Master Bathroom Remodel...

[arandaflooring]

You might check to make sure you can put cement board over that radient floor and then tile. From my experience with these systems you generally float over the wire with thinset or slc, let it dry come in the next day and tile over that. Im just skimming this so i might have missed something just thought i would throw that out there. I probably missed something since there are so many of these out there.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Any idea what the current draw is for the electric type in floor radiant heat? I do know with our 10' ceilings in our MB that in floor heat would solve the problem of our c-c-cold bathroom! I sure wish I would have thought about that when we had the house built...before all the tile.

One thing to know just in case you don't already: Be careful with getting too much heat around the toilet as the wax seals can melt away. Or check out the new style non-wax seals specifically for in-floor heat systems.

The system I got will cover around 35-42 sq ft depending on how you space it out (3">3" or 3">1.5">3">1.5"). I went with 3". This system is drawing 4 amps. I'll assume in this calc I'm using the system 100% of the time.

1 Phase
Input Volts is 120AC
Amps is 4 amps
Watts = 120x4 = 480 watts
Power Factor is set at 70% (that's a number the vendor through out in the instructions)
Kilowatts = 120X4X.7/1000 = .336 kW

I calculate with my kWh cost from the ele company and heavy usage during the winter months my cost/mo. will be around $8.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Gabe, I have the wiring fully embedded in thinset. Looking at the MSDS sheet on the fiberrock from USG I did not see anything that would alarm me from using this underlayment.

 

[arandaflooring]

Awesome. My only concern was getting the wire too far away from the tile below thinking it would affect the heating properties. Again it sounds like you're doing your homework and im simply going off the "warmly yours" system which is the one i use most of the time. Let me know if i can be of any more assistance on the tile end since that is what i do for a living. Have fun, Gabe

 

[trainrech]

WRT to the GFCI. The thermostat for the floor heating system has built-in GFCI. With only a 3 amp draw (i had a slightly smaller area to work with) I wired it into the same circuit as the lights. I did not load the lights/outlets off of the thermostat GFCI, instead setting them up on their own GFCI protected circuit from one of the outlets.

 

[edog's 80]

Beautiful work. I am a couple years away from expanding our home and you have given me some great ideas for the MB, I will definitely be doing the radiant heat.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Trainrech,
Thanks for the info. I've got an outlet in mind that I'm going to run it to in the crawlspace. It's a circuit that only has one load to it right now.

edog's 80,
Thanks. Some of the ideas have come for those 'o's***' moments or 'now that's a great idea'. While doing this project I forced myself to browse through HD, Menards, Lowe's and look at some of the ideas and products that are out there. That and, DIY network and HGTV is great research as well.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Updates

It been a while since posting updates so here goes. (Took these shots awhile back.)

After getting all the wiring for the heated floor layed I covered the wires in thinset and put down the backerboard. Put down the next layer of thinset (polymer) for the tile then layed the tile. Went ahead and got good tile, 6 mil thick. I got the electricity hooked up and the floor is pretty warm.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Got an Ikea sink and cabinet in and the crappers set for some good morning coffee poopin.

The double faucet was a PITA!! Had to go to HD and piece the water lines together.



Next will be the shower. I'll started on the plumbing with the overhead outlet hooked up and placed. I'm using the Shark bites connectors and have the hose angled down so the water bleeds off. Need to double insulate in the attic so there's no chance of pipes freezing during those really cold days.