Manual Boost Controller
- Thread starter Gold Boy
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
On the low pressures we run on diesels is it worth while? 
LOL Hope you are not thinking of winding up the boost and spooling up to dump the clutch.
LOL Hope you are not thinking of winding up the boost and spooling up to dump the clutch. 
- Thread starter
- #3
On the low pressures we run on diesels is it worth while?
BBD...
i don't know if it's worth while. can't dump the clutch it is an auto
anyway 
How about the contraption that was originally Wayne's design that I put into Nick's BJ74, Simon? Probably less than $5 in parts from Rona.
If you really want an adjustable factory unit, I can get you one from a ricer shop in Port Kells for around $50. Let me know if you want one thrown in the mail for you.
If you really want an adjustable factory unit, I can get you one from a ricer shop in Port Kells for around $50. Let me know if you want one thrown in the mail for you.
oh yer, thanks for reminding me Stone about waynes "rona special" and also for your kind offer.
is the ricer mbc any better?
No worries...I don't know about the ricer model, I've never tried it. Maybe you could buy one, install it, and do a writeup?
You do have a boost gauge and pyrometer hooked up, right? Take it up to 12psi max boost...you'll definitely feel a difference.
BBD...
i don't know if it's worth while. can't dump the clutch it is an auto
LOL If you are going ricer you will need a big stallie
seeing its an auto..;p Then a big blow off valve. The local boys run them on the ricers and commodores but they are mostly running 20 to 35 lb boost.
I don't really see the benefit running one under 8/12 lb if the turbo is matched. What are you really up to. 
BBD he is trying to bring it up from the 6-8 psi that is stock to 12 psi for a bit better performance. Also it will keep the egts cooler when driving in these mountains.
I built a boost controller out of 1/8 brass tee(female) a plug for one end with ball bearing and a spring. The other ends gots a barb fitting for the skinny hose.
My idea is to either bring the cap in or out to get the range, also could use small washers to add spring pressure, or cut the spring to get it weaker.
Its all going to be an experiment to get right. But should work IMOP.
But for 50 bucks it will be a little simplier. Depends on what you like. The 50 buck one will have nice adjustement and mostl likely will click from spot to spot while adjusting. I think anyhow.
I built a boost controller out of 1/8 brass tee(female) a plug for one end with ball bearing and a spring. The other ends gots a barb fitting for the skinny hose.
My idea is to either bring the cap in or out to get the range, also could use small washers to add spring pressure, or cut the spring to get it weaker.
Its all going to be an experiment to get right. But should work IMOP.
But for 50 bucks it will be a little simplier. Depends on what you like. The 50 buck one will have nice adjustement and mostl likely will click from spot to spot while adjusting. I think anyhow.
- Thread starter
- #9
Last edited:
Home deopt special. Tuned for 12PSI on my 12H-T Cost me under $5
- Thread starter
- #11
Home deopt special. Tuned for 12PSI on my 12H-T Cost me under $5
thanks for posting that pic Brad. what do you call that part that you used in your "home deopt special"?
i likey the simple install
I aquired all the brass you see, an assortment of springs and a steel ball for the inside.
Basically it's a T with two barbed ends and a plug. you insert the ball and then the spring and adj tension with the plug or trimming the spring or both. The one barb attaches to the stock hose and you add a short peice of hose to the other side.
Jump in your truck and tune away until you get the desired boost on your gauge.
As for the 'duke... This weekends adventures...needed a tug by a big 4x4 tractor. It wasn't pretty.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/bjtaylor/stucktaylor018_edited-1.jpg
Basically it's a T with two barbed ends and a plug. you insert the ball and then the spring and adj tension with the plug or trimming the spring or both. The one barb attaches to the stock hose and you add a short peice of hose to the other side.
Jump in your truck and tune away until you get the desired boost on your gauge.
As for the 'duke... This weekends adventures...needed a tug by a big 4x4 tractor. It wasn't pretty.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v511/bjtaylor/stucktaylor018_edited-1.jpg
i could only get 9 PSI shimming my wastegate, and that's not nearly enough, so on went the manual boost controler. It works great.
- Thread starter
- #15
Cheers, he will certainly notice the difference going from 6,8lb to 10,12 lbs boost for sure. I am not familiar with the 13BT but it may handle a bit more boost still.The 12HT's seem to handle 14 lb ok .My feeling on the EGTs is that amount boost does not effect the EGTs on the diesel only how much fuel that goes into the combustion chamber effects the heat of the exhaust gas. I think a controller on the dash would be more convenient to wind up and down, more convenient than getting in and out especially when the weather is crappy. My T3 runs to 10 lb and will spike at 12 flat out in in 1st or 2nd gear so with the 2H it is not wise to push any more without a decent intercooler. cheers
ummm, if you have it set to what you want then why do you need to adjust from the cab? or do you mean the intial setting of the dialer?
the egts are affected because of the extra air being pumped in, this is especially true if you are driving a 2LT or 2LTE.
the 13BT can handle 14 lbs boost with no problems...BTDT...
cheers
the egts are affected because of the extra air being pumped in, this is especially true if you are driving a 2LT or 2LTE.
the 13BT can handle 14 lbs boost with no problems...BTDT...
cheers
The adjustment of the boost control will let you run at the minimum the controller is set at [as stated 6lb] and then let you wind it to 14 lb [as you say] when desired. I looked at this with my T3 but it was too expensive to change the controller to a lower set one from a T3 so I could run at lower pressure then boost to 12 or 14 lb for short bursts. The turbo shop I spoke to say the EGTs are a direct result of more fuel being burnt not the boost on the diesels at these low pressures, just quoting what I was told.cheers
nrmal driving will give you about 6 lbs of boost anyway and when yo need the extra boost just put your foot down... i don't understand why one would need to adjust all the time...
i guess i am having a mind fart here...
it is true, the less boost the higher the egts due to the amount of fuel vs air being burnt..
i guess i am having a mind fart here...
it is true, the less boost the higher the egts due to the amount of fuel vs air being burnt..
The engine might be happy, but the OEM little CT-26 bushing turbo might not be so happy after a little while...