Matching 045 White Paint OEM Finish

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Feb 26, 2015
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I'm about to address a couple rust patches on my hood and cowl, and will need to paint a couple areas. Does anyone know if the 045 single stage is an urethane or lacquer?

I'm looking into the PPG Omni acrylic urethane... im mostly worried the finish is not going to match and will be too glossy.

Anyone with body experience? I'd love to get your input and advice.
 
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Here's the cold sore I'm trying to fix:
20210713_121645.jpg
 
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I had mine repainted a couple of years back and it looks new. I asked the same question (it was done at one of the local Toyota body shops) and the body shop mamger told me this was the easiest paint they ever mixed, and that they could do it with any brand, since the pigment was essentialy out of one can. I didn't watch them mix it, so I don't know if that's really how it was done, but I do know the color and finish came out perfect.
 
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Weird, my second reply didn't go through, apparently.

The most important factor in matching the existing paint is probably the color of the primer that you use. I don't know what Toyota used under 045.
 
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I went to a shop called National Coatings Supply and told them I wanted single stage urethane in Toyota 045 in a spray can and a small amount in a regular can for touch ups. They only had one single stage brand paint to choose from. Not sure what it was. Repainted a portion of the roof, tailgate, and touch ups on the hood and doors and It looks great.

ED43C993-4A65-4903-9D3B-46111FF9F7F1.jpeg
 
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Weird, my second reply didn't go through, apparently.

The most important factor in matching the existing paint is probably the color of the primer that you use. I don't know what Toyota used under 045.
Pretty sure that use standard grey primer, because I can see some of the body panels were the factory paint didn't get... so I will go with the ordinary primer as well, thanks for that
 
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AsKnifght: have you looked at the underside of your hood ie: underneath where the rust is poking out of the sheet metal?

The hood is often one of the first places for rust to show up, it tends to start under the support/frame or where the factory seam sealer was applied underneath the "nose" of the hood ie: it rusts from the inside out.
 
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AsKnifght: have you looked at the underside of your hood ie: underneath where the rust is poking out of the sheet metal?

The hood is often one of the first places for rust to show up, it tends to start under the support/frame or where the factory seam sealer was applied underneath the "nose" of the hood ie: it rusts from the inside out.
i assumed it got a ding, but it could very easily be part of a seam. The seam bottom itself is rust free, but i can see surface rust up in there.

If this were my case... Would the repair be much different? I was gonna sand down to clean metal, apply rust converter, prime and paint.
 
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Can you take a few more photos, hood open, from inside the engine bay looking out to get a photo of the backside/underside of where the hood rust is in the photo above.

I'm not a autobody/paint expert, but IME unless you completely remove or properly treat/kill any rust, it will come back. Main advantage of fixing it now would be to slow down future damage.
 
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Can you take a few more photos, hood open, from inside the engine bay looking out to get a photo of the backside/underside of where the hood rust is in the photo above.

I'm not a autobody/paint expert, but IME unless you completely remove or properly treat/kill any rust, it will come back. Main advantage of fixing it now would be to slow down future damage.
20210714_205500.jpg


20210714_205346.jpg
 
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@Kernal ... I posted a couple pics in a reply post. (Or tried to anyway)... let me know if you cant see em.

I welcome anyone's opinion on how to fix this. Cheers!
 
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I would remove the hood, take a 3M stripping disc on a 4.5" grinder, and take off all the paint in the rusted area and all of -- what I assume is -- old seam sealer on the underside. Then I would stand it up against a wall, nose down, and build a little pool out of plastic sheeting. Dump in Evaporust if you're fancy or Klean-Strip Prep & Etch (phosphoric acid) and leave it for a few days. I'm sure that seam is currently full of moderate rust that you have to convert.
 
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Have you thought about just getting some touch up paint from the dealer to avoid hassle? The 93 Hilux I used to own came from the dealer with a can of touch up paint when it was bought new. No idea what they charge, but I can't imagine it'd be a fortune. For small touch-up jobs, it might be the easiest option.
 

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