Manifold turbo gasket? Yay or nay?

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I have a Garrett 2052 that bolts to a custom machined adapter (supplied by Diesel42) that bolts up to a 13bt manifold.

The gasket between the adapter and the manifold has blown out for the second time in less than 3000 miles.
The 1st one was by Mr. Gasket, the second was a 3 layer gasket (a metal layer sandwiched between 2 layers of felt). It came from Summit racing and I was sure it would never fail :confused:
Oh how I was wrong!
All the bolts holding everything down were nice and tight.


What to do now?
Any suggestions on a 'better' gasket material?
Ive read on other forums people using no gasket at all, instead resurfacing the manifold and using wheel bearing grease between the two surfaces. Supposedly this creates a steel like bond once is heated up??

Any thoughts on any of this?
 

BreckenridgeCruiser

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Diesel42 and I designed a kit base on his adapter, the GT2052 and our oil feed and return parts (plus some other goodies). I used regular gasket material and had the same issue. Mine was due to movement and pressure from the non-flexing exhaust. I have since replaced it with a flex pipe under the right side floorboard and put in custom cut copper gaskets with no issue. We are going to be starting to sell the complete kit (with the copper Gaskets) in about a month. In the short term, PM or email me (email is better) and I can send you out some 4" by 4" copper sheets you can drill and cut for your gaskets.
 
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What thickness copper and where can I buy a sheet from?

I figured there would be more input on this thread seeing as there is so much custom stuff out there :meh:
 

iron_giant

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To add a little, most exhaust gasket failures occur from movement in the joint. Whether it's differences in expansion, literal shifting, or prolonged stresses on one side of a joint (ie. turbo hanging off a manifold with no support), gaskets are not generally designed to withstand lateral shifting as it just tears the gasket material. The kit Breckenridge is putting together sounds like a good solution as it isolates the manifold and turbo from the rest of the exhaust allowing any movement to happen in the flex joint. Make sure the turbo is well supported and your copper gasket should work nicely. Another method as mentioned is to have both surfaces machined and run no gasket at all. Though I think the effectiveness of this method depends on the materials of the manifold and the turbo, running no gasket on machined surfaces us most desireable.

David
 
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I've been using a Remflex since I upgraded to a turbo.
No problems so far. They claim no need to retouque and since the first retourque a few hours after install there has been none more necessary when I re checked.
Happy so far.
Aaron
 
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I've been using a Remflex since I upgraded to a turbo.
No problems so far. They claim no need to retouque and since the first retourque a few hours after install there has been none more necessary when I re checked.
Happy so far.
Aaron

Ive been reading about their stuff, sounds impressive.
What was the charge for them to cut out your gasket?

David, thanks for the input. After getting in there, it turned out a couple of the bolts werent as tight as I had originally thought, this would have caused some of the exhaust gas to leak and subsequently blow out the gasket.

cruiser_guy I thought about not bothering with a gasket, but for some reason my brain tells me there should be one in there. This is my last attempt, if it blows out again, im going to go gasketless!
 
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2 machined surfaces shouldnt need a gasket. I have no gasket and have been running like that for 3 years with no problems. I installed diesel42's kit on a truck last year and chose not to use the gasket - works like a charm. If you use a gasket there is a chance it will fail - what will fail if you use none?

Regards
 
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2 machined surfaces shouldnt need a gasket. I have no gasket and have been running like that for 3 years with no problems. I installed diesel42's kit on a truck last year and chose not to use the gasket - works like a charm. If you use a gasket there is a chance it will fail - what will fail if you use none?

Regards

True that, two machined and flat surfaces shouldnt need gasket but theres is always chance of them rusting together if for some reason moisture gets there...
 
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We do alot of water crossings here when we are playing, I can't imagine most people driving through as deep a water hole as us quite often - although I am sure it happens in many places. I have had mine apart twice and there is no sign of rust.
 
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Hey Dan, interesting topic. I have always included the Mr.Gasket gaskets with the adapters i provide for the turbos. According to Napa it is a high heat resistive exhaust manifold material. But a couple of guys have reported blow outs. Ishobie has purchased two of my kits and not used the gaskets and reported perfect performance. I am interested in the copper your researching. Let us know how it works.
 
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Manifolds to turbos without gaskets ( Like the Volvo ones folks use) are the same cast iron / metal comp .. Manifold - turbo ( hard way after)

On Volvos with a replacement upgrade water cool / or the other upgrade , because the cast metal was a different comp .. So with the updated a sealing ring was issued and newer spring washer nuts for the studs.

Another repair for sealing is to get a wire gauge of 14/ 12 and anneal it soft , makes a nice tight seal after a few , cold re-torques.


VT
 

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