Mating transmission to engine...when does the fork go in? (1 Viewer)

[JohnJL]

I have been struggling to get the tranmission/transfer case to mate to the clutch/engine. I had to resort to dropping the rear of the motor and using a lifting table to get the transmission close to the clutch. Had to remove all the transfer case linkages and the ebrake drum too. Also had to use a ratchet strap to pull the transmission into the case, and 3 dowels in 3 of the 4 transmission/transfer case mounting bolt holes.

This is a 1974 FJ40 with stock transmission and transfer case. They have all been previously installed together.

I couldnt get the transmission input shaft close to the clutch, and I read here of some people installing the clutch fork once the transmission was partially mounted. I have mine mostly mated together, about 1" away and cant seem to get the fork into place. I am really frustrated and must have taken it apart/back together 5 times now. Can someone please help me, when does the fork go into place? Before the input shaft inserts into the clutch plate? THe fork seemed in the way no matter how I contorted it. Does is go in a little less or a little more mated than what is shown below?

Thanks to the help please and thank you!

 

[hobbes]

I remember your initial post below. Sorry you haven’t gotten it yet. In the second thread below, on post 33 I describe how I moved the clutch fork from the DS to the PS with the engine and trans installed n my 1974. So, at least on a year 74 you can install the either before or after the engine and trans mate. Obviously, the bearing needs to be on now.

Struggling to get transmission installed

Hi all, I have been struggling for a week of nights trying to get the 4-speed back into the FJ. The body is new, but the frame, engine and clutch were all together before...I am struggling to physically get the transmission snout close to the clutch. I have the factory manual and haynes manuals...

forum.ih8mud.com

Mixing clutch slave parts from different years

Clear photo of what part of a 76 clutch setup?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[JohnJL]

I remember your initial post below. Sorry you haven’t gotten it yet. In the second thread below, on post 33 I describe how I moved the clutch fork from the DS to the PS with the engine and trans installed n my 1974. So, at least on a year 74 you can install the either before or after the engine and trans mate. Obviously, the bearing needs to be on now.

Struggling to get transmission installed

Hi all, I have been struggling for a week of nights trying to get the 4-speed back into the FJ. The body is new, but the frame, engine and clutch were all together before...I am struggling to physically get the transmission snout close to the clutch. I have the factory manual and haynes manuals...

forum.ih8mud.com

Mixing clutch slave parts from different years

Clear photo of what part of a 76 clutch setup?

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for the reply. Do I have to move it over to the passenger side? It was on the driver side before and I have the hoses all properly installed.

If I want to keep it on the right can you help with what order to get it together? I have the factory manual, I thought I already tried all the ways that could be interpreted from those instructions.

Thanks

 

[73FJ40]

@JohnJL

Assuming you have all the right parts for installing a four speed transmission and bell housing with a three speed flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing and fork: (fork inserted on the driver's side)

Everyone has their own way of doing this, but I recall that I had my throwout bearing attached to the fork and in place BEFORE I stabbed the input shaft into the bell housing. the inner bore of the throwout bearing just rests on the input
then the input shaft cover.

It appears to me you are less than an inch from home. In my opinion, it may be that your transmission input shaft is not aligned with the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft. If so, it's because the clutch plate isn't centered in the pressure plate, so the input shaft can't fit into the pilot bearing.

I had the same situation, so I fastened a ratcheting strap around the end of the fork, and the rear shock cross member:

This releases the clutch disc from the pressure plate, and allows the input shaft to align with the pilot bearing with a shake on the transmission...

 

[73FJ40]

@JohnJL :

Oops, I forgot the early 1974 models were originally equipped with what had been three speed flywheels, clutches, pressure plates, throwout bearings and forks. So, with what you have, all of this fits together with the fork on the driver side.

There's no reason to even consider moving the fork to the passenger side.

 

[hobbes]

No, you do not have to move your clutch fork. It is factory located on the DS. I had a mashup of 1974 and 1975 parts which didn’t work to well. In the thread above I settled (with some smart help) on going with the later year setup based on where I was at. No real need to in your case.

No reason to not have the fork installed first that I know of, unless it is hitting something. There are two clips that hold it on the bearing.

Like 73FJ40 said, I’d guess you input shaft is not quite aligned with the bearing.

 

[65swb45]

I personally can’t imagine in my minds eye how to get the fork in after the fact, and have only ever installed the trans after.

There’s also the fact that the head of the bolt that holds the pivot is obscured by the front of the 4 speed .

 

[shelfboy1]

ive done that twice and was able to get the fork in without removing the tranny had to remove the pivot ball though also did one in the bush when one cracked in half but it was many years ago

 

[saltydog20]

Did you use the plastic clutch alignment tool to make sure the clutch plate is lined up. And then if you get a helper to turn the engine while you shimmy the tranny it will slip on. At least that was my experience...
I would also release the tension on those straps so you can "shimmy" it into place.

 

[JohnJL]

No, you do not have to move your clutch fork. It is factory located on the DS. I had a mashup of 1974 and 1975 parts which didn’t work to well. In the thread above I settled (with some smart help) on going with the later year setup based on where I was at. No real need to in your case.

No reason to not have the fork installed first that I know of, unless it is hitting something. There are two clips that hold it on the bearing.

Like 73FJ40 said, I’d guess you input shaft is not quite aligned with the bearing.

The problem I have had is that in order to pick up the throwout bearing when stabbing the input shaft it I couldnt get the transmission back far enough...it was interfering with the cross member. Maybe witha little more tilt I can get it to work...

 

[hobbes]

Tilt the back of the engine? I removed my back motor mounts for the install to help the angle.

Edit: in my case I was installing the engine and the trans was still the in the truck, not that I think it matters.

 

[73FJ40]

@JohnJL

If, like you indicated in your original post, "This is a 1974 FJ40 with stock transmission and transfer case. They have all been previously installed together", is it safe to assume they were installed in this truck? If so, how did you take it apart?

If not, you have to provide a lot more pictures and details....

 

[JohnJL]

Thanks to all who pitched in. I finally go the transmission and motor mated last night. Here are some points for others if its helpful:

1. I had to remove the ebrake drum front the rear of the transfer case, otherwise it fouled the crossmember.
2. I had to remove the transfer case linkages or they fouled the passenger side rail.
3. Get the transmission close to the bellhousing then feed the throwout bearing with the clips on the clutch fork. Feed the throwout bearing onto the transmission input shaft carefully so the clips dont pull off and the bearing falls or you ahve to try and re-clip it inside the bellhousing.
4. I used 3 7/16 dowels 5" in length. One end I sanded down a bit around the circumference and inserted into the threaded bellhousing holes. The other end of the dowels are inserted into the transmission case bolt holes. This helped make sure I had the motor and the transmission at the same angle and coming at each other straight.
5. I had to tilt the rear of the motor down quite a bit, perhaps 4". That necessitated removing the exhaust pipe from the manifold, removing the rear motor mounts, removing the radiator supports, removing the carb linkage, loosening the radiator and making sure nothing collided. The rear of the motor nearly touched the firewall when tilted down.
6. A ratchet strap around the transmission helps pull it into the bellhousing. One end was wrapped around the starter, the other end hooked to a bolt in the motor mount position.
7. My clutch pressure plate has a series of 7/15 holes drilled in the perimeter. With the bellhousing block-off plate removed you can use a 7/16 bar to move the clutch a bit back and forth to help the clutch and input shaft align when you are close.

This was easily the biggest PIA job that I didnt expect.

Thanks for all the help! Now to spend the next few nights putting it all back together...