Mechanical or Electric????

Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
8,118
Location
Kansastitty
 
 
 
I'm going to install extra oil pressure and temp guages on my new motor. What would you use for the oil pressure, mechanical or electric.
Next question is....what brand?

I have read other posts, but I'm getting ready to actually do it.


Thanks for your indulgence.




Ed
 

Poser

Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
s-Moderator
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Oct 1, 2003
Messages
20,451
Location
MN
 
 
 
If you are comfortable with having engine oil routed into the cabin, go mechanical, if not, go electrical.

I have ran a mechanical auto meter oil pressure gauge on my truck since 1988, and if the tube is routed properly, secured and protected, you should not have any issues with it.



Good luck!


-Steve
 
Joined
Apr 21, 2004
Messages
654
Location
San Diego, CA
 
i would go with electric, as i hate the idea of having oil and water lines running into the truck. for brand, i really like my Autometer gauges. i have used them for years, and havent really had an issue.
Shane
 
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
8,118
Location
Kansastitty
 
 
 
Poser said:
If you are comfortable with having engine oil routed into the cabin, go mechanical, if not, go electrical.

I have ran a mechanical auto meter oil pressure gauge on my truck since 1988, and if the tube is routed properly, secured and protected, you should not have any issues with it.



Good luck!


-Steve

Poser, do you run copper or nylon tubing? Coils for flex like brake lines? Grommets through firewall, etc.???

Ed
 
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
1,566
Location
Grand Forks B.C.
If you run a mechanical def. run the copper line. Once helped a freind of a freind with distributor install and first start of a big block in a 65 GTO. Nylon line to close to header, melted though aftera few minuits at 1400 rpm, lots of oil pres. Car went up like a blow torch. go copper.
 

Poser

Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
s-Moderator
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Oct 1, 2003
Messages
20,451
Location
MN
 
 
 
Degnol said:
Poser, do you run copper or nylon tubing? Coils for flex like brake lines? Grommets through firewall, etc.???

Ed

Nylon line, zero issues. Do not over-tighten the little brass fitting!(this is true with copper or nylon) snug will be just fine.



I run it inside a fiberglass heat sleeve material that I purchased from Waytek. This is used in the engine bay and through the firewall....I then tied in a piece of small nylon split loom from waytek so that it is protected under the dash also. I leave a little extra under the dash in case a ferrule needs to be replaced sometime later on. It is routed through a grommet on the firewall. There is not enough movement of the engine to worry about having a coil like brake lines...just a little slack and you will be fine.


An electrical insturment is not a bad option....protect the wire the same way you would the nylon tube if you route it by exhaust....your oil pressure port should be on the oil filter/oil cooler base on your 2F....so non-factor.



There is not any water going into the cabin with a mechanical water temperature gauge, but rather, a bourdon tube that has an inert gas trapped inside that is used to cause the gauge to indicate temperature. From what I understand, the gas is heated and expands, pushing on a diaphragm that is connected to the indicating needle inside the gauge, giving you your temperature reading. Do not kink this during installation, as the gas will be blocked, and not allowed to reach the gauge.



Good luck!


-Steve
 

65swb45

Elder Statesman
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Apr 14, 2004
Messages
28,597
Location
818-953-9230
 
 
 
Ed, I run a mech oil pressure guage as well. The thing I like about the copper is not only is it more heat resistant than the nylon, but the simple fact that NOTHING lasts forever, and my buddy had his copper line fail in the middle of the Dusy Ershim trail. A few seconds later, we had the line crimped off. Nylon doesn't crimp so easy!;p

So, if you're actually gonna use the rig on the trail, go copper.;)

As for brand, I can only say I have had poor luck with VDO and won't use any of their stuff again. Get one with a 270 degree sweep rather than a 90 degree sweep.
 
Joined
Jun 16, 2004
Messages
636
Location
Northern Vermont
 
 
 
Had a nylon line pop on me and blow about a quart of hot oil on my legs. Granted it was not protected correctly. Switched to the braided line ($$$). The copper tends to carry engine vibration to the gauge and make it rattle.

I always used mechanicals because the electrics of the past were not very accurate, however the newer electrics have supposedly addressed this.
 
Joined
Jul 9, 2004
Messages
3,997
Location
Montgomery Co. TEXAS
 
 
 
Ed - I'm in the same situation and I've been leaning toward AutoMeter electrics, mainly for ease of installation and no fluids in the cab. I'd be interested in hearing if the newer electrics are as accurate tho.
 

Coolerman

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 5, 2004
Messages
6,665
Location
Paint Lick, KY
 
 
 
This is a topic being discussed on the LCML right now. www.speedwaymotors.com has an adaptor kit for $19.95 that allows a standard 1/8" NPT fitted gauge to use a stainless braided teflon cored line. The kit includes two AN#4 to 1/8" NPT adaptors and up to 48" of braided line with AN#4 ends. Part #6174060. (Find courtesy of John Dunkman)
 

Trollhole

THC
Supporting Vendor
Moderator
Joined
Mar 6, 2005
Messages
20,965
Location
Mauldin, SC
 
 
 
What would be nice is to have both, I've thought about putting a Y at the block. The PO disconnected the stock guage and put in a mechanical one. I like it cause it's accurate but I would like to see my stock guage since it is in a better position. The reason I haven't done it because I'm worried the T fitting might be a weak point with engine vibration.
 

Poser

Oh...Durka Durka Durka.
s-Moderator
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Oct 1, 2003
Messages
20,451
Location
MN
 
 
 
Trollhole said:
The reason I haven't done it because I'm worried the T fitting might be a weak point with engine vibration.


Then use a hose and route it to the firewall, or some other place, and make a manifold...
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2002
Messages
190
 
Running mechanical oil/h20 guages here. The blue colored hose goes from motor to gauge inside the cab. It is a parker brand push-on type (similiar to socketless hose), do not remember the exact max temp it can take, but it is high enough that other things in engine bay will be failing from the heat before it goes.

Strong points for soft line like this; 1) easier to route 2) vibration tolerant
oil hose.JPG
 
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
8,118
Location
Kansastitty
 
 
 
My second thought was to install an "idiot" light with a sensor for 20psi minimum. I really don't care what the oil pressure is, just that there is some.
Same thing for an "over-temp" idiot light. I am getting ready to install a refreshed 2F and just don't want to fry it.
Who has installed "idiot" lights? Who's did you use? I suppose any would work, maybe Summit?

Thanks,

Ed
 
Joined
Nov 14, 2004
Messages
3,399
Location
PNW
 
 
 
I use copper 1/8" tube run through 1/4" vacuum hose for mechanical O/P gauge.
The rubber stops the rattle.
Plastic gauge tube gets brittle over time and will break suddenly.

A quality electric water temp gauge is good. Autometer makes good stuff.
 
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
Messages
8,118
Location
Kansastitty
 
 
 
Well, I'd like to run a gauge, or gauges AND an idiot light. For the oil pressure, I can use the stock sender on the oil cooler and another by drilling and tapping another of the bolts that hold the cooler itself on to the cast iron piece.



Like this....
dogs 004.jpg
 

Users Who Are Viewing This Thread (Users: 0, Guests: 1)

Top Bottom