Builds Meet Ivy, 1976 FJ40 w/VW TDI

Joined
Nov 10, 2011
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403
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Minnesota
I didn't like my gear ratio as soon as I drove it. When I set it up I figured I would use 35" tires. Well I hadn't done any homework on tires before to learn that they say 35 and measure 33.5. And I learned that 1.5" is close to 400 rpms.. So I had the axles that were in the 40 when I bought it with 4.11's. After more calculating I figured with the 33.5" tires those would well. So I drug the axles back into the garage.

I knew when I tore into the 40 that it had been hit on the drivers side, the damage was repaired, I would say a long time ago. The cowl, hood, showed evidence of the repairs. I didn't notice the spring until just now when I brought the axle in to get the 3rd out of it.



Just made me think huh.. it was hit harder than I thought.
I took the rear apart and thought wow. This thing is clean, no bolts stripped. Looked like it had never been apart..


 
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
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Minnesota
Then I moved onto the front end. I need to give a big shout out to Georg @orangefj45 for all his help at this point. I called him to ask questions about the pinion seal, flanges, etc. And he told me to put the front diff in the rear because of less use. And he said he has pinion flanges to work for me. I took the pass side apart like butter. I honestly think this 40 had no miles on it.. The knuckles had not been taken apart before. My thought was that it probably didn't drive very well and that is why it was parked and sat forever..

When I moved onto the drivers side I could not for the life of me get the axle shaft out. I was thinking, come on... I have rebuild a couple of 60 axles, took the pass side apart in 10 minutes... What the h..ll was the problem... So, another call to Georg....

He said that when the tubes get bent they won't let the shaft come out... Big light bulb overhead moment... Sure enough it was bent. So I put a slice in it to relieve the pressure and the shaft slid right out.



Now that I have a couple real nice 3rd's I will give Georg another call today( he is probably tired of hearing from me by now..) And get the pinion flanges ordered so I can get these guys in.. Way too much salt on the road here to really test them out. But I can do some cruising on some dirt roads.



I am very glad we figured out the the tube was bent. I was gonna sell that axle to someone who wanted a disc front end. I would have felt really bad when they had problems. This way, I will just sell the complete knuckles and shafts..




And when I got to work the nice postal person left me more parts. A larger oil cooler/warmer for the ALH off of a newer Passat.



Now I just have to get some stuff done!!!
 
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Nov 10, 2011
Messages
403
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Minnesota
Just an upgrade I wanted to make. My thought process was that on tdiforum.com some claim it is a necessary upgrade. Due to our higher horsepower. Making more heat?!?! It comes factory on the Passat NMS which is (I think) 140hp?? Couldn't hurt I figured..
 
Joined
Apr 2, 2014
Messages
249
I had the original oil cooler (same one yours came with) on the last truck conversion I did and it wasn’t able to keep up on the freeway. I ended up building an oil to air exchanger and had to run a thermostatic plate, a thermo switch and a fan assembly to keep it within spec. When 4 wheeling that fan would be cycling constantly trying to keep the oil within spec. Other than that it would always run too cool with air flowing over it. The other downside was that the oil would take ages to warm up without the engine coolant to help. The result was an oil temperature in the sump with a range too wide for my liking.

On this last truck I decided to go for the larger water to oil exchanger and test to see if it works. The idea being that i would put an air exchanger in-line with it if it struggles. This new water to oil exchanger works extremely well. The sump temperature is held just above the water temperature at all times, even while warming up. Nice and simple with no additional ancillaries needed as well!

Mike
 

HandForged

Built Not Bought!
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I had the original oil cooler (same one yours came with) on the last truck conversion I did and it wasn’t able to keep up on the freeway. I ended up building an oil to air exchanger and had to run a thermostatic plate, a thermo switch and a fan assembly to keep it within spec. When 4 wheeling that fan would be cycling constantly trying to keep the oil within spec. Other than that it would always run too cool with air flowing over it. The other downside was that the oil would take ages to warm up without the engine coolant to help. The result was an oil temperature in the sump with a range too wide for my liking.

On this last truck I decided to go for the larger water to oil exchanger and test to see if it works. The idea being that i would put an air exchanger in-line with it if it struggles. This new water to oil exchanger works extremely well. The sump temperature is held just above the water temperature at all times, even while warming up. Nice and simple with no additional ancillaries needed as well!

Mike
I'm glad you fellers have and are hashing all of this out...HA! I had not even given it a thought as of yet.
 
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
403
Location
Minnesota
I had the original oil cooler (same one yours came with) on the last truck conversion I did and it wasn’t able to keep up on the freeway. I ended up building an oil to air exchanger and had to run a thermostatic plate, a thermo switch and a fan assembly to keep it within spec. When 4 wheeling that fan would be cycling constantly trying to keep the oil within spec. Other than that it would always run too cool with air flowing over it. The other downside was that the oil would take ages to warm up without the engine coolant to help. The result was an oil temperature in the sump with a range too wide for my liking.

On this last truck I decided to go for the larger water to oil exchanger and test to see if it works. The idea being that i would put an air exchanger in-line with it if it struggles. This new water to oil exchanger works extremely well. The sump temperature is held just above the water temperature at all times, even while warming up. Nice and simple with no additional ancillaries needed as well!

Mike
Thanks Mike! Nice to hear it works like it should.
 
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
403
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Minnesota
Got a few pieces done at the powder coater. He was a bit busy, took him a couple weeks.. Which was a okay, I had plenty of hunny do's to catch up on. It will be nice to have it drivable again tho. Now that I can drive it, I don't like when its down...



The parts look splotchy, but thats just the moisture on them, I just brought them in from outside, and its -3 F this morning..
 
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
403
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Minnesota
Things have been going pretty slow progress wise.. I did manage to get a few things done. Got the tunnel back in. Put some sound deadener on it. I use some products from Cascade Audio Engineering. I really like their stuff. This one had a lead membrane in the middle. Really nice for shaping around the tunnel!!

And I lengthened the NV3550 shifter 3 inches and put a couple bends in it. It sure feels better sitting in the seat. I will wait to paint it until I can drive it a bit to make sure on the location.

 
Joined
Nov 10, 2011
Messages
403
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Minnesota
Short. And not short enough. I plan on lowering the drivers side 1" before winter is over. And I just talked to my wife this morning about making her seat not move forward and back. Because then I could lower hers about 1 1/2 inches. If I remember correctly, I had to make the pass side 1" higher than the drivers...

I can measure them for you. It might be Thursday. I can put the pass seat back in now that the tunnel is back in.
 
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Nov 10, 2011
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Minnesota
I had a set of manual seats out of an 08 FJ Cruiser laying around. So that is what I used. They were not very tall. But, after they were in, top on, etc. I think they are a little too tall.
 

HandForged

Built Not Bought!
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I think I had mine measured at 7" tall, using the factory 80 seats for Mock up. I am planning to use tubing to go across the tub and tie into the eventual roll cage. For now I will just bend some tubing and sculpt it to clear the tunnel. I have been playing with the height, to see what feels the best.
 
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Seat height is a problem. I have read a lot of threads where people talk about how high the seat ended up. I left the tank under the seat on the pass side. That is why it is taller. To clear the tank.

When you say 7" is that to the top of the bottom pad?
 

HandForged

Built Not Bought!
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Seat height is a problem. I have read a lot of threads where people talk about how high the seat ended up. I left the tank under the seat on the pass side. That is why it is taller. To clear the tank.

When you say 7" is that to the top of the bottom pad?
No that is to the bottom of the steel sliders on the seat. I don't have the problem of a fuel tank in the passenger side floor. I do have the drivers tool box I was hoping to utilize but losing it isn't a big deal.
 
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Messages
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@HandForged I got a couple pics for you this morning. Hope they help.









I didn't get my pass seat back in like i planned. But I wanted to make sure I got you some pic. I did move the drivers seat back a couple inches. I am close to 6'2" so moving it back was kinda a necessity for comfort.
 

HandForged

Built Not Bought!
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Messages
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@HandForged I got a couple pics for you this morning. Hope they help.
I didn't get my pass seat back in like i planned. But I wanted to make sure I got you some pic. I did move the drivers seat back a couple inches. I am close to 6'2" so moving it back was kinda a necessity for comfort.
Thanks!, Looks like you're at about the same final height that I had planned. I'll be building my seat mounts out of 1" tube most likely to eventually tie them into the cage I have planned.
 
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