seems to be around 13 seconds or so? For a stock boost diesel engine in a heavy landcruiser, that is pretty good! I look forward to seeing how it goes when you've tuned it more. Post your results in this thread when you're ready: Ih8mud diesel drag challenge Would be interesting to compare to other engine's in 80's. I think that OM606 will hold it's own.

It's definitely drivable! . Keep mind this is a run without low boost, 5 1/2 cylinders running, and a decent boost leak and no intercooler. I've driven it with higher boost and fewer leaks and it's actually pretty fun. The motor will make 300hp on the stock pump and slightly larger turbo.
 
The 606 has an oil filter housing with integrated oil cooler thermostat and lots of leaking gaskets. I decided to simplify things and get rid of the semi-janky top mount oil cooler, and eliminate some possible failure points by switching to the M104 style oil filter housing. Yes, I'm getting rid of the oil cooler, but I'll just run synthetic oil to combat oil degradation due to heat.

M104 left, OM606 right

I've never had a dual battery setup that I felt good about until now: the Blue Sea 7622 ACR. It's got tons of cool features including a nice dash switch to combine and separate the batteries.

I couldn't do the usual washer bottle relocate due to my vestigal throttle body, so I bought an aftermarket tank made from US Plastics (P/N 14140), then made a bracket using a piece of 1 1/4" square tubing in place of the cruise control actuator (which I've deleted)

New ARB bumper with FMIC hiding behind:
 

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