Master window switch (1 Viewer)

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Nov 14, 2017
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Location
Florida
So my window switch assembly, 84040-60091 Toyota MASTER SWITCH ASSY, POWER WINDOW REGULATOR, started giving me issues. The little switch lights would stay on when closing the door, thus draining the battery after sitting for a few days. Replaced the battery and switch assembly. The eBay switch assembly is crap! Not worth the BS, BTW.

In my replacement mode, I noticed that the previous owner (I’m #2) must have had an issue with the switch, as there was a ground wire tied into the switch’s and then grounded to the door. That said, the ground wire removal and reinstall had no affect to working correctly, with the old switch or new after market POS. So I’m not so sure what it was p0ut in place for.

The after market POS switch is a bit crude. The drivers switch works ok, except that the auto up/dwn does not work, the rest are very unstable, harsh in the way they toggle. The lights go off when closing the doors now, so that’s the only thing I got out of buying this, again, POS.

I see a few places to buy a new one, at between $540-$890!!!!!!!! WOW! a few eBay sellers from the middle east are offering some at around $450, but how can one trust this kind of purchase, and what if it doesn’t work??????

Anyone have experinece and/or suggestions? I’d rather not have to buy after market, unless you know of a company that sells a good/great one, if there’s such an animal.

A pre ciate it!
 
Check RockAuto
 
I recently had the driver's window replaced after a break-in and it seems that during the repair the master switch suffered some damage while being removed. Short story is my rear passenger window will roll down from the master switch but not up, but will function normally from that rear passenger door's switch.

Shop tested switch and said "it has an open circuit" so I wanted to check in here before I buy a new Switch. Does the "open circuit" point specifically to either a raw wire as some have experienced or more towards the switch itself failing? Wasn't sure if that diagnosis is enough to go on to make a determination.

Also the window always worked fine, no intermittent action etc., prior to the shop removing it to replace the glass, so that's why I lean more towards the switch than the wires being exposed. I welcome your advice.
 
I recently had the driver's window replaced after a break-in and it seems that during the repair the master switch suffered some damage while being removed. Short story is my rear passenger window will roll down from the master switch but not up, but will function normally from that rear passenger door's switch.

Shop tested switch and said "it has an open circuit" so I wanted to check in here before I buy a new Switch. Does the "open circuit" point specifically to either a raw wire as some have experienced or more towards the switch itself failing? Wasn't sure if that diagnosis is enough to go on to make a determination.

Also the window always worked fine, no intermittent action etc., prior to the shop removing it to replace the glass, so that's why I lean more towards the switch than the wires being exposed. I welcome your advice.

I'd take a look at the plug and see if any pins are missing or bent. There isn't any normal action involved in removing it that should result in those symptoms.
 
I got the Amazon part as a tester before I shell out for the OEM unit, but only one of the 4 buttons even worked on that pice of junk. Does anyone know if the 2009 GX470 master window switch is functionally compatible, enough for me to plug in and test? We have one in the driveway and I hadn't thought of this until now. I ask because many listings for the LX470 switch also says "GX470" but wasn't sure how accurate that is.
 
To confirm, yes I was able to use the GX master switch to plug in to the LX470 plug to test function. Worked perfectly, but of course cosmetically they are different and I didn't take time to see if the mountings matched in the bezel plate.
 
@CloudCity Did you end up fixing this with another OEM switch? I had tried this one from Switch Doctor. It didn't solve my issue of a parasitic draw and no auto up/down on the drivers door. But its good quality and felt similar to OEM. I don't think you'd know the difference long-term:
 
@CloudCity Did you end up fixing this with another OEM switch? I had tried this one from Switch Doctor. It didn't solve my issue of a parasitic draw and no auto up/down on the drivers door. But its good quality and felt similar to OEM. I don't think you'd know the difference long-term:
I ended up buying one from a parted out truck on eBay. The seller specializes in Toyota parts and often has them so if interested I can DM you his link.
I did swap out my worn out clip and plastic/wood “casing” so it all still matched and it works great. He doesn’t test but has a return policy if not doesn’t work so just plug in and check before you swap bezels etc.
if yours works great then congrats! The Amazon one I tried wasn’t Switch Dr and was garbage.
 
Isnt there a member 3d printing those?
 

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