Master Cylinder / Booster adjustment? Brakes still blah after Tundra Calipers (1 Viewer)

[Randy88FJ62]

How do I verify the distance between the master cylinder and the booster? I think it is one of the last things I need to check.

Brake Specs:
FJ62 front axle with IFS hubs and rebuilt Tundra Calipers (stainless lines at the calipers).
FZJ80 stock rear axle with oem stock rubber brake lines
Inline Adjustable LSPV (stock LSPV deleted).
T100 booster from the parts yard used
T100 master cylinder bought new (advics / aisin)

Years back I had TLC aluminum front calipers with the T100 booster and cylinder and the braking was good. Then I scrapped em out since I snapped a bleeder screw and the aluminum threads were toast even after trying to fix em. Ever since I've upgraded the brakes since then I am unhappy with the performance. I assumed that the tundra calipers up front and the rear 80 stock calipers would finally match the master cylinder bore and volume.

I did a quick bleed of the front after pulling the old calipers off and installing the tundra calipers. When I do this do I need to bleed the entire system again or just the front. (I did not bleed the back.)

I think I will replace the old rear lines since I'll probably bleed the system again. Currently the brakes are ok but cannot lock up the brakes from 15mph. The tires are 35" BFG KM3's E class and heavy!

 

[Randy88FJ62]

 

[OSS]

I didn't think it was possible to lock up 35s on a cruiser especially if the rig is heavy along with the wheels.
If you're also driving another (more modern) car, the brakes on the cruiser will always feel crappy in comparison even when they're working ok.
New pads and rotors take a while to bed it to get maximum braking power. I've noticed this. May not be your issue though.
If only the front calipers were changed, bubbles only entered the brake lines down near the front. Air wouldn't have traveled all the way up to the rear tee junction (normally) so only bleeding the fronts would be necessary.

 

[Skniper]

Nice looking stuff.

There is a depth gauge measuring device shown in the FSM that measures the depth of the master cyl in the back and allows you to set the length of the booster plunger to match, or be just a hair short IIRC. You don’t want the booster plunger to be pushing the master piston while at rest.

I made my own that worked decent...

 

[Randy88FJ62]

@OSS
Thanks for the response. The rotors and pads are oem used from a friend's Tundra so maybe I need to put a few miles on em.

@Skniper
I think I'll need to research this more and verify. It's the last point in the system that I don't know well.

 

[Godwin]

Check the push rod clearance with one of these

Power Brake Booster Tool

or make one of skniper's tools.

 

[Randy88FJ62]

@Skniper
Is your tool simply three bolts in a threaded plate?

 

[Skniper]

@Skniper
Is your tool simply three bolts in a threaded plate?

I drilled the plate to match the spacing I needed, used a nut on either side and locked them in place, epoxied nuts to one side. Use the free nuts to adjust/lock the screws in place.
The screws have to be exact same length.

I would’ve just bought one if I found it.