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Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by mwebfj60, Nov 16, 2017.
Same as the passenger side...maybe they thought those tabs were oil slingers or something.
See now when I read it I instantly thought of Tommy Boy and his quote... "You can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking your head up a bull's a$$ but I would rather take my butcher's word for it."
When I was taking the driver hub off, I pulled the cover/control handle and the rest to clutch came out individually (should come out as one). Snap ring was still holding control handle to cover. Now that I got things cleaned up I found this
That second spring should have its last ring hooked into the groove on the inside of the clutch.
It doesn’t get much better than this, all parts clean and ready for paint and assembly. Kit from Valley Hybrids should be here soon and the puzzle can be pieced together.
Here’s how the shims came out though so a knuckle alignment tool is in order
Now I must get back to work
Not much progress, alignment tool should be here tomorrow so progress can continue. Put the new pads in the calipers. Went with Raybestos Pro Grade across the board with an Advics master.
I noticed the pads are coming out of China now though.
could you happen to make note if that master has the residual pressure valve in place in the rear circuit? Thanks!
Just a suggestion from experience, I got that same Aisin Brake Master cylinder and that rubber
cap on top of the piston cylinder started cracking within two years. Maybe hit it with some
mint oil now to stave that off?? Could just be because I live in a very dry climate...
That’s a negative. There isn’t one in this one or on the one I pulled off. FSM or parts fiche doesn’t show one either. Did it become a built in function of the LSPV?
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll hit it with some Meguires and it will be done with the normal wipe downs of the bay. I’m kind of a keep the engine compartment spotless fanatic.
Got the knuckle centered, well, .12” below Center per FSM..haven’t wrapped my head around that yet. Anyone have an explanation?
Pulled a total of .094” of shims out per side, ended up putting back in .079” to bring it to spec. (1) .020” on the lower to ’center’ it and (1) .039” and (1) .020” on the upper for preload. Both sides were the same end setup and were within .002” of each other.
Used 10 lbs preload for using the alignment tool, final after torquing everything down ended up at 10.5 lbs. Gotta love precision tools.
And the Marlin seal is definitely a superior product over the stock seal.
so, when is that race?
Are your brakes good? I don’t want you rear ending me at the end of the race..
A few progress pics. Should have the TRE kit installed tonight and move to the rear drums. Hoping to be back on the road tomorrow or Wed.
What grease did you use in the knuckles mweb?
What was your painting technique to get those hub dials and lettering so nice? The gold dial color looks spot on to OEM.
I primered and sprayed the cover then used a sanding block to take the paint off the raised lettering. The dial just took a short trip through the buzz box. That’s the original paint I think.