Master Bathroom Remodel...

[Cruiser Jimmy]

So I've been needing to remodel the master bath and while I've been house I thought I'd tackle it...along with putting a 45 back to original.

30+ year old house when I bought it and the decor never changed from 1976, I call it the bicentennial house. Smoker lived in it for 20+ years and when I finally had enough of the kitchen wallpaper I decided to taken it down. Taking down wallpaper requires shooting the walls with water. Well, once that happened 3/4 of all NC tobacco harvest started streaking down the wall...if that paints a picture.

Most of the house has been remodeled with the exception of the master-bath, kitchen and utility room.

Here's the plan...
1. Take down the wall that divides the crapper/shower and sink and open the area up.
2. Put in a double sink.
3. take out the shower pan and build a tile pan.
4. Put in a heated floor.
5. Repair the floor due to water damage.
6. Run RJ45/HDTV cable up the wall for placement on the other side. This will give me the ability to put a flat screen on the wall in the bedroom and not have cords running up the wall.

Here's the plan.

Sink/vanity.

Crapper and shower area.



Any tips tricks or suggestion are more than welcome.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Some more pics.

Door Frame.

Junction box hell. Needed to extent the wiring.

Relocating the duct work from former location and main floor water damage.

 

[agomez]

you should 86 the hall closet and make it part of the MB....where are you planning to put the towels and plunger?

 

[SunTzuMD]

I'm in the process of buying a pre-centennial house (1975). Luckily the kitchen has been remodeled, but I too will need to redo the masterbath. Interested to follow along and see how it goes. Love the idea of a heated floor.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

I seriously considered 86'ing the closet and being a man I thought value added if I installed a corner jacuzzi tub. But of the women I spoke to about the remodel they all said keep the closet for linen and towels. For the MB towels I plan on getting an Ikea closet. If I really want to enjoy a warm soak then I can get a Jacuzzi on the back porch.

 

[fsusteve]

I'd do shelves for the towels, forget the tub and do a huge walk in shower with multiple shower heads.

 

[agomez]

if the hall closet is big enough you could do built in shelves off the shower end for all your soaps and a small linen closet next to the toilet and toss the ikea and still have enough room for the hall closet...find a good tile guy and do a walk in shower with a bench built in...Steve has the right idea...good luck.

 

[calstyl2]

I'd do shelves for the towels, forget the tub and do a huge walk in shower with multiple shower heads.

This, I have it and love it...

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Well apparently the junction boxes INSIDE a closed wall is not code. The Junction boxes have to be accessible. Therefore I'm putting the boxes in the ceiling. I'm going to have it inspected before I put the walls up.

I'm pausing to consider the walk-in shower with multiple heads....The bathroom box space is 7' X 10.5'. The closet is 2.5'X2.75' within that box space...if that gives you a better understanding.

 

[fsusteve]

yeah, nix-a on junction boxes, you don't want your house to look like a bonfire. Google the large showers, I've seen some really neat ones here with two open ends and a glass wall with two or three heads, it's really not hard to plumb or do. A shower pan by a plumber isn't that much and it'll be right, the rest you could figure out.

 

[agomez]

I would rewire the new outlets and switches back to the main panel and get rid of the junction boxes...

 

[splitshot]

If you are feeling froggy and really want to make the Mrs happy, might give slate some consideration. Alot easier than tile imo, and fun to build.

 

[waterholewilly]

i love the slate i have done most of my house in ungauged slate. did you use a notched trowel to place it

 

[splitshot]

i love the slate i have done most of my house in ungauged slate. did you use a notched trowel to place it

Yep, with Omni-Grip on Permabase concrete board.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Updates:
Just got back from NC for family Christmas with aunt and cousins. Dysfunction set in on Christmas day during dinner and everyone had an uncomfortable silence and started to think of a different subject to talk about. Dont'cha love those Christmas'!!


Thanks for the suggestions on the multi-shower heads. I was really on the fence about the issue but decided against it. I talked with some builders and they said that multi-heads work fine if the space is big where the splash/spray factor is not going to be an issue and confined to the shower area. Even with the closet out, the space would be questionable. I was going for the walk-in with no door effect, so that cleaning is a little easier.

I like the slate stone Splitspot. I don't know where you live in AZ (Flag or PHX) but did you consider the rain effect for the shower? If your in Flag then running the plumbing up into the ceiling you would have to consider the freeze factor in the winter. Options?

Finally got the substrate, ducting, electrical and sink plumbing finished. Rewired so the junction boxes are up in the attic and moved the crapper light/blower switch over so it's right next to the shower and crapper area. Prior area where it was would have divided the wall due to the light being right in the middle.

Upgraded the main lighting switch to a motion sensor switch from Pass & Seymour. (Menards: 'bout $25) Incandescent lighting only. Depending on how fast and where you walk into the room the switch has a > 1 sec delay or a < 1 sec delay. We'll see how I like it. I know there are florescent switches that you can get from Grainger.
Upgraded the exhaust fan to a time delay switch from Menard also (bout $25 also). 1,5,10,20,30,60 minute delays. This is a really nice feature.

Relocated the toilet light and exhaust fan. Freed on the wall for whatever.

Motion Sensor Light Switch.

Fan time delay.

 

[romegadave]

I worked on a walk in shower over Christmas. We didn't go with a glass door but opted for just having a shower curtain. Haven't moved in yet but hates trying to clean glass shower doors and the curtains are cheap to throw away.

 

[Joe_E]

Sweet remodel job.
My biggest complaint with our master bath is the heat. We got talked into a toe kick under the vanity.
It needs something different. I'm thinking radiant floor heat.

 

[trainrech]

Just finished turning an 9' x 11' area with 3 closets and a 1/2 bath into a single closet and full bath. 36 x 60 shower with 2 showers/3 heads. Heated tile floor and duct work comes out through the kick plate on the cabinet. The house is 86 years old and I demolished down to studs and joists before coming back out. Shower base and walls are from Onyx Collection which, other than being very heavy, cuts like butter and installs very easily.

We will be upgrading to a 2nd water heater as the single 50 is gone pretty quickly with two showers running.

I recommend the floor heating system. Combine that with an overhead light/vent/heater and you'll be plenty warm.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Updates:
Finally got all the green board back up on the walls, taped and sanded down and it's ready for the primer coat. Wow, i hate sanding especially in an area that I'm living in. Sanding the ceiling was s***ty. I'm hoping to got the same texture on the ceiling where I took out the wall. Going to do some test methods before I do it so that I can see how it turns out. If I can't get it close then I'm going to re-texture the entire ceiling.

I'm now working on the flooring and the radiant heat. Needed to do some leveling of the floor before I put the sub-floor down.

I did a lot of research on the types of heated flooring systems that are on the market. Home Depot has one vendor that has two types of heating for floors. A system that you customize based on the area and another system that tucks up under the flooring in between the joyces, it's exactly 16" wide and comes in predetermined lengths. Menards has a vendor EASYHEAT with a product called Warm Tiles. Essential it's the same product but since there was an open box in Menards I read the instructions for all the details. This helped out because I understood what the flooring height needed to be.
EasyHeat comes in a variety of lengths at either 120V or 240V. The larger area you need the more voltage will require. Planning out is pretty easy with the instructions. Based on the spacing you desire and the traffic area with determine the amount of line you will need. Also, a GFCI is required for the system.

The manufacture calls for a minimum of 3/4" in between the finished surface and the wiring. What I'm doing is below.

Here's the finished layout.

As all project we get into sometimes there's sweat, tears and blood. The metal strapping at each end of the system got me right at the finger tip. Ouch!!

Next I'm putting down the scratch coat of mortar then laying down the backerboard right over the mortar. Then 1/4"X1/4"X1/4" trowel mortar base. Then the finished tile.

 

[spressomon]

Updates:
Finally got all the green board back up on the walls, taped and sanded down and it's ready for the primer coat. Wow, i hate sanding especially in an area that I'm living in. Sanding the ceiling was s***ty. I'm hoping to got the same texture on the ceiling where I took out the wall. Going to do some test methods before I do it so that I can see how it turns out. If I can't get it close then I'm going to re-texture the entire ceiling.

I'm now working on the flooring and the radiant heat. Needed to do some leveling of the floor before I put the sub-floor down.
View attachment 484209
I did a lot of research on the types of heated flooring systems that are on the market. Home Depot has one vendor that has two types of heating for floors. A system that you customize based on the area and another system that tucks up under the flooring in between the joyces, it's exactly 16" wide and comes in predetermined lengths. Menards has a vendor EASYHEAT with a product called Warm Tiles. Essential it's the same product but since there was an open box in Menards I read the instructions for all the details. This helped out because I understood what the flooring height needed to be.
EasyHeat comes in a variety of lengths at either 120V or 240V. The larger area you need the more voltage will require. Planning out is pretty easy with the instructions. Based on the spacing you desire and the traffic area with determine the amount of line you will need. Also, a GFCI is required for the system.

The manufacture calls for a minimum of 3/4" in between the finished surface and the wiring. What I'm doing is below.
View attachment 484211
Here's the finished layout.
View attachment 484210
As all project we get into sometimes there's sweat, tears and blood. The metal strapping at each end of the system got me right at the finger tip. Ouch!!

Next I'm putting down the scratch coat of mortar then laying down the backerboard right over the mortar. Then 1/4"X1/4"X1/4" trowel mortar base. Then the finished tile.

Any idea what the current draw is for the electric type in floor radiant heat? I do know with our 10' ceilings in our MB that in floor heat would solve the problem of our c-c-cold bathroom! I sure wish I would have thought about that when we had the house built...before all the tile.

One thing to know just in case you don't already: Be careful with getting too much heat around the toilet as the wax seals can melt away. Or check out the new style non-wax seals specifically for in-floor heat systems.