Manifold leaks - repairing - Skool me

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Walked with the Dinosaurs
Aug 30, 2004
I have and will continue to do searches but would like any comments, experience, things to look for, best options for removing and having both mainfolds surfaced and then reinstalling them.

Anything would be useful, including a sticky on manifold leaks and solutions.

Skool me.
I have and will continue to do searches but would like any comments, experience, things to look for, best options for removing and having both mainfolds surfaced and then reinstalling them.

Anything would be useful, including a sticky on manifold leaks and solutions.

Skool me.

Looks like you have it under control. Pretty straightforward. Remove the carb, mark the vacuum lines real well, take pictures. Take manifolds off & have resurfaced.
You may or may not snap off the collecter bolts. The actual manifold bolts/studs will probally be fine with PB Blaster. Some folks use 2 gaskets on the manifold not just one. Clean the threads up good & chinch down tight. Go thru several heat/cool cycles & recheck the bolts./studs. You should be good to go.

HTH John
I'm putting my manifolds back on tonight after replacing the HG. I have done a lot of searching on this subject. I had the oem manifold gasket installed behind the manifolds yesterday. After tightening everything up I had a tiny gap that I could put a very thin (don't remember the size) feeler gauge between the manifold and gasket at the top of the one exhaust bank on the manifold. I don't need the 60 to have the annoying tick when all back together. After doing some research, I decided to order up two FEL-PRO MS22813 gaskets and stack them behind the manifold. After searching, I found that gurus like Mark W. and Jim C. recommend the FEL-PRO over the OEM. I have the manifold seperated from the head and already hooked up the EGR J pipe and main exhaust so I didn't want to have to pull it all apart again. I think that the two gaskets will close it up. I even seperated the intake and exhaust manifolds and replaced the gaskets between them when they were off. The isolator plate and butterfly valve were in good shape. I checked the manifolds when they were off but I guess I must have missed something. I even bolted them together loosely and then bolted them to a parts head on the bench before tightening the bolts that hold the two together. Intake was cracked and you couldn't tell until I media blasted the intake. It was a hairline crack, very thin. My brother welded that up and hopefully everything will go together tonight. It's always the little things that hold you up. :beer: Mike
Any tips for the machine shop I take the manifolds to... I know both have to be right or it is all a giant waste of time... I would prefer not to use two gaskets and have it seal as it should - correctly with one gasket.

If JimC would weigh in on this and there was enough to make a sticky on the topic of manifold / exhaust and intake leaks that would be great.

Continue on.
As per wise advice given to me here- ALWAYS re-torque the manifold bolts after about 12 heat up / cool down cycles.-I was amazed at how much it was necessary.
make sure you do ALL of the gaskets at once
inclding your egr return and downpipe gaskets
theres four circle gaskets and four springs on the moveable sides of the exhaust that cost a pretty penny because felpros kit doesnt come with them and i couldnt find them anywhere but sor and toyota and sors diagram only shows one of each on each side but there are two

also i didnt check much of the other posts but do the intake gaskets first so you can bolt the manifold back together before you take it to hte machine shop so they cna surface it with them bolted together
they also had to spot weld the moveable arms on mine or so they said to keep them from moving but they break the weld when they are done and all is good:cheers:
speaking of spot welding... wouldnt make sense for the machine shop to put them together and then spot weld them to each other so that they can not move before doing the surfacing... The machine shop I have talked to has not given me sufficient confidence to just take them down there and tell them to do the job.

I know this is a STOOPID question but could I spot them together(after torquing them to the motor) and then take them off and bolt them so that they can not skrew them up?
1. You cant weld Aluminium to Cast Iron.

2. The small bolt up against the firewall is a bitch! I like to put that one in first , on reassembly, it seems to save me a lot of grief.

3. Take your time and use good quality (OEM or Fel Pro) gaskets.

4. Have fun.

Dynosoar :zilla:
For the love of pete. Tack the ends of the exhaust manifold on so the monekys doing the resurfacing dont take them off. I had a shop destroy an exhaust and intake manifold of my. I also advise the double gasketing......and putting in the bolt closest to the firewall first...
sorry but... you can weld aluminum to steel:
you just need to pack explosives around the intake to make an atomic bond between dissimilar metals. so after youve bolted the intake back on without a gasket, pack your engine compartment with gunpowder and ignite and presto, no more intake problem. All joking aside, if the intake manifold is machined to a flat surface, the block could still not be true, and the dissimilar metals expand differently with heat, I think the double gasket thing is just one of the quirks of this motor by the sounds of everyone elses feedback, although getting the intake should help too.
I wasnt talking about welding Al to Steel, I was talking about the cast ends that you can take out and wobble when getting machined. YOU CAN tack weld those on so the shop wont mess them up, and then hit is with grinder for a second to get rid of the tack weld......

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