I'm thinking about using these u-joints instead of the high dollar OEMs. Can anyone think of a reason I shouldn't?
MAF U-Joints
MAF U-Joints
Man-a-fre u-joints (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Cj80cruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #2
Maybe I'll just do it and report back on how well they do or don't do. I'm sure they'll last a while.
I think the best non-oem is Spicer... although I'm not sure. When I had my driveshaft resleeved, they said nothing is better than Toyota OEM.
decent price for the maf, if you're installing yourself than it's not much money to try them.
decent price for the maf, if you're installing yourself than it's not much money to try them.
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
Of all the technical opinions that I've read on this website, the one (and maybe only one) consistent OEM vs. anything else opinion that I've encountered is regarding the superiority of the OEM u-joints. For almost anything else you can think of, someone has been willing to defend a non-OEM source. I, therefore, wouldn't go non-OEM for this particular item.
Clutchee
I'm fun sized!
IF a OEM joint has held up this long WHY not go back with them......
Spicer joints are very poor quality IMO. I had a "high quality US made" Spicer joints fail in short order. Never again. OEM joints are expensive, but you get what you pay for. The difference in price is not worth it IMO.
"O.E. quality, replacement U-Joints at a fraction of the cost of the Toyota boxed alternative." says Man-That's-Not-Free. Is this similar to the O.E. quality, replacement Tie Rod ends" that folks complained about some years ago?
Sorry, not interested.
"O.E. quality, replacement U-Joints at a fraction of the cost of the Toyota boxed alternative." says Man-That's-Not-Free. Is this similar to the O.E. quality, replacement Tie Rod ends" that folks complained about some years ago?
Sorry, not interested.
i replaced my front shaft ujoints with those over a year ago. So far so good.
- Thread starter
- #8
I'm not doing any hardcore off-roading. Just a little trail riding and such. Do you still think these would be a bad decision considering my mild use?
tuff to say considering these puppies are spinning every time the truck moves. I realize they might not get stressed as much, but just every day usage puts a good strain on them.
Again, mine haven't busted yet.
now that i think back, i think that two members have had issues with the MAF ujoints. cruiserhead05 i think was one.
I purchased some for the front, and the cap size was just a tad to small. I could put the entire joint together with my hands. Correct P/N etc. Picked some napa one that were nice and appropriate tight. Man-a-fre has that total bs signature required thing that I can't stand, unless there is no other choice I won't be manafreed again.
Buy OEM.
Buy OEM.
- Thread starter
- #13
After all these negative responses about MAF I don't think I'm going that route. I may go with the napa or Oreilly one's though for the front since I'm going to install a part-time kit.
I'm going OEM on these due to the rear DS will be under 100% load while driving.
Anybody know the price for the rear U-joints?
I'm going OEM on these due to the rear DS will be under 100% load while driving.
Anybody know the price for the rear U-joints?
NaterGator
On Gilligan's Island
They are ~$45 each from cdan
At that price, why hassle with it. Buy OEM.
- Thread starter
- #16
You're right.
I'm not going to bother with the MAF since the OEM's are $45 each and I'm only going to do the rear DS if at all since my revelation of ditching the lift and going Ptime first.
The NAPA joints are the EXACT joints MAF carries. They are GMB and made in Japan, one of the only brands I would use other than Koyo (Toyota OEM). The only other non Toyota brands I use are "555" steering parts mainly because they are greaseable and Timken bearings.
As for the GMB joints, they are fine joints to use but I recommend buying from NAPA. The only issue is that NAPA lists a cheaper joint and a more expensive joint, however in BOTH boxes will be identical GMB joints. Just purchase the $18~ish vs. the $30~ish. Not to put much weight in but they do carry a lifetime warrenty vs. buying them with nothing from MAF.
Someone mentioned the caps losely fitting in the flange. This is a sign that the holes have been damaged from not having matching angles on the u-joints, a by-product of lift, castor correction, etc.
As for the GMB joints, they are fine joints to use but I recommend buying from NAPA. The only issue is that NAPA lists a cheaper joint and a more expensive joint, however in BOTH boxes will be identical GMB joints. Just purchase the $18~ish vs. the $30~ish. Not to put much weight in but they do carry a lifetime warrenty vs. buying them with nothing from MAF.
Someone mentioned the caps losely fitting in the flange. This is a sign that the holes have been damaged from not having matching angles on the u-joints, a by-product of lift, castor correction, etc.
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- Thread starter
- #19
Thanks Bear80 this puts all the info I've gotten into a nice package that I can definitely use. Great job explaining and summing everything up.
