Massive leak at rear ac above muffler (1 Viewer)

[philip g]

Hi

My fzj80 ac isn’t working. I put some dye in it expecting/hoping that the condenser has taken a rock. No such luck. I tracked it down to a fitting above the muffler, but I can’t see how it comes apart.

Has anyone happened to pull it apart and change out the o-ring, or whatever is causing it to leak, or has anyone just capped off the rear ac? That might be easiest

 

[jfz80]

Even with the 1fz it might be worth posting in the diesel section as well. Only cause more of those markets got the rear a/c. Not a whole lot of folks with that option stateside.

I can’t recall. Is it toydiy.com that has exploded parts diagrams? Maybe someone can confirm.

 

[Irish Reiver]

It sounds like the junctions where the high pressure and low pressure lines enter and exit the evaporator. Each of the connections are clamped with an M6 bolt (i think). Grab some new O-rings and see if it holds a vacuum. Hopefully its not the evaporator.

 

[philip g]

It sounds like the junctions where the high pressure and low pressure lines enter and exit the evaporator. Each of the connections are clamped with an M6 bolt (i think). Grab some new O-rings and see if it holds a vacuum. Hopefully its not the evaporator.

With the muffler there I can’t even see where the bolts are. I’ll try get a pic tomorrow. It doesn’t quite look like a normal fitting like I’m used to. The bolts might go through from the fender side somehow.

The diesel idea is a good one. Naturally the one place I don’t want it to leak it leaks

 

[Gerry McGerry]

I've gotta install some rear AC lines this week, I'll get some photos. I've never been under a gas 80, are you saying the leak is after the rear axle where the refrigerant lines pass thru' to the cab?

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Lucky, this bit was already installed. The connection prior to this is above the lower control arm chassis mount. Drop the exhaust and try the O-rings like Irish Reiver said first, you can see the two bolts in the photo. If something is busted, you're not gonna remove these rearmost lines without lifting the body 2 inches, there's no way around it.

 

[Irish Reiver]

It sounds like the junctions where the high pressure and low pressure lines enter and exit the evaporator. Each of the connections are clamped with an M6 bolt (i think). Grab some new O-rings and see if it holds a vacuum. Hopefully its not the evaporator.

When I read your initial post I read "muffler" and heard "downpipe". Never seen a LC here in the US with rear AC. That said the principle are likely no different -same connections, same O-rings, same process to test the system.

 

[philip g]

I've gotta install some rear AC lines this week, I'll get some photos. I've never been under a gas 80, are you saying the leak is after the rear axle where the refrigerant lines pass thru' to the cab?

Yes, at the far rear right side of the vehicle

 

[philip g]

You guys are right there are two 10mm bolts holding the fittings like the firewall. There was so much crud in the way I couldn’t see it. The big oring was easy to find but the small is kind of an odd size. Trying to evacuate it now to see if it will hold a vacuum on a slightly too large oring

 

[philip g]

Well great. It’s not the oring leaking it’s a hole in the liquid line. Maybe I can disconnect the lines where there’s a joint and just cap them off.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Maybe I can disconnect the lines where there’s a joint and just cap them off.

Certainly can, mine has had the fridge lines welded shut. Something like these would be a better a option I think.

Adapters - A/C Block Off Fittings - AP Air Inc

Agricultural Air Conditioning, Air Conditioning Parts and Supplies, Condensers, Evaporator, Radiator, Blower, Switches

www.apairinc.com

 

[philip g]

Certainly can, mine has had the fridge lines welded shut. Something like these would be a better a option I think.

Adapters - A/C Block Off Fittings - AP Air Inc

Agricultural Air Conditioning, Air Conditioning Parts and Supplies, Condensers, Evaporator, Radiator, Blower, Switches

www.apairinc.com

those would work nice, I ordered a set of block off fittings like people use on the 100 series. I assumed it would be easier until I can track down a new line or have a flexible line made locally, if I decide to repair it correctly.