max safe water temp

[coldtaco]

Ok, been trying to find what is the max safe water temp. Tried searching with different words and can't find my answer.
So, what is considered to be max safe water temp? In my application is for a 2H turbo'd. Don't know if application matters.
Thanks.

 

[fitzmooney]

Boiling point should be about 120c with a good pressure cap.
I would not be happy if it got much over 100c.

 

[coldtaco]

thanks.
Nice Mooney I used to fly DC-6 and C-46 Now King Air 200

 

[fitzmooney]

It's a 231. Had it for 25 years. Would love a new Acclaim, but a bit beyond my means.

 

[wrongway around]

Tranny temps ?

 

[coldtaco]

No idea, it's a manual.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Boiling point should be about 120c with a good pressure cap.
I would not be happy if it got much over 100c.

This.

Oils start to degrade at around 100c.
If you're seeing temps above 100c you've got problems
A higher pressure rad cap gives you a bigger safety margin

 

[coldtaco]

well, here is more info. newly rebuilt radiator with a new 4 (?) row core.
1/4 factory gauge=185-190F
1/2 factory gauge=205-210F
I haven't been able to try any long hill climbs yet, hope to be able to in a few days, I have to drive about 3hrs round trip.

 

[colby1979]

Your temps will definitely be higher on long hill climbs, ambient temp and higher elevation will compound the issue. When I was running NA 3Bs I would back off the throttle once it started getting over 205f as swapping heads and gaskets isn't any fun plus you run the risk of dropping a precup. I tried the turbo thing, my opinion is there great at lower elevation and cooler temps but heat soak the whole system pulling hills at elevation, these are idi motors not designed to shead that much heat.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Your temps will definitely be higher on long hill climbs, ambient temp and higher elevation will compound the issue. When I was running NA 3Bs I would back off the throttle once it started getting over 205f as swapping heads and gaskets isn't any fun plus you run the risk of dropping a precup. I tried the turbo thing, my opinion is there great at lower elevation and cooler temps but heat soak the whole system pulling hills at elevation, these are idi motors not designed to shead that much heat.

^ That is some of the best experience I've read on this website, and matches my experience with a turbo IDI diesel (2LTE). I tow a camper every summer often in 30C (85F) temps up some big hills. IDI's loose a lot of heat into the coolant via the pre-cup head design. Thats why DI engines are more efficient and run cooler even with turbo.

My solution to the problem is running a waterless coolant. Doesn't boil until 375F (190C). The 2LTE is especially prone to heat problems when regular coolant starts localized boiling in the head causing hot spots and eventual failure. The same can happen to any IDI turbo diesel though. After switching to the waterless coolant, it doesn't matter how hot I get the motor, I have no problems at all. I try not to abuse it though as I don't want my oil temps too hot. I have done things to my 2LTE that I don't think any one else has, so the stuff has really proven it's self. I've run it up to 240F a handful of times every summer without issue (while cresting long hills). Coolant barely even expands into the expansion tank.

I've had such good success I'll be using the stuff in any IDI turbo diesel I ever own. Although I do hope the next motor will be DI.

 

[jccruzer]

^ That is some of the best experience I've read on this website, and matches my experience with a turbo IDI diesel (2LTE). I tow a camper every summer often in 30C (85F) temps up some big hills. IDI's loose a lot of heat into the coolant via the pre-cup head design. Thats why DI engines are more efficient and run cooler even with turbo.

My solution to the problem is running a waterless coolant. Doesn't boil until 375F (190C). The 2LTE is especially prone to heat problems when regular coolant starts localized boiling in the head causing hot spots and eventual failure. The same can happen to any IDI turbo diesel though. After switching to the waterless coolant, it doesn't matter how hot I get the motor, I have no problems at all. I try not to abuse it though as I don't want my oil temps too hot. I have done things to my 2LTE that I don't think any one else has, so the stuff has really proven it's self. I've run it up to 240F a handful of times every summer without issue (while cresting long hills). Coolant barely even expands into the expansion tank.

I've had such good success I'll be using the stuff in any IDI turbo diesel I ever own. Although I do hope the next motor will be DI.

Hi GTSSsportCooupe
How many jugs of W/L coolant approx. on 2LTE radiator? I have exactly same model as yours but the engine hasn't modified yet, got this RH-
Prado 1991 last year from my friend, planning to bypass the egr 's , I was reading your post, thinking this coming long weekend.
cheers,
JC

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hi GTSSsportCooupe
How many jugs of W/L coolant approx. on 2LTE radiator? I have exactly same model as yours but the engine hasn't modified yet, got this RH-
Prado 1991 last year from my friend, planning to bypass the egr 's , I was reading your post, thinking this coming long weekend.
cheers,
JC

I don't want to sidetrack this thread much, but I bought 2 gallons of the Evans prep agent, and then 3 gallons of the Evans 'high performance' coolant. It's ultra important that you get all the water out. PM me if you do the job and I'll give you some hints. You'd also be better off getting 4 gallons of the coolant; 3 was cutting it too close, and nice to have extra. I'd also HIGHLY recommend getting a higher flowing thermostat. The OEM 2LTE thermostat is too restrictive. By a Tridon high flow thermostat for the 2LTE from Australia Ebay. Tridon High Flow Thermostat TOYOTA HILUX DIESEL 2L 2LTE 3L 5L 5LE 88-05 Finally, make sure your viscous fan is working really well. Those three things will protect your engine from overheating issues (unless it's already damaged).

 

[coldtaco]

Well, finally got to go do a longish run this morning to see what the water temps are doing.
Drove first at 55mph/outside air temp of 58F/light rain. Water temp steady at 200F
Got to the 65mph section/outside air temp 58F/light rain. Water temp slowly climbed to 215F before I chickend out and turned around.
Returning I did 60mph and water temp remained steady at 215F.
Back in the 55mph section water temp steady at 200F.
And if I turn the inside heater on and fan on full, the temp drops about 5-8F.
Thoughts? Seems too high to me, does not seem to give me any room for hill climbs

 

[fitzmooney]

How did you get the temperature comparisons with the factory gauge readings?

 

[colby1979]

What elevation are you at?

I would be concerned with those water temps at those speeds as their already high and don't leave you much margin for higher speed, hill climbs, higher air temps and higher elevation. Like gtssportcoup said, you may want to try the waterless coolant to eliminate localized boiling, I personally dont have any experience with it though. Hows your fan clutch? I drilled completely through one on a 3b with turbo and bolted it solid and it made a noticeable difference in cooling but was quite loud. Also, theres some good threads in the 80s section about timing the clutch to engage sooner and running up to 30,000 cst silicone oil in them, have no idea if its possible with the 2h clutch though?

If I was in your position and the things mentioned above didn't make much difference I would consider removing the turbo and turning the fuel back down, especially if the speeds you mentioned are what you usually cruise at.

 

[coldtaco]

60ft elevation.
water temp and factory gauge was listed above. kept factory water temp gauge and installed a stand alone manual water temp gauge.

 

[fitzmooney]

If your mechanical gauge is reading right, then your factory gauge is reading way too low.
Checked with an ir gauge my factory gauge is just under the red line at 100c.
That was idling stationary for an extended period with aicon on a 44c day.
Normal running it sits about the middle reading 80c on a 30c day.
Mine is a turboed 2H running 15psi and fuel upped to 650c max.

 

[colby1979]

Yep, your not very high...

A mechanical gauge is the most important item you can install in a diesel cruiser!

Check out landtanks thread on the fan clutch mod in the 80 series section, may really help your temps.

 

[fitzmooney]

The factory gauge is only an indication using the normal position of the needle as a guide.
If it differs from the norm, you are then alerted to a problem.

 

[coldtaco]

good thing I didn't have a separate water temp gauge on the 4300mi. drive home During this drive I saw at least once, maybe twice, the factory water temp needle reach the 3/4or slightly higher during a hard long climb. backed off then.
Might have to change the silicone in the fan clutch.
I have noticed that the bottom 4-5in. of the radiator does not get any direct air flow to it. I am working on a plan for a air scoop to direct air here.