Massive ticking (1 Viewer)

[fahedsharif]

I recently finished replacing the i/e manifold gasket and have run into another problem. I have a very annoying ticking sound when under load. I've been reading around and apparently it is the j-pipe? I still have the smog hooked up and that may be the issue? If anyone can help I would appreciate it!

 

[augirthedude]

exhaust leak

 

[2mbb]

If you take a piece of hose or tubing and place one end at/in your ear you can snoop around with the other end to locate the leak. I like to use the harder plastic tubing (nylon) for this because it is a bit stiffer and doesn't melt if it touches hot exhaust piping. Even if you can't hear the ticking at idle, this type of "stethoscope" should help isolate where the leak is. I actually have a mechanic's stethoscope, where I replace the solid metal probe with a piece of plastic tubing.

The J-pipe can leak at either end--where it connects into the EGR cooler using a compression fitting or where it bolts onto the exhaust manifold. This could also be the exhaust manifold to down pipe connection, or something else.

Good luck.

 

[fahedsharif]

I figured it was either the down pipe or the j pipe. I was going to run some seafoam through the truck to see a leak before I ordered any gaskets. Thanks for the advice, helped tremendously!

 

[Spike Strip]

Very soon after my engine rebuild I started getting that 'ticking' sound. I had used a cheap aftermarket J-pipe gasket and is blew out very quickly, but was hard to find becasue it has blown towards the block. Kinda a big PITA to replace after the fact.

If you replace, use the OE Toyota gasket. I also used some permatex high-temp RTV, per the suggestion of MAFs engine builder, and it has held up just fine. Also, the SOR SS J pipe replacement is worth it.

http://www.sor.com/cat047.sor

 

[Slow Left]

To replace the gasket between the exhaust manifold and j-pipe, it is possible to remove the j-pipe without pulling the manifolds:
1) remove the shield under the steering rod on the driver side frame rail (3 12mm head bolts - can access them from the outside under the wheel well or the back two from underneath the truck
2) remove the two bolts 90119-10047 (14mm heads) that hold the EGR cooler to the side of the engine block
3) loosen the nut on the pipe at the EGR cooler (a plumbers wrench works well here) - might not even need to loosen/remove this nut in order to replace that gasket...you could try skipping this step and moving to step 4
4) remove the two nuts that hold the j-pipe to the bottom of the exhaust manifold
5) remove pipe
6) check that the face of the flange that mates to the exhaust manifold isn't warped
7) reinstall with new gasket, nuts and Permatex Copper antisieze on all the cleaned threads

 

[Spike Strip]

Getting that large nut (25601B, above pic) loosened, in such a tight area, made me invent a whole new dictionary of blue words. I finally went to harbor F and bought a cheap 36mm open end wrench and cut it in half. A section of 2x4 and a dead blow hammer on the wrench stub did the trick.

If you just try and 'bend' the J-pipe down, to clear the exh mani studs, you risk creating leaks at the egr cooler end, plus, it's hell to try and push it back onto the studs. That's how I eneded up with the SOR SS pipe.

 

[Slow Left]

Getting that large nut (25601B, above pic) loosened, in such a tight area, made me invent a whole new dictionary of blue words. I finally went to harbor F and bought a cheap 36mm open end wrench and cut it in half. A section of 2x4 and a dead blow hammer on the wrench stub did the trick.

Yeah, forgot to suggest that he soak those nuts (25601B and 90179-08128) 2x a day for a couple days with PB Blaster penetrating lubricant before attempting removal...

I went with a plumber's wrench on 25601B because it gave me much more leeway in getting the right angle in such a tight space while still getting a good grip and not slipping/stripping the nut...also, once you remove the 2 14mm bolts 90119-10047 that hold the EGR cooler to the engine block, you gain some more wiggle room...

 

[Slow Left]

If you just try and 'bend' the J-pipe down, to clear the exh mani studs, you risk creating leaks at the egr cooler end, plus, it's hell to try and push it back onto the studs. That's how I eneded up with the SOR SS pipe.

Did you remove the two 14 mm bolts 90119-10047 that fasten the EGR cooler to the side of the engine? If you do this, then once you unfasten the j-pipe at the exhaust manifolds studs, the EGR cooler is held on solely by that flexible pipe that runs between the EGR Cooler and EGR Valve...

I could see where trying to bend the j-pipe down once those two nuts at the exhaust manifold are removed, but with the EGR Cooler still fastened to the engine block, how that would likely bend the j-pipe.

Yeah, by all means, I'd go with the stainless steele j-pipe and new hardware for sure, if you can afford it. I couldn't, so I had to be strategic about the whole thing...and luckily the face of the j-pipe that mates to the bottom of the exhaust manifold wasn't warped...because I understand they warp rather easily (another argument for being prepared and getting that stainless steele j-pipe new if it fits your budget).

And the bathes in PB Blaster should help you avoid damaging those studs on the exhaust manifold (to which the j-pipe nuts fasten), because I would not want to have to try and pull and replace those with the manifolds still on the engine...that would be difficult, based on my recent experience replacing them...

 

[Slow Left]

...made me invent a whole new dictionary of blue words.

I wouldn't mind a copy of that sometime (if you are considering publishing)...I have used up all mine on that ridiculous bolt on the back of the PS pump that holds the PS pump to the PS Pump bracket...

 

[Output Shaft]

Cap and Trade

 

[gregnash]

Yup, first pic is correct. Main problem that I ran into was that one of the bolts was busted off short so I cannot adequately tighten it down with the gasket on.

 

[Output Shaft]

...problem that I ran into was that one of the bolts was busted off short so I cannot adequately tighten it down with the gasket on.

That is exactly what led to the pics above... shearing off the MOFO stud on the manifold horn. Seems like everyone starts at the original post of this thread (exhaust leak) and given enough time, and disgust, they end up with some sort of version of the pictures posted. The studs fatigue over time with the heat cycles & are easy to twist off with anything more than about 12 Ft-lb.

So the fix was: Remove the manifold, have it shaved flat as a unit, extract the broken stud on the horn & replace both studs with new ones. (Toyota PN: 92112-60818). Then send Jim C a msg to ship you one of his nice block off plates.

 

[gregnash]

Yeah that is what I will end up having to do, already have Jim's plate now just need to get the bastard thing off, shaved and new gaskets all around. For me that is going to have to wait until next spring to do when I have available time (and warmth) unless I can use my buddies barn for a few days.

 

[Spike Strip]

I wouldn't mind a copy of that sometime (if you are considering publishing)...I have used up all mine on that ridiculous bolt on the back of the PS pump that holds the PS pump to the PS Pump bracket...

Ha! You'd blush Freeborn Red ...