Meet Lucille - A '74 Crusty Back Road Cruiser - Turbo 3RZ W56 Swapped (1 Viewer)

[Lucille]

Lots of tedious work done on Lucille this weekend without much to show for it. Mainly it was re-wiring. As i mentioned previously, i am using a Speedway motors 12-circuit hotrod harness. I mounted it in original 40 location in the drivers side kickpanel and started routing all the wires to the engine bay and to the rear of the vehicle. I was able to weed out a few of the circuits and thin the harness out some. I wanted to save the original headlight switch, but couldnt as the speedway harness uses a dimmer switch to route the headlight power through. So i ordered a GM push button floor mounted switch. I like these anyways, so i wasnt too mad and also bought a Painless wiring headlight switch. I now have proper working headlights/park lights. Starting circuit is also wired in and works via the push button. Next up steering column wiring and gauge cluster wiring. Im using glowshift gauges.

You can see some of the wiring here. Still need to clean it up some, but so far its coming in nicely.

Also, this little guy shipped on Saturday from GL Fab. Cant wait to get it installed.

 

[Lucille]

More wiring work. I hope this helps people out as it took me a while to figure out the steering column wiring as it didnt match any of the diagrams i could find.

For the google search: 1974 FJ40 steering column wiring colors
Green w/ white stripe - to Brake switch
Green w/ red stripe - to horn
Green w/ orange stripe - to right rear turn signal
Green - to left rear turn signal
Green w/ blue stripe - to turn signal flasher (12V + in to column)
Green w/ yellow stripe - to right front turn signal
Green w/ black stripe - to left front turn signal

There is another plug in the column harness as well. This one is for the high beam switch. I am not using it as my high beams are turned on with a floor dimmer switch now. These are white/red, red/yellow, and red/green.

I pulled out the voltmeter and probed it all to figure out what went where. I now have working turn signals and brake lights. With brake lights on, my blinkers still flash in the rear. Only thing i couldnt get to work is my horn. I need to take apart the horn buttons and clean them or get a new wheel all together. Horn works when i ground the wire to the body, so it has to be in the column somewhere. I guess sitting out in the elements for 30+ years messed it up. Ah well. Having turn signals is a small victory here.

I also started putting together the gauge cluster. Summit speedo/tach and GlowShift water temp, oil pressure, boost in the cluster. Fuel and AEM wide band gauges will be in the radio opening i think. Dont really want to drill a hole in the dash.

 

[Lucille]

Also had a DM about my antenna and how its a weird year for 74. So for anyone doing a restoration here are a few pics of how mine attaches to the body.

 

[Lucille]

Gauges are installed and connected. I still need to run the wires to the senders, but everything else functions. turn signal indicators, hi beam indicatior, dimmer, etc.

 

[Lucille]

Looky what showed up today !!!!!

 

[Lucille]

Of course i had to get the manifold installed yesterday. She went on beautifully with zero modifications.

Then i bolted on the holset turbo i had rebuilt by Majestic Turbo in Waco. John did an amazing job as it was filthy and loose when i sent it to him.

I used a smaller hotside than what comes from the factory with this turbo. This one has a 0.82 A/R and will hopefully make it spool faster. Im only using the wastegate spring pressure to get 7-8psi and am using the factory ECU.

Peekaboo

Next is to build the exhaust down, over the bellhousing, then out the drivers side to the rear. No fender exit like i have on my 2JZ F100. Going to stealth mode on Lucille. Im waiting on a few couplers to build the intake side of the turbo so i can mount the maf and IAT sensor and hopefully clear the distributor and plug wires. I think a 4"-to-3" 45 degree coupler will work. Otherwise i may have to use a couple of 90s. I also ordered a new turbo drain fitting as the one i had was to long and interfered with my compresor outlet. I measured and ordered a 36" 4AN SS turbo feed line as well. With any luck, i hope to get it started before i leave for Sand Hollow next thursday.

 

[Lucille]

Worked on the exhaust yesterday. Full 3" that crosses over the transmission and out the drivers side.

Exhaust fully welded out with Wideband and front O2 sensor bungs welded in. The turndown is temporary as i am deciding on what muffler to run.

Old Alex would have had the exhaust dump here. New, more reserved Alex, is running it all the way out the back with a muffler. My 2JZ F100 with 3ft of 4" exhuast out the fender is stupid loud (but cool).

I will paint the exhuast with some VHT black paint and will wrap the entire thing to help with keep the radiant heat down. I wired in the last remaining gauges and idiot lights yesterday as well. This is the last remaining wiring inside and under the dash. She is getting close to a first fire. Dont think i will have the exhaust back in before i leave for Sand Hollow and Moab on Thursday. Ill be wheeling for a few weeks, so progress will be on hold. I need a break anyways. Been busting it on this one.

 

[Lucille]

ITS ALIVE!!!!1

New video by Alex Matula

photos.app.goo.gl

Fit half the exhaust, installed some 02 sensors and it fired right up. Great news considering i have no history on this engine. I do have an issue with the ecu connecting to OBD2. I can see the check engine blinking and my AFR gauge shows it running extremely rich. Oil pressure is great though, so thats good. Now to button up the rest of it.

 

[Lucille]

Built the rest of the exhaust and added a dynamax muffler. Its super quiet know which puts Lucille into sleeper mode. I love it. Its full 3" from turbo all the way out. It needs a rear hanger to be 100% complete. Next up intercooler piping.

*Ignore the amazing condition of the tub. She bad.

 

[thatcabledude]

I’m glad I stumbled onto this thread. Pimp.

 

[peesalot]

?, center tcase output and offset rear, You plan to run it and see how it is, or change it up ? Just curious, have seen a few rigs that say it is a non issue, trail trucks,

 

[Lucille]

?, center tcase output and offset rear, You plan to run it and see how it is, or change it up ? Just curious, have seen a few rigs that say it is a non issue, trail trucks,

My plan is to run it offset and see what happens. If it doesnt work out, I have a mini truck rear end that i can use or may build a centered FJ80 full float rear later on. Hopefully it will be fine up to 55-60 mph.

 

[peesalot]

From what I've seen a good shaft will be fine ( balanced with good joints ), the spot to watch is the rear pinion for looseness and if it is spitting the grease out of u joints thats an indicator of how fast you can go, you'll feel it if it starts vibrating and spitting grease, youll see it splattered under, if you run up to 55 60 and no grease splatters then it could be fine. IMO dont try and run a worn slip spline with the offset, AFAIK the oem slip splines are NLA, Your gonna have a mini truck up top and an fj40 at axle so I would get the long spline from Marlin, use the mini at tcase and put the 40 end on the tube, run the slip up top at tcase. Grease the slip with old school heavy drum brake grease, the chassis grease will just get hot and run out.

 

[Lucille]

From what I've seen a good shaft will be fine ( balanced with good joints ), the spot to watch is the rear pinion for looseness and if it is spitting the grease out of u joints thats an indicator of how fast you can go, you'll feel it if it starts vibrating and spitting grease, youll see it splattered under, if you run up to 55 60 and no grease splatters then it could be fine. IMO dont try and run a worn slip spline with the offset, AFAIK the oem slip splines are NLA, Your gonna have a mini truck up top and an fj40 at axle so I would get the long spline from Marlin, use the mini at tcase and put the 40 end on the tube, run the slip up top at tcase. Grease the slip with old school heavy drum brake grease, the chassis grease will just get hot and run out.

Thanks for the info. I have all kinds of toyota shafts at my disposal from over the years to try and make one that works. I have access to a lathe to balance it. The entire rig vibrates at 60 anyways so whats one more. lol

 

[peesalot]

LOL " the whole rig vibrates at 60 " when I go down the freeway sometimes I can watch the stinger & hood do a little rythm dance, at least its consistent, I 've been lookin for tears on the fenders, bib, hood, fully expected them to appear but after 20+ years of shakin its all good, mine has alot of patina more from rocks than weather.

 

[Lucille]

Welp, Peesalot was correct. I tried to make the offset rear work with my super short driveshaft, but it would have taken an uncomfortable amount of grinding on the yokes to make it work. So out with the old and in with the new(er) rear axle. I had this trail gear rock assault axle on the floor of my shop for years. It came with a project i bought and then later sold. I swapped in a 4:10 geared third to match the front. It has TG chomo shafts and disc brakes. Width is 58" which matched the FJ62 rear that came out of it. I swapped over the spring under mounts and bolted her in.

Driveshaft is this cut little guy. I got it to have about 15 thousandths of runout which should be plenty good for this pile.

With the driveshaft in, i "test drove" it about 2-3" each way to make sure the clutch setup was working. All good there. I also did a lot of maintenance on things this weekend. New output seals for t-case and front/rear axles. Shift boots installed and holes in the tunnel where old shifters went were closed up. I swapped in a tacoma throttle cable and got it to work with the original pedal. Also wired in a few simulators to fool the ECU in thinking some sensors are still connected (EGR and rear O2).

I am still having problems with the ECU not communicating with the OBD2 port. I tried swapping around wires and still nothing. The CEL is on and blinking with it running but i cant hook up my reader to see what the hell is going on. Now its running crazy lean pegging out my AFR gauge. It also runs great with the mass air flow sensor unplugged.

Left to do:
build and mount shroud and electric fan to the radiator
build exhaust hanger for new tailpipe
build Weld up front driveshaft
build Weld up intercooler piping
bleed brakes
figure out this ECU situation
mount passenger seat after changing out to 0-90ohm sending unit in the tank

Its getting close to an actual first test drive.

 

[Lucille]

My new fuel sending unit came in from RCI. Its a universal one for one of their fuel cells. Its close in size and mounting pattern, but not excact. I had to re-drill the mounting pattern and get creative with the bending of the arm. Now i have a 0-90ohm sending unit that will work with my new glowshift gauge. Finally.

Also found a new to me ECU in a junkyard in Georgia. They are shipping it to me and should be in tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes my problems i am having.

 

[Lucille]

Spent a couple hours more in the shop last night and knocked out the electric fan shroud for the radiator. It mounts to the core support in a few places on each side. I used the stop sign from the busy intersection by my house for the shroud. (kidding). It came out pretty good. Fan comes on with the ignition for simplicity. Knocking thinks off the list.

Next up is the intercooler piping for all the boots.

 

[Lucille]

Good news. New to me ECU fixed the issues my old one had. I can now connect to the OBD2 and read the codes, which there wasnt any. Time to finish the intercooler piping and give her all the boots.

 

[Lucille]

Went wheeling over the weekend but made it back early enough yesterday to put in a couple hours on Lucille. Mocked up the intercooler piping. My friend is going to swing by and show me how to weld aluminum. Ive never tig welded so i figured this would be a good way to learn.

I used an el cheapo brushed aluminum ebay piping kit to cut up and make it work with my setup.

Only issue is that i may have to re-route my intake piping as the fiter and the IC piping on the passenger side are trying to occupy the same area.