Managing Switches and Accessories (1 Viewer)

[jackhossross]

Hi Everyone,

I am struggling to understand the different options for managing lots of accessories. I see these fancy blue sea "breakers" or boxes (like below) which I think replace individual relays.

Can someone explain to me how folks run lots of accessories and keep things clean? I would love to get rid of my individual relays and have them sit in one "deck" or "breaker board."

Sorry - not an electrician by any means.

Image taken from this awesome LX that sold on BAT: Overland-Modified 2005 Lexus LX470

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Switchpro or VOSwitch, one of those relay blocks goes a long way.

Or you can get real crazy and build one these:

DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

Part 1 - Introduction [IMG] This is Part 1 in a series of tutorials that will show you how to build a Bussmann RTMR fuse/relay block. If you’re not...

www.tacomaworld.com

 

[OregonLC]

I run the sPOD (same as in the upper center of that pic) and it has the advantage of variable current limits for each circuit. No fuses to blow or replace. And you can customize each leg for the wire size and draw. It comes with a auto-reset breaker on its main feed. About as simple as you can make it.

Ideally your solution would be to have a single control cable come into the cabin with everything else managed remotely.

There, of course, could be pages written on how to do this properly. It's one of those things that if not done properly can become a big disappointment - or worse - on the trail.

And... holy cow!!! - that thing sold for $65k on BaT!!!

 

[jackhossross]

I run the sPOD (same as in the upper center of that pic) and it has the advantage of variable current limits for each circuit. No fuses to blow or replace. And you can customize each leg for the wire size and draw. It comes with a auto-reset breaker on its main feed. About as simple as you can make it.

Ideally your solution would be to have a single control cable come into the cabin with everything else managed remotely.

There, of course, could be pages written on how to do this properly. It's one of those things that if not done properly can become a big disappointment - or worse - on the trail.

And... holy cow!!! - that thing sold for $65k on BaT!!!

Not that I expect the same outcome, but when I am making decisions on my truck I frequently pull out my Tread Magazine and that BaT ad to consult the build of that truck as a good baseline of what modifications can be viewed as valuable.

 

[Mike NXP]

Hi Everyone,

I am struggling to understand the different options for managing lots of accessories. I see these fancy blue sea "breakers" or boxes (like below) which I think replace individual relays.

Can someone explain to me how folks run lots of accessories and keep things clean? I would love to get rid of my individual relays and have them sit in one "deck" or "breaker board."

Sorry - not an electrician by any means.

Image taken from this awesome LX that sold on BAT: Overland-Modified 2005 Lexus LX470

Gotta admit that picture looks like a mess. Some people get way to crazy with how to power stuff.

You'll need to first understand how much power you are thinking of pulling then you can make sense of the required hardware. Staying under 100 amps? Don't need to over think it. I ran fused power to my passenger side and hooked up a blue-sea fuse box. The passenger side has a nice boot that can feed wires into the glovebox area. Driver side boot is tight and has a lot of s*** running through it.

Whenever a new light or accesory is added I can just power and ground to the fuse box and move on. Just one clean connection on the battery.


Now if you're running fridges , winches, s*** load of lights, bla bla bla , well then maybe you need something more heavy duty. For a handful of LED's you don't need much.

The other side of things is the switches, if done right you can sneak a bunch into blank spaces and other available areas. @BenCC makes a lot of creations to help with this. The nicest is a Spod in the top console.

I've got my spot lights on a stock switch to the left of the steering wheel. Roof lights are on switches on the rear center console so I can flip em from the front seat or from the back while sleeping.

I had a local shop bend me a piece and I took advantage of existing threaded holes to mount it.

 

[jackhossross]

Gotta admit that picture looks like a mess. Some people get way to crazy with how to power stuff.

You'll need to first understand how much power you are thinking of pulling then you can make sense of the required hardware. Staying under 100 amps? Don't need to over think it. I ran fused power to my passenger side and hooked up a blue-sea fuse box. The passenger side has a nice boot that can feed wires into the glovebox area. Driver side boot is tight and has a lot of s*** running through it.

Whenever a new light or accesory is added I can just power and ground to the fuse box and move on. Just one clean connection on the battery.


Now if you're running fridges , winches, s*** load of lights, bla bla bla , well then maybe you need something more heavy duty. For a handful of LED's you don't need much.

The other side of things is the switches, if done right you can sneak a bunch into blank spaces and other available areas. @BenCC makes a lot of creations to help with this. The nicest is a Spod in the top console.

I've got my spot lights on a stock switch to the left of the steering wheel. Roof lights are on switches on the rear center console so I can flip em from the front seat or from the back while sleeping.

I had a local shop bend me a piece and I took advantage of existing threaded holes to mount it.

View attachment 3216575
View attachment 3216576

Thank you - I am working with Ben. I have his center overhead console switches installed currently and have the change slot single switch with dual USB in the mail on its way.

I honestly thought this image was a pretty solid example. He’s running a fridge, hot water heater, idk how many lights, and a few other things. Looks a hell of a lot higher quality than what I inherited.

 

[Mike NXP]

Thank you - I am working with Ben. I have his center overhead console switches installed currently and have the change slot single switch with dual USB in the mail on its way.

I honestly thought this image was a pretty solid example. He’s running a fridge, hot water heater, idk how many lights, and a few other things. Looks a hell of a lot higher quality than what I inherited.

True, I looked more into the build and it does seem pretty bad ass lol. Dual battery setup and everything... I guess it's just a matter of budget and understanding what your end goals are . That'll help determine the final setup

 

[jackhossross]

You’re right - I need to consider my goals:
Lighting while driving
Lighting while camping
Winch
Filling up tires
Stereo on while camping
Small appliances (laptops, coffee grinder, etc)
Not ever being stranded (my wife is privileged, if we were ever stuck, that would be the end of us camping lol)

 

[snorunr82]

Gotta admit that picture looks like a mess. Some people get way to crazy with how to power stuff.

You'll need to first understand how much power you are thinking of pulling then you can make sense of the required hardware. Staying under 100 amps? Don't need to over think it. I ran fused power to my passenger side and hooked up a blue-sea fuse box. The passenger side has a nice boot that can feed wires into the glovebox area. Driver side boot is tight and has a lot of s*** running through it.

Whenever a new light or accesory is added I can just power and ground to the fuse box and move on. Just one clean connection on the battery.


Now if you're running fridges , winches, s*** load of lights, bla bla bla , well then maybe you need something more heavy duty. For a handful of LED's you don't need much.

The other side of things is the switches, if done right you can sneak a bunch into blank spaces and other available areas. @BenCC makes a lot of creations to help with this. The nicest is a Spod in the top console.

I've got my spot lights on a stock switch to the left of the steering wheel. Roof lights are on switches on the rear center console so I can flip em from the front seat or from the back while sleeping.

I had a local shop bend me a piece and I took advantage of existing threaded holes to mount it.

View attachment 3216575
View attachment 3216576

Gotta admit that picture looks like a mess. Some people get way to crazy with how to power stuff.

You'll need to first understand how much power you are thinking of pulling then you can make sense of the required hardware. Staying under 100 amps? Don't need to over think it. I ran fused power to my passenger side and hooked up a blue-sea fuse box. The passenger side has a nice boot that can feed wires into the glovebox area. Driver side boot is tight and has a lot of s*** running through it.

Whenever a new light or accesory is added I can just power and ground to the fuse box and move on. Just one clean connection on the battery.


Now if you're running fridges , winches, s*** load of lights, bla bla bla , well then maybe you need something more heavy duty. For a handful of LED's you don't need much.

The other side of things is the switches, if done right you can sneak a bunch into blank spaces and other available areas. @BenCC makes a lot of creations to help with this. The nicest is a Spod in the top console.

I've got my spot lights on a stock switch to the left of the steering wheel. Roof lights are on switches on the rear center console so I can flip em from the front seat or from the back while sleeping.

I had a local shop bend me a piece and I took advantage of existing threaded holes to mount it.

View attachment 3216575
View attachment 3216576

@Mike NXP have any pictures of those switches? I’m just diving into adding accessories (LC 07) and want to first figure out what options are available for factory blank locations. Especially the square one to left of steering wheel. I’ll take a look at Ben’s page too. Thanks!

 

[Mike NXP]

@Mike NXP have any pictures of those switches? I’m just diving into adding accessories (LC 07) and want to first figure out what options are available for factory blank locations. Especially the square one to left of steering wheel. I’ll take a look at Ben’s page too. Thanks!

This thing here?
>>BUMPER LIGHTS 8B81O Push switch 12volt Toyota OEM Replacement LED AMBER - https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-8b81o-12volt-toyota-oem-replacement-bumper-lights-led-amber.html

They have a lot of options, that particular one fits in the blank left of the steering wheel on my 02 LC. I have my ARB lights hooked into that switch.


Some of the KC lights come with a small circle switch. I drilled out a little spot in the center console for those.

 

[snorunr82]

The blank I am referring to is where the diff lock dial would be. It’s square not oblong, but I think the hole behind it is circular.

 

[Mike NXP]

Oh gotcha, not sure but that website is probably your best chance. They emailed me back pretty quickly when I had a few questions. Although none of their options seem to list the 100 series.
>> some square options here but they appear to be for the newer models.

Otherwise, just use the rectangle blank, assuming you have a blank one available

 

[snorunr82]

Oh gotcha, not sure but that website is probably your best chance. They emailed me back pretty quickly when I had a few questions. Although none of their options seem to list the 100 series.
>> some square options here but they appear to be for the newer models.

Otherwise, just use the rectangle blank, assuming you have a blank one available

Otherwise, just use the rectangle blank, assuming you have a blank one available

That’s my problem. On the 07 there really aren’t any others except for one near the climate controls and its color matched. Regardless, thanks for the link. Good stuff.