Mark's Adapter Setup and Adjusment (1 Viewer)

Elbert

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parts in play. 5.7 Vortec, Marks bellhousing adapter, stock GM flywheel, centerforce clutch and pressure plate, toyota H55 5 speed manual transmission, 1986 FJ60, stock transfer case.

Issue...getting the marks adapter setup and adjusted properly. I don't have my paper copy of the instructions (i asked AA to email them to me) from our original install..anyway. I recall that there is a large nut and locking tab or ring and you have to setup the throw out bearing correctly. I'm also using FJ60 clutch arm, FJ60 slave with adjustable rod.

Is there any magic to the Mark's setup from those who have done this before? We kind of flew by the seat of our pants when we did the engine swap and so here we are.

Issue that led me to this..is that I starting having problems with appears to be clutch slipping... going back in and in process of tear down of the marks adatper to see if we can dtermine the issue. Got new clutch and pressure plate and new throwout bearing... want to make sure we get the adjutment of the bellhousing adapter right or at least we well verify that we were in the ballpark.

Truck has run fine for some time... only recently exhibited issues with clutch slippage. And this only became apparent after another shop adjusted the clutch pedal engagemet? Anyway I want to get it right as its a big pain in the @$$ to pull trans and everything to go back in there.
 

Elbert

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when throw-out bearing does not release fully here is what you get. After adjustments by "shop"....a few weeks later I start having issues with what I thought was the clutch slipping. Apopears not to the be the case...rather the throw-out bearing not fully releasing. Flywheel side of clutch looks good. Replacing clutch, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing...
Photo024.jpg
 
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Elbert

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Well I think we had the ajustment right to start with and we will go back with it the same way. ....FYI
The "shop" will not be working on this again.
 
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I just did one this week but have not started it to test it out. The instructions say to measure the depth from clutch fingers to back of engine block, I got 4 1/4 inches. Then you are supposed to adjust the throw out bearing face to front face of mark's adapter,(toward engine) then subtract 10mm (3/8"). Then use the spanner wrench supplied to lock the carrier into place. Hope this helps
 

Elbert

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thanks for the notes, I was looking for my "instructions". We had it setup right to start with when we did the engine swap, but then it was changed when the "shop" decided to adjust the pedal travel, which in turn did not allow the throw out bearing to fully release. I do recall having some insturctions that I thnk were mostly in metric measurements. If you have those post up or email over. I was thinking they were two or three pages long. I asked AA for a copy but they seem unable to find them.

I also remember not being a big fan of the provided instructions. So you measure the distance from clutch fingers to back of engine block, then adjust throw out bearing moving it towards the rear of the engine, then subtract 10mm?

What we found is (most liekely in any setup)....that the clutch has to engage, the pressure plate has to operate and the throw-out bearing has to engage properly and fully disengage properly. The end result of that is that the clutch will engage with the clutch pedal just an inch or two from the fully depressed state (on the floor), which is normal from everything I've read on a marks setup.

I'm of the opinion that you basically have to set one of these things using your best judgement and experience. I do have a pdf file that AA sent that looks like its from the Mark's Adapter web site.. with the various instructions on it for different engines. I would post it up , (I will try) but I think the size of hte file will not work. So if the attachement works that may benefit others.
 

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you are correct in the relay back of the instructions. i have not run the cruiser that I have been working on. So clutch adjustment will be in order. Yes its measured in mm. but I measured 4 1/4 " and its says to go with a unit of measurement, minus 10mm (3/8"). I feel this gave too much room to get theTO to engage. but all I have to do to adjust is to pull the dust cover and adjust it by hand.
 
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Elbert, Kitb,

Dumb question. Is there a way to bypass fingers to back of the engine measurement? I also did not have instrcutions since I bought the adapter used and mated tranny/tc/etc to the motor.

Also, what length slave pushrod are you all using?

I have the 5.3L Vortec/H55 combo on my '83 fj60.
 

Elbert

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I ended up hauling the truck over to ACC in Atlanta, where they discvored that I was missing the shims on teh clutch fork... you better make sure you have these..or you will have teh same problems. I think marks calls them bearing blocks. Anyway as noted from teh old post above, I never had teh full set of nice pictures and instructions like I posted above. So in the end I had to order the blocks from aa, and ACC installed them and setup the adapter back up. I don't know if the 5.3 is the same as teh 5.7 i have.

I'm using the Toyota clutch slave and I believe we ended up using an adjustable slave rod where we could adjust the end. I belive that slave rod came from one of the older FJ60 slave cylinders. As I recall it was trial and error. Use teh right slave for yyour year model... I think as i recal the 86 and 87 don't have an external spring on teh slave , while I think the older model slaves do.

Hope that helps you a little bit.
 

Elbert

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make sure you understand the arangemetn of teh shims I referenced above...that was my entire problem...of course when you don't get teh shims in the box...its makes it a challenge to figure that out when the instructions I initally had were incomplete. ACC guys fixed me up. I don't know the answer to your question about another way to make any measurements. We initally ended up settign the adatper up by the seat of our pants and did not learn of the missing shims for some time. I don't know the differences between the 5.3 and 5.7 to let you know what if any alternate things you might could do.
 
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make sure you understand the arangemetn of teh shims I referenced above...that was my entire problem...of course when you don't get teh shims in the box...its makes it a challenge to figure that out when the instructions I initally had were incomplete. ACC guys fixed me up. I don't know the answer to your question about another way to make any measurements. We initally ended up settign the adatper up by the seat of our pants and did not learn of the missing shims for some time. I don't know the differences between the 5.3 and 5.7 to let you know what if any alternate things you might could do.
Here are the part #'s and cost (as of Jan. 2014) from Mark's Offroad

We have the bearing blocks and M4 counter sunk screws in stock
Bearing block MFC884 - $8.73 AUD each
M4 screw CSK-M4-10 -$0.55 AUD each
 

Elbert

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I wanted to update this.... I know some time has passed...but I'm not sure of a permanent fix to this issue. Certainly the missing shims on the clutch fork was my mistake....but I'm not confident of the setup of the locking collar over time. Apparently there continues to be people who still have problems with the throw-out bearing...not what is not fure sure is ..."what is causing this problem"...and is there a permanent fix.
 

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